Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!

I have battled bryopsis, and WON using Seachem Advantage Magnesium.
I also changed my salt to one with a higher mag level to start with. There are many choices with higher than 1100 mg. I went with Tropic Marin which reads out at 1350mg and comes in a nice 300 gallon bag.
 
ive reached ~1700ppm mag and it looks like its started to flake off and receed. Its not a dramatic change but could be the start. Is 1700 a high enough level? or should I go higher? what is everyone elevating their mag to?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13405256#post13405256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stevedola
ive reached ~1700ppm mag and it looks like its started to flake off and receed. Its not a dramatic change but could be the start. Is 1700 a high enough level? or should I go higher? what is everyone elevating their mag to?
That's high enough. Just keep it there and watch it go away.
 
i have noticed corals showing better coloration from the increased mag levels...esp. zoas. colors are popping. should I be concerned?
 
I am just wondering if you could run activated carbon when you are dosing?

Just got my gallon of Tech M and will kill me some bryopsis.

Fingers crossed, these stuff is a *****!!
 
after reading this thread and not being able to find tech m I was instructed to use magnesion-p made by bright well aquatics.
After bumping my Ma up from 1350 to 1800 my bryopsis is completely gone 4.5 days.
The ingredients to bright wells is Ma sulfate and Ma chloride,= Window deicer
I had tufts of bryopsis growing on a couple of rocks after introducing it to my 145 gallon system from a frag plug I thought I cleaned off good enough.
My levels have never been off, always on target (salifert test and pinpoint mont). I did notice that I never had any out breaks with HA or bryopsis ever. But the bryopsis did not have a problem taking over especially on my egg crate frag racks spreading like fire onto my frag plugs.
My only input really is I think who ever said the window deicer is right. it’s a mix of both sulfate and chloride mixed with purified water.
Jm2c hope this helps.
 
Okay, I hate to be one of THOSE people but!!! 38 pages geesshh. I tried scanning to see if the works for derbesia with no luck. With that being said...

Does the increase of Mag help with derbesia?
 
Has anyone tried a prolonged blackout (48-72 Hrs no lights) period in conjunction with elevated MG (1600-2000ppm) to eliminate bryopsis?

Thanks!

-TDF
 
Why is everyone concluding that Mg is the key here. It seems obvious that elevated levels of sulfate is the key here. As Copper(II) Sulfate is a well known herbicide used to kill algae. The question is is there a way to safely raise sulfate levels to abnormally high levels without raising other important elements like Mg. etc. If we could push sulfate even higher maybe we could kill other bastard nuisance algae.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14463841#post14463841 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by barderer
Why is everyone concluding that Mg is the key here. It seems obvious that elevated levels of sulfate is the key here. As Copper(II) Sulfate is a well known herbicide used to kill algae. The question is is there a way to safely raise sulfate levels to abnormally high levels without raising other important elements like Mg. etc. If we could push sulfate even higher maybe we could kill other bastard nuisance algae.

No one has concluded that Mg is the key here. Not all Mg supplements work equally well. In fact, some don't appear to work at all. Although this point may have gotten a little lost, the key is Kent Tech M. Most people have been speculating that it is some sort of contaminant or by-product in the supplement that kills bryopsis, but no one really knows for sure what exactly it is.

Your idea is interesting, but I'm curious how you came to that conclusion. How do you know it is the sulfate ion and not the copper ion that acts as the herbicide? I'm not a chemist, nor do I know anything about the mechanisms of herbicides so I have no idea one way or the other.

Many people have used copper sulfate to treat disease in their tanks. I wonder if anyone ever saw any impact on their algae after treatment. I haven't heard any reports of this, so I am a bit skeptical, but who knows.... it would be a rather simple experiment to test your idea.
 
Yeah it probably is the copper. I just read through the whole thread and noticed the only success stories were based on ones where Mg sulfate was used(Kent or straight epsom salts) and the ones using Mg chloride had no effect. So it seems like the common element is sulfate. Especially since you are adding much more sulfate that Mg.
 
Perhaps it's feeding some sulfur-consuming bacteria? I remember there were some threads about sulfur based denitrators...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14465950#post14465950 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by barderer
I just read through the whole thread and noticed the only success stories were based on ones where Mg sulfate was used(Kent or straight epsom salts) and the ones using Mg chloride had no effect. So it seems like the common element is sulfate.

Ahh I see. Thats an interesting observation, and now I follow your reasoning. It would definitely be interesting to test. Maybe a chemist who knows more about the chemical nature of sulfate could chime in.
 
I'm glad we're all in the spirit of sharing, the OP could have just mixed up some 'bryop-rite' and sold it for money to unsuspecting reefers*, **

* until some reefers test it and find out it's actually just magnesium...
** but that won't stop people still buying it :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14475200#post14475200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TNTREEF
Does it have to be Tech M or will crystal type Mg like Seachem work?

Is it Mg sulfate or Mg chloride?
 
I've had my Mg above 1600 for 3 months via Tech-M.
It's been above 1800 for 2 1/2 months.
It was at 1960 for a few weeks.

During that time, it stunted its growth, but didn't kill a hair on its head.

Now that I'm letting the Mg level drop, it's flourishing again.

Didn't work for me. . .
 
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