Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11825627#post11825627 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by disaster999
well after about 8 days of 1900ppm mg level, the bryopsis really decreased in number as seen in the picture

DSC_0376.jpg

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Jdieck,
I think you are exactly right. That was why I asked the question with the word "confirmed". I believe what I have is bryopsis which look exactly what disaster999 has in his picture above. Do you think so?

144748mini-017__2_.JPG
 
Did you ever get an answer from Samala? That doesn't look like bryopsis to me at all. It looks more fern-like, where bryopsis is feathery.
 
Simon, It is always difficult to confirm over pics with different settings but I woul dsay that if it is not bryopsis it really looks close to it.
 
Marc.
The impression I get is that the feather like apearance was afected when pulling it out and transferred to other container.

Simon. can you take a pic of it underwater and undisturbed?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11849608#post11849608 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Marc.
The impression I get is that the feather like apearance was afected when pulling it out and transferred to other container.

Simon. can you take a pic of it underwater and undisturbed?
Click to expand...

Marc,
I posted the pictures in the macroalgae forum and one mbr (not Samala) there said it was bryopsis.

jdieck, I don't have an underwater camera. I took a few more pictures tonight from outside the tank. Here are a couple of them but I am not sure if you can see well enough to tell.

144748Algae_1.jpg


144748algae_2.jpg
 
Well with my experience with Tech-M is that I don't have any in the main system any longer. I'm seeing some start to creep back into my overflow, however if really dry and brittle feeling and comes out all together with my fingers. I'm thinking that it's just some left overs that washed into my overflow, and is trying to take root again. However, my upgraded skimmer pulled out a lot of nasty stuff when mine all died off, which I really think helped it not return back into my tank.
 
I have a problem with Bryopsis in some spots that just won't go away. I upgraded my skimmer, added a Kent PO4 reactor with Rowaphos, and was much more careful with my maintenance. The Bryopsis is still there, but not healthy looking.

Read this thread and picked up a Mg test and Seachem Reef Mg, which is MgCl2 and MgSO4. My Mg is testing very low, so I suspect the Bryopsis is the culprit.

I hope the Mg will eradicate the Bryopsis. I think it is the last step.

My conjecture is that different people are having different results because a) the algae they have is not Bryopsis or b) the other factors that feed bryopsis (nitrates, PO4, DOC) are not yet under control. Keep in mind that PO4 can test low if there are inorganic phosphates in the system, which do not show in the test. Nitrate and PO4 can both test low if the Bryopsis is using what the tank creates as it creates it.

The only problem I see with running elevated Mg levels is this can precipitate out Carbonate from the system. I don't know at what point that happens, just that it will.

I chose Seachem over Tech M because I don't like adding stuff to the system that I can't test for, other than general water changes. My preference is all.

Hope this works. Good tip and thread
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11850441#post11850441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SimonSKL
Marc,
I posted the pictures in the macroalgae forum and one mbr (not Samala) there said it was bryopsis.

jdieck, I don't have an underwater camera. I took a few more pictures tonight from outside the tank. Here are a couple of them but I am not sure if you can see well enough to tell.
Click to expand...

:lol: I really meant the algae underwater in the tank not the camara. In any case that looks like bryopsis, a sick one at that BTW.
 
Help! my Mg tests have gone crazy! I started adding Tech-M January 26 with 8 cups for my 400 gal. system. Got the Mg level from 1140 to 1680 over a couple weeks. Have added a total of 38 cups of Tech-M. I got an Elos test kit as a check for the Salifert one I was using and the Elos was reading about 100 less than the Salifert. Today the Elos reads 1000 ppm and the Salifert is reading 2300 ppm! I ran both tests twice with the same results. The only thing I can think of on the Elos is that 2 or 3 times I forgot to shake the "A" bottle. The 2300 value from the Salifert test couldn't be right because 38 cups (8990 mL) would only raise the Mg level by 411 which would put my tank at 1551 ppm of Mg. (according to the Tech-M label: 1 mL/gal raises Mg 18.3) Anybody have any experience with both of these tests? or any thoughts on this? btw, my bryopsis (or whatever algae I have) is dying and I've been sucking the nasty, evil stuff out for the past few days.
 
Howdy...

So, I'm one of the success stories. I had a real bryopsis problem for a long while, out of control. I found the thread, and used Tech-M to raise Mg in my tank to 1600. Within days the bryopsis was melting away...I couldn't believe it, and was ecstatic. Over around 10 days I let the Mg drift back down to normal, around 1300, and enjoyed my clean tank.

For a month. Then the bryposis started creeping back in, and I could see it was getting bad again. So once again I raised Mg to 1600, and within days it was melted away.

So now the question is, how long do I leave the level elevated to try to ensure I wipe out bryopsis for good I figured this time I'd leave it elevated for 2 weeks, then let it drift back down, but should that be longer?

I did experience some bleaching of pocis and other minor problems when elevating (but no RTN),so I'd like to get it back to normal as soon as possible, but I also want to make sure it's eradicated this time.

Thoughts?

Arthur
 
I left mine elevated for around 2-3 months. I still get some growing on my return plumbing and on one of my Tunze nano streams, but never on the rocks, corals, sand or glass.

As a side note, I recently purchased a small goniopora frag with a little spot of bryopsis. They scrubbed it for me at the LFS, but I knew that wasn't enough. I put it in my QT for 2 weeks with elevated mag (used Tech M) to make sure the bryopsis was dead. After that, I added the frag to my main tank and so far it hasn't risen from the dead on that frag. That was a few weeks ago. If it does come back, I can easily remove the frag and put it in QT and boost the mag again.
 
IME in order to truly "eradicate" bryopsis you need to make changes to your husbandry/setup so that you eliminate the source of excess nutrients that caused the bloom in the first place.

In my situation, it was the skimmer. I upgraded my skimmer to an ATI bubble master 200 around Christmas time and my tank has been free of bryopsis since. My current Mg level is in 1300 to 1400 range.

Sam
 
The problem I have is that I've gone through just about everything that could be causing excess nutrients, with no luck. I don't overfeed, don't overstock, I have a large skimmer for my sized tank, use RODI water for replacement, etc., etc. You can think of a lot of weird ways for nutrients to get into your tank over the course of a year, none of which seems to have helped all that much...
 
boobookitty,

Do you have enough flow in your tank to keep the detritus suspended in the water column so that you skimmer could remove it?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11987421#post11987421 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by montrealreef
IME in order to truly "eradicate" bryopsis you need to make changes to your husbandry/setup so that you eliminate the source of excess nutrients that caused the bloom in the first place.
Click to expand...

This is contrary to my experience. I battled bryopsis for months. I tried everything to reduce nutrients. Upgraded skimmer, added phosban reactor, massive, frequent water changes. Bryopsis laughed at this and continued to flourish. My nitrates and phosphates always measured 0 during the entire battle.

My nitrates are actually higher now than when I had bryopsis (they're usually around .25ppm according to Salifert now). I don't measure phosphates anymore, as I believe Salifert's test to be useless and I don't want to spend big bucks for a phosphate test that works.
 
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