Finishing Hypo..

BUXI08

New member
i have a hipo tang in my q.t in hypo since 3 weeks...and it is still owsomely feeding and petroling..seems that there is no problem with it...now i want to take it out and wana introduce in D.t...but i dont know the correct procedure to finish hypo..as the q.t is permenant.How to increase the Sg? and etc etc...Want your guyz suggestions!
 
is this a newly purchased fish or a fish that had apparent ich?

what size tank?

i would make up plenty of 1.025-1.030 water and replace about 20% of the QT water each day, not to exceed an increase of .003 per day.
 
What geaux said. If it is a new fish, start putting in tank water to acclimate, then into the display. If it was a sick fish, the same. If it was a sick fish with ich, do your water changes and wait for the color to return.
 
it is a new fish in the 45 gal q.t...i dnt saw ich on it but as a precaution i put it in the hypo..but i didnt found any ich or disease...still after 3 weeks..
 
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45 gallons is not a lot of water, so be careful as suggested before, to not exceed .003 raise per day. You want to make sure you have a calibrated / reliable refractometer to measure as you go back up. 6-7 days to hit your target salinity is very reasonable....no need to rush. Fish osmoregulate (drink water), it is very easy to do in a hyposaline system. Raising too fast is very stressful / dangerous, take your time.

SV
 
When you say hypo did you bring salinity down to .009 and hold it there for the full life cycle of ich ? I would not go Hypo unless the fish had ich.Its stressfull and risky.Like mentioned bring back slowly . I actually use a 10 gal because its easier to raise and lower salinity in and requires less waste water.:reading:Also if a fish does have ich you want to lower the water temp to help it breath.Ich gets in its gills and cooler water holds more o2
 
When you say hypo did you bring salinity down to .009 and hold it there for the full life cycle of ich ? I would not go Hypo unless the fish had ich.Its stressfull and risky.Like mentioned bring back slowly . I actually use a 10 gal because its easier to raise and lower salinity in and requires less waste water.:reading:Also if a fish does have ich you want to lower the water temp to help it breath.Ich gets in its gills and cooler water holds more o2

I beg to differ on stressful and risky. It seems to be better than other harsh medications.

"When the salinity is maintained at the proper level, these ectoparasites or eliminated but the fish they were infesting are fine."
"Hyposalinity or OST is therefore my treatment of choice whenever there is an outbreak Cryptocaryon, trematodes, or protozoan parasites in a community tank. Not only does it destroy such parasites in the aquarium water and on the bodies of their hosts, hyposalinity also helps parasite-ridden fish avoid dehydration and save their strength by reducing osmotic pressure and making it easier for them to osmoregulate. Because the seawater they live in is far saltier than their blood and internal body fluids, marine fish are constantly losing water by diffusion through their gills and the surface of their skin, as well as in their urine. The mucus layer or slime coat of the fish helps waterproof the skin and reduces the amount of water that can diffuse through its surface (Kollman, 1998). However, when the skin is compromised by abrasions or attacked by parasites such as Costia, Cryptocaryon, Cryptobia, Amyloodinium, Brooklynella, Epistylus and the like, this protective barrier is damaged and water is lost at an increasing rate (Kollman, 1998). The affected fish can easily become dehydrated as a result, further debilitating them. "

Here...read the article:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I4/hyposalinity/OST.htm


I plan to just add regular salted water(1.026) when I top off my QT from evaporation. Will only be adding a little bit at a time and the fish can adjust that way.
 
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