Finally beginning... 280G project

[ekovalsky]

kelhuffman, my wife agrees with you and suggested leaving the niche rear drywall and studs intact. Extra width will come from relocating the external overflow and having the tank protrude from the niche into the room a bit.

An updated diagram attached is as .pdf file. New dimensions are 73L x 30W x 27H. External overflow off right side panel has 24 linear inches and bottom holes for 1-1/2" and 1" Spears Sch80 bulkheads (for 1-1/2" Durso standpipe and 1" emergency/secondary drain, respectively).

I'll probably bag one of the closed loops with a group of Vortech pumps. The other I'll keep, drain to Dart to 1/2HP Tradewinds chiller (1-1/2" ins and outs) to OM 4-way back to tank. This will help generate chaotic flow, and also maximize efficiency of the chiller by pulling water from the bottom of the tank. Another Dart will be used on the sump drain, with a ball valve manifold to distribute water to the various reactors and of course the sump returns. I'll likely use a pair of Wavyseas on the sump returns to create additional random flow.

 

[kelhuffman]

Now you're talking! Looks good! Question: what's the space on the left side for? Is that clearance for plumbing/vortech motors? I qualify this statement by saying I have never had a closed loop system and therefore never used a OM 4 way or vortech pumps, but I'm a huge Tunze fan because of their reliability, serviceablity and flexibility. In my setup I built two boxes on each side of my external overflow to hide Streams. (Hence the smaller box). Two hidden 6200's push water lengthwise. I screwed up by underestimating how much water they draw as I had intended on running 4 streams in these boxes. But the intake hole is too small to draw in enough water for that. Regardless, another consideration is shrinking your overflow by 4" and allowing for a box for a hidden tunze or two. You could do the same thing on the other side if there's room.

Here's some pics of mine if it helps. the last pic on page one shows the holes for the tunzes (there was only one tunze at that point).

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=912127&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

 

[ekovalsky]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8986904#post8986904 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kelhuffman
Now you're talking! Looks good! Question: what's the space on the left side for? Is that clearance for plumbing/vortech motors? I qualify this statement by saying I have never had a closed loop system and therefore never used a OM 4 way or vortech pumps, but I'm a huge Tunze fan because of their reliability, serviceablity and flexibility. In my setup I built two boxes on each side of my external overflow to hide Streams. (Hence the smaller box). Two hidden 6200's push water lengthwise. I screwed up by underestimating how much water they draw as I had intended on running 4 streams in these boxes. But the intake hole is too small to draw in enough water for that. Regardless, another consideration is shrinking your overflow by 4" and allowing for a box for a hidden tunze or two. You could do the same thing on the other side if there's room.

Here's some pics of mine if it helps. the last pic on page one shows the holes for the tunzes (there was only one tunze at that point).

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=912127&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

I really love your setup. Integration of the tank with the cabinetry and bar is superb. Lighting rack is very well done too.

As currently drawn I have 2-3/4" space between the left side of the tank and the existing niche wall. Not enough for any plumbing, but perfect for a pair of Vortech pumps, with at least one backup battery for them. Tank is 73" length since there was some extra room, but if there are significant savings by dropping to the standard 72" length I would do that.

That left niche wall would be very easy to remove as the studs are only there to support the drywall. So I certainly could create an internal or external compartment on the left side to hold 2-4 Tunze streams. It could also potentially contain closed loop system ducts, utilizing an underflow to pull water from a few inches below the surface and conduits to bring closed loop return to a manifold atop the perimeter brace. This would obviate the need for drilling the bottom. With a PVC bottom and the Hayward heavy duty bulkheads, having five holes on the bottom doesn't worry me much. That said, if one ever started to leak it would be a disaster!

Main reason I was leaning towards the Vortech pumps is that the electricity and heat are kept out of the water. Years ago I had a cheap powerhead (not a Tunze) short out and wreak havoc on the tank. So one of my goals was no powerheads in the tank. But I know it isn't fair to put a Tunze stream into the same category as a powerhead.

It would be great to get some serious flow coming from the right side of the tank. Probably I should either leave room for another Vortech around the overflow box, or create a separate chamber in the overflow to hold at least a single Tunze stream. If I decide to do the latter... 4"w x 5" deep with 2-1/2" holes for input and output ?

Thanks!

 

[kelhuffman]

Thanks! It turned out pretty well considering who designed and built it.

I hear your point on keeping the motors out. I haven't had any issue with heat or failure from a tunze pump but I've had other powerheads give me a nice shock over the years. The tunzes don't add measurable heat either in a tank of this size. I ran two on my 120G and didn't have an issue. I don't know if this is the case anymore, but I read about vortech issues with the wet and dry connection. I assume all that is sorted out now. The downsize to the tunzes is simply their size, but if one builds a box to hide them, then they rock because nothing protrudes in the tank at all (vortech still shows the impellor mechanism though I guess they could be hidden by a internal box too). The 7095 controller that runs the tunzes is beyond compare to anything out there.

If you do want to factor in Tunzes then yes, your box dimensions are correct. You need the room to slide the pump down the box and then push its output nozzle into the hole. then something to hold it in place which in my case is a piece of spa flex tube. Got that idea from someone else online. The magnet holders won't work in this application.

 

[jacmyoung]

Hey kelhuffman, I just asked you if there is any update on your thread, been a while since your last pictures. I like your Tunze box camouflage, but your whole setup is by far one of the best looking.

I have a feeling once ekovalsky is done with his I will be able to see another one of the best. I am sucker for built-in reef setups that flow with the custom interior design. For that reason I had concern about the protruding tank feature since it may break the flow of the walkway. Though I can see the TV cabinetry also has a protruding element so it should work.

 

[ekovalsky]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8992197#post8992197 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung
Hey kelhuffman, I just asked you if there is any update on your thread, been a while since your last pictures. I like your Tunze box camouflage, but your whole setup is by far one of the best looking.

I have a feeling once ekovalsky is done with his I will be able to see another one of the best. I am sucker for built-in reef setups that flow with the custom interior design. For that reason I had concern about the protruding tank feature since it may break the flow of the walkway. Though I can see the TV cabinetry also has a protruding element so it should work.

You echo my concern, which is why I originally was going to get the desired width by digging into the back of the niche. But even with the skin applied, the tank installation will not protude past the edge of the archway to the vestibule to the left of the tank area. She thinks that by leading the millwork to the drywall at an angle will work well. Hopefully she's right!

I want to pull up the rug and lay stone to connect the archway to the vestible on the left with the service hallway on the right side of the tank. The service hall accesses the laundry room, pantry, and future tank equipment closet on its way to the secondary entrance opening into the garage and kitchen. My wife doesn't think this will look good, preferring to leave it all carpet, but I really don't want carpet right next to the tank for obvious reasons. When the kids are older we plan on replacing the carpet with hardwood but this is years away.

 

[kelhuffman]

jacmyoung, thanks. I'll have to do an update soon but now that its done I'm just sitting around waiting for things to grow! Back to the tank at hand, the protruding tank will work with a little forethought and I suggested it because you had that archway space. And you don't want carpet near the tank but the good news is its always replaceable once it soils accidentally on purpose. "See honey, the carpet looks like crap after a week!" Time for tile!