finally beginning my 480g 5'x5'x30" SPS Reef Tank
- Thread starter ReefingBuddha
- Start date
ReefingBuddha
New member
adam82 - I'm using sketchup from Google.com. Its completely free and fairly easy to use.
jnarowe - Good point, thats been one of the reasons why its hard to decide on one setup. The reason why I am leaning towards the second option is that it keeps the pumps away from the door, obviously cutting down on noise. The second option would also put almost all the plumbing, ballvalves, and pumps in one area so that its all easily accesible. I'm still working on the idea, thanks for the input, please let me know if you have any other ideas.
jnarowe - Good point, thats been one of the reasons why its hard to decide on one setup. The reason why I am leaning towards the second option is that it keeps the pumps away from the door, obviously cutting down on noise. The second option would also put almost all the plumbing, ballvalves, and pumps in one area so that its all easily accesible. I'm still working on the idea, thanks for the input, please let me know if you have any other ideas.
jnarowe
New member
Seems to be about the same footprint, but I am wondering about the water reservoir. I would not keep it outside just for algal reasons, but they do take up a lot of space. I am trying to get a 200g one into my tank room, and it won't be easy.
As far as noise goes, there's a lot you can do like isolate the pumps with rubber mounts, use flexible PVC, and a weatherized exterior door. I went even further and installed a second 2" deep wall around my tank room with the studs offset from the viewing room studs, so that the inside sheetrock is not mechanically attached to the outside sheetrock. I also foamed all switches, outlets etc. because they leak a lot of noise.
My tank room is quite noisy running a Hammerhead, an Alita 100, various other pumps, 1000W ballasts, etc. and you cannot hear it from the viewing room at all. This is an important subject so feel free to PM me for further discussion.
As far as noise goes, there's a lot you can do like isolate the pumps with rubber mounts, use flexible PVC, and a weatherized exterior door. I went even further and installed a second 2" deep wall around my tank room with the studs offset from the viewing room studs, so that the inside sheetrock is not mechanically attached to the outside sheetrock. I also foamed all switches, outlets etc. because they leak a lot of noise.
My tank room is quite noisy running a Hammerhead, an Alita 100, various other pumps, 1000W ballasts, etc. and you cannot hear it from the viewing room at all. This is an important subject so feel free to PM me for further discussion.
ReefingBuddha
New member
jnarowe - the footprint is the same but the orientation of the plumbing would be significantly different. The difference in sound is also important and I will definetely look into the options you have introduced to me. I was definetly planning on putting a rubber mat under the pumps to damped noise and vibrations allong with flex line.
Thank you for the extensive advice.
Thank you for the extensive advice.
ReefingBuddha
New member
Does anyone know about the quality of the wavysea product? I gather it is basically the same thing as a seaswirl but you can control the speed and roation. If anyone has any experience with these units please let me know.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
You're motivating me to get off of my *** and actually work on my fish room. 
Very nice work on the drawings too. How long do you think it took you to do all that? Im assuming you took actual measurements and everything is to scale? It certainly looks that way.
Ive been playing with SketchUp all night and I really like it. It certainly beats the old AutoCAD version 14 Ive got from the early 90's. :lol:
Very nice work on the drawings too. How long do you think it took you to do all that? Im assuming you took actual measurements and everything is to scale? It certainly looks that way.
Ive been playing with SketchUp all night and I really like it. It certainly beats the old AutoCAD version 14 Ive got from the early 90's. :lol:
ReefingBuddha
New member
Thanks, the sketchup work is pretty easy and a lot of stuff can be found online. I found the skimmer and calcium reactors online and modified them to the same size as my equipment. The plumbing diagram was done over a couple of nights brainstorming different options. I ahve been working on my setup for a few months now so I could say exactly how much time I spent on Sketchup thought it was a good way to experiment with ideas. Yes everything is to scale, its a pretty easy program to work with once you get it down. Have fun playing with it.
strictlySPS
New member
WOW....its going to be a sweet setup!! SUBSCRIBED!
tentacles
New member
Looks like it will be very nice. This member has a similar size tank, if I remember correctly, he actually ended up making it a little bigger. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=8592084#post8592084
ReefingBuddha
New member
Thanks for that link, it was definetely helpful to see someone else who is trying to tackle the same flow problems that I am. With a large square tank water flow really becomes a problem. I have spent a lot of time researching flow and think I've come up with a good combination of equipment to handle some serious turnover.
Here is some updated rockwork pictures, I have decided to go with a LR bridge to span the canyon, I want to put acro plugs on each side and have them grow up and around the LR.
The red and blue pieces in the rockwork are tunze deco rocks hiding tunze streams. The idea for the rockwork is that there is a lot of open area within the rocks and below the rocks. They will be supported on 2 in" acrylic stands attached to the bottom glass panel
I like this look alot. There will be approximately 8 returns coming up through the live rock on 2 4way OM closed loop systems. Each of these returns are coming through the bottom of the tank and will have a few very small holes drilled in them just as they clear the glass to blast detrius out from under the rocks. The area underneath the rock supports and rock won't be bare glass but a thin layer of foam so that it will look more natural, I'm assuming sand won't be sticking around for very long down there due to the water movement.
Here is some updated rockwork pictures, I have decided to go with a LR bridge to span the canyon, I want to put acro plugs on each side and have them grow up and around the LR.
The red and blue pieces in the rockwork are tunze deco rocks hiding tunze streams. The idea for the rockwork is that there is a lot of open area within the rocks and below the rocks. They will be supported on 2 in" acrylic stands attached to the bottom glass panel
I like this look alot. There will be approximately 8 returns coming up through the live rock on 2 4way OM closed loop systems. Each of these returns are coming through the bottom of the tank and will have a few very small holes drilled in them just as they clear the glass to blast detrius out from under the rocks. The area underneath the rock supports and rock won't be bare glass but a thin layer of foam so that it will look more natural, I'm assuming sand won't be sticking around for very long down there due to the water movement.
ReefingBuddha
New member
I'm looking forward to using their equipment and hassling their customer service. The quality of the product is easily apparent in the craftmenship and design. Their customer service is also great thus far. Thanks for your interest
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Very Nice!
Couple of questions though.
How do you plan on getting the Streams out for maintenance?
Also, are the returns from the bottom coming from your sump or your CLs only? If they are coming from your sump, how will you be breaking the siphon?
Couple of questions though.
How do you plan on getting the Streams out for maintenance?
Also, are the returns from the bottom coming from your sump or your CLs only? If they are coming from your sump, how will you be breaking the siphon?
ReefingBuddha
New member
No worries. I like questions, makes me think through stuff and hopefully catch something I haven't thought of yet.
The streams will be positioned in such a way that the weight of the rocks around it will be resting completely on the deco rocks, I do this in my 120 now and I can remove the tunze stream without removing the deco rock that houses it. Its a little work but everything holds steady as long as the area is left open enough.
The bottom returns are for the 2 closed loop systems. One will have a OM 4 way and the other a OM 2 way, probably. The main returns from the sump are being fed to 4 1" seaswirls or 4 1" wavyseas depending on which option I end up going with. These will be positioned above the tank in each of the 4 corners. Don't know much about either but I definetly want one of the two.
The streams will be positioned in such a way that the weight of the rocks around it will be resting completely on the deco rocks, I do this in my 120 now and I can remove the tunze stream without removing the deco rock that houses it. Its a little work but everything holds steady as long as the area is left open enough.
The bottom returns are for the 2 closed loop systems. One will have a OM 4 way and the other a OM 2 way, probably. The main returns from the sump are being fed to 4 1" seaswirls or 4 1" wavyseas depending on which option I end up going with. These will be positioned above the tank in each of the 4 corners. Don't know much about either but I definetly want one of the two.
ReefingBuddha
New member
for those who care, I have estimated my turnover rate at 49 to 51 times per hour with all pumps running full tilt, except for the tunze's on a controller. Now I know that my SPS colonies will be happy. This takes into account head loss to the best of my ability.
My equipment will be 1 dart, 1 barracuda, 1 hammerhead, 2 tunze 6100 streams at 100%, 2 tunze 6100 streams at 50%. I am hoping to add penductors where ever possible to help with the flow that gets cut down by coral growth over time.
My equipment will be 1 dart, 1 barracuda, 1 hammerhead, 2 tunze 6100 streams at 100%, 2 tunze 6100 streams at 50%. I am hoping to add penductors where ever possible to help with the flow that gets cut down by coral growth over time.
ReefingBuddha
New member
Here are some update picture on my lights. Just recieved my entire order from Seas in the City. The Solaris lights are awesome so far, I have already set up one of the 60" on my 120g, will post some pictures later to show the difference between MH and the LED lights.
3x 60" H4 SOLARIS fixtures in boxes with ballasts (the 4th is already on my old tank)
1x 24" H4 SOLARIS ... blah blah blah
24" Fixture opened
Close up Shot
3x 60" H4 SOLARIS fixtures in boxes with ballasts (the 4th is already on my old tank)
1x 24" H4 SOLARIS ... blah blah blah
24" Fixture opened
Close up Shot
ReefingBuddha
New member
Filtration tanks should be coming in today and I'm finalizing my sump room designs and putting in the order for my stands today. So hopefully plumbing will begin this weekend.
I think I'm going with steel frames coated in a truck bed liner rather then powder coated. My builder tells me this is a better option, a opinions on this out there. Let me know.
I think I'm going with steel frames coated in a truck bed liner rather then powder coated. My builder tells me this is a better option, a opinions on this out there. Let me know.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Who is building your tanks? (Did you already say?)
As for the truck bed liner, the only thing I would not like about that is the fact that it has a rough texture. Sure, its probably more durable, but it will be very rough and will rub you raw if you rub it the wrong way.
Is he spraying it or subbing it out? Either way, he probably prefers the bed liner because he wont have to grind the welds on your frame as much as he would if he powder coats it.
I powder coated an aluminum stand and I love it. You will dent the metal before you crack the powder coating. The stuff is truly unbelievable.
So.... my opinion is to Powder Coat the stand. I think you will be A LOT happier in the long run. Just my opinion.
Before
After
I can take a close up if you want but I dont know how well it will do the finish justice.
As for the truck bed liner, the only thing I would not like about that is the fact that it has a rough texture. Sure, its probably more durable, but it will be very rough and will rub you raw if you rub it the wrong way.
Is he spraying it or subbing it out? Either way, he probably prefers the bed liner because he wont have to grind the welds on your frame as much as he would if he powder coats it.
I powder coated an aluminum stand and I love it. You will dent the metal before you crack the powder coating. The stuff is truly unbelievable.
So.... my opinion is to Powder Coat the stand. I think you will be A LOT happier in the long run. Just my opinion.
Before
After
I can take a close up if you want but I dont know how well it will do the finish justice.
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