Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!

I started with live cured rock and Marco rock. No bryopsis for 1y6m, and then after I added a few frags, boom, everywhere.

Update on my bryopsis battle: I borrowed a sea slug and ate 3/4 of the algae, but I think I still have to do Mg treatment, for any leftover algae and swimming spores.

This is why it's so important to quarantine everything, including frags. Who knows what else came on that frag, Bryopsis could have been just the beginning of the problems.
 
This is why it's so important to quarantine everything, including frags. Who knows what else came on that frag, Bryopsis could have been just the beginning of the problems.

For those of us that are unable to have a quarantine tank set up and ready to go, is there a good coral dip that can be done prior to adding new frags? Not just for bryopsis, but for most hitchhikers.

Thanks
 
is there references other than from online suppliers that these things actually feed on bryopsis.


(i remember answering this but dont know what happened to it)

yes there is information on that in the world registry of marine life as well as the encyclopedia of life. those species are one of the few that actually will eat it as well as other nuisance algae.
 
So I started dosing Tech-M monday night. I have been dosing 120 ml each night in a 30 gallon tank. Mg was 1300 monday before first dose, 1410 tuesday, 1470 wednesday, and 1500 tonight. I don't understand why the Mg is increasing in smaller increments despite putting in the same dose of Tech-M each night. I am using a salifert test kit.
 
this is day 8 and my Mg is 1860. my algae is about 90-95% gone. But some of my zoanthids aren't looking as good and look as if they are starting to pull back and loose attachment to the rocks in some areas. I also have a large leather that has shrunk and hasn't open in several days.

When can I start doing water changes? Any suggestions?
 
I'm having a problem with this junk too, and I ordered the Kent's Tech-M to rid the tank of it. However I haven't started dosing yet because I'm worried about something - my Mg levels are already at 1600ppm BEFORE i'm doing water changes. Is there anybody who can tell me why that might be? I'm gonna test every parameter possible to get the bigger-picture but for now what are everyone's thoughts?
 
I had a huge huge issue with Bryopsis literally taking over in a few weeks. I went out, got a gallon of Kent Tech M, dosed and kept Mg over 1400 for a week or two, it just is all gone and hasn't come back. I brought my Mg down to normal levels around 1300 with no ill effects..

Tech M is just amazing for bryopsis.. I also did the same thing in my old 60 cube three years ago with success.
 
Just remember this. If you have Bryopsis throughout your DT, yes Tech M is awesome but, remember that while at 1800 ppm Mg is going to rid your DT of Bryopsis, it will also make some of your corals real ****y at that level and at via normal uptake and WC it's still going to take a long time to return to normal levels. SO, IF it's localized to just 1-2 rocks then perhaps the Hydrogen peroxide would be safer to use.
 
How long do you need to keep your magnesium at 1500-1600? Just until the bryopsis is about gone? Also, after it is gone, obviously you can't do a large water change right? Because it will lower your mg too fast? Or is fine for your mg to suddenly drop back to 1300?
 
How long do you need to keep your magnesium at 1500-1600? Just until the bryopsis is about gone? Also, after it is gone, obviously you can't do a large water change right? Because it will lower your mg too fast? Or is fine for your mg to suddenly drop back to 1300?

I struggled with the tech M working on my bryopsis. Some died but some raged on. It was costly to keep the mag levels up and keep husbandry up to spec in the tank.

I switch to peroxide. I dipped some of the main culprit rocks and then dosed around 1-2ml per 10 gal and after about 2 days saw serious changes. About 4 days and I was 99% free of the bryopsis. I spot treat some of the harder to reach places with a perxide paste I make mixing peroxide and baking soda.
 
Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!

Is this bryopsis?

8fdda457751d024c6a9b5ce75d8e8b62.jpg
667483de3685d59972921ea5127c9fc4.jpg



This is a ten gallon tank I can remove and nuke if needed. What is best way to nuke a rock? One other question Salifert test only reads to 1500 how are people testing mag levels higher than that?
 
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Is this bryopsis?

8fdda457751d024c6a9b5ce75d8e8b62.jpg
667483de3685d59972921ea5127c9fc4.jpg



This is a ten gallon tank I can remove and nuke if needed. What is best way to nuke a rock? One other question Salifert test only reads to 1500 how are people testing mag levels higher than that?



Look up treating with flucanazole. Tons of recent success stories.
 
Teck m use to work for me but now find it a waste of money. Kept mine at 1800 for 3 months with zero effect on bryopsis. Used fluconazole and its 95% gone in 4 days.
 
9 days have gone by I am not seeing the results I have sen or read in this post. A few things that might have impacted my non results. I have a 10 gallon tank I assumed my actual water volume was about 6 gallons. I dosed for that which was a portion of a 200 mg capsule. I do not have a gram measuring tool so I eyeballed 150mg out of 200 mg. I also did not remove my carbon sponge or chemipure bag and also did not change my lighting at all. Going to wait 10 more days then try it again.
 
I tried the Tech M method, but not success, I raised the mg to 2000 using tech m already

kent tech m has changed the formula and no longer works. It is believed it was not the elevated magnesium but some other ingredient that killed bryopsis. see the newest and appears to be the best method to eradicate bryopsis ... i will post the thread
 
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