(First Reef Tank Ever) **** 600gal Display **** 1300gal System

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12033568#post12033568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbui2
tbone im always around :D. i have 7" sohal, 4" purple and 5" dussumier in my 2nd fuge display. no matter how much i feed them the dussumier always get pimp. been in there since Oct.

old95er - http://spectrapure.com/manuals/LiterMeter3f.pdf
scroll down to page 9
here's how mine setup its pretty simple: removed water from beginning of sump and return back to clean section. sorry but i cant help your sump design. currently continuos 8gal daily water change.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bart. Is yours a top off or a water change? the litre meter usually is used to top off evaporated water.

If it is a top off, then I have that covered using a Poseidon system, if it is a water change, then I would need to understand the method better.

Currently I drain 20 gallons of water from my system every month and replace it with 20 gallons of new salt water. That is what is understood as a water change (by me)
 
tbone and papa try few pages back :D

old95er - for my top off i use spectrapure ultra-precise level controller as this is separate from my LM3. pump A on LM3 will be controlling my kalk reactor and pump B & C are my continuous water change module. there are 1000's different ways to change water, you have to chose which method will be easy for you for that particular system.
 
OK thanks.

When you change water, do you just take water out of your 180gal and replace it? OR is it automated in some way. . .thanks for your patience.
 
no problems at all as i am learning something new everyday myself, the LM3 draws fresh salt water from 180gal tank. 4 maxi-jet mods are used to mixed for 2 straight days then 2 maxi-jets are on at all times to keep saltwater circulated. new mix each month with red sea coral pro salt

what's old95er, type of classic car or age :D?
 
it's age when i am around teenagers and I feel 95! LOL. . .it's an old nickname from college. . .

so why have the bulkheads on the back of the 180 and have it plumbed to the main sump?

where does the LM3 put the fresh salt?

I guess I am totally confused about your setup. . .it is awesome though. . .

BTW, do you own the car audio/video store?

I just put in an Alpine digital theater amp and head in my wrangler. . .I love the way I can tweak each channel a dozen ways. . .
 
its all plumb into main sump as i turn some ball valve for water change. this was the idea in the beginning then discovered LM3 for continuous water change after the setup was done so changing it around a bit. its confusing to me too :D . i owned custom car audio store and Alpine is the main choice for quality equipment.
 
here I'll give it a shot old95er. I think this is how it works.

The 180 is plumbed to do a total 180g water change if necessary directly into the main sump but it is not used this way in normal operation. Once a month bart refills it with RO/DI water and gets the right salinity by adding salt. The maxijets mix the water and keep it moving for the coming month and he doesn't have to mess with it anymore. The LM3, which I'm assuming has a line drawing water from the beginning of the sump and dumping to a drain and another line drawing from the water change tank and dumping in the sump. In this way he can draw 8g out of the beginning of his sump to the drain while either at the same time or immediately afterwards drawing 8g out of the water change tank back into the sump. So he can do a mini water change once a day with no added effort.

In theory this would keep the changes made to the tank at a minimum and help curb some of the negative effects of a larger monthly water change to your livestock

And BAM! stonehenge explained... at least I think that's how it works and I hope that helps clear it up for you. There are a 1000 ways to set it up and tweak it but the concept is pretty straight forward. Hope that helps clear up any confusion.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12046847#post12046847 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thirschmann
here I'll give it a shot old95er. I think this is how it works.

The 180 is plumbed to do a total 180g water change if necessary directly into the main sump but it is not used this way in normal operation. Once a month bart refills it with RO/DI water and gets the right salinity by adding salt. The maxijets mix the water and keep it moving for the coming month and he doesn't have to mess with it anymore. The LM3, which I'm assuming has a line drawing water from the beginning of the sump and dumping to a drain and another line drawing from the water change tank and dumping in the sump. In this way he can draw 8g out of the beginning of his sump to the drain while either at the same time or immediately afterwards drawing 8g out of the water change tank back into the sump. So he can do a mini water change once a day with no added effort.

In theory this would keep the changes made to the tank at a minimum and help curb some of the negative effects of a larger monthly water change to your livestock

And BAM! stonehenge explained... at least I think that's how it works and I hope that helps clear it up for you. There are a 1000 ways to set it up and tweak it but the concept is pretty straight forward. Hope that helps clear up any confusion.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure that I would agree. Without having seen Bart's tank in person, it is really hard to say, but it sounds more like a top off with mixed saltwater to me. If it was for water changes, it would seem to me that you would need to be draining as much tank water as you are adding with new mixed salt water. I haven't read or seen where he has water going from the tank down the drain?
 
seems to make sense, thirschmann. . .I think I am hjsut going to plumb in a large reservoir of water, in line between the overflow and the first sump compartment. This will hold 50 gallons of water, so that I can draw off 25 and then refill with fresh 25 gallons of salt. Then I wont change the level in the display, and I will increase total system volume from 136 to 186.

the question then is what type of container. . .
 
Goodwin - I believe he has a top off as well and uses the LM3 just for this kind of water changes. Its unconventional but I looked into the same system myself and am still considering it. I think he said he was drawing out and replacing the 8g, but of course I could be wrong. I'm sure he will chime in at some point and set us right.


Well actually older95er you don't need a separate compartment and the level in your display will remain unchanged regardless of the level in your sump as long as the pump for your sump is still pushing water, and then if it isn't your display level will only drop to the overflow height. For example I usually run my sumps (I say usually because I could not do it on my current tank) so that there is enough extra water volume I can remove without affecting any of the pumps in the sump. This way I can remove and replace water without affecting the function of the system.

As far as containers are concerned aquatic eco sells some great containers but you could probably just make a extra acrylic sump yourself fairly easily or I think you can use any food safe plastic container.

Extra water volume is always a plus. While your at it you might as well add a 100g extra gallons. And while your doing that, you might as well upgrade your tank. There you go, next upgrade already justified. Your welcome :D
 
your right Tom and no problem at all as we're all learning here. there's nothing special with my system. i have tons of plumbing due to 6 pumps, 5 tanks, 2 OM 4way, skimmer, chiller and reactor. of course nobody will know how my system operates unless i walk them through it with details, even my friends stop asking me where are the pvc pipes goes :D . its pretty simple as water is pull from one placed and overflows to sump and etc.

auto top-off has dedicated pump from spectra pure call ultra-precise level controller. currently evap. 4-5 gal daily, 200gal RO/DI tank w/spectra pure maxcap RO 180 unit

LM3 is pretty simple
pump A: this will be use to control kalk reactor

pump b: two-way water exchange module, removed water from beginning of sump and into main sewer drain

pump c: remote pump module, draw new saltwater made from 180gal tank, i went with glass tank b/c of maintenance and space

http://spectrapure.com/manuals/LiterMeter3f.pdf
page 9 will give you details info on how continuous water change
 
Nano, after they're frozen overnight i vacuum sealed so no freezer burn occurs. for all the fishes i have each quart bag about 3/4" thick will last me a month feeding 3 times daily.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12051444#post12051444 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cbui2
your right Tom and no problem at all as we're all learning here. there's nothing special with my system. i have tons of plumbing due to 6 pumps, 5 tanks, 2 OM 4way, skimmer, chiller and reactor. of course nobody will know how my system operates unless i walk them through it with details, even my friends stop asking me where are the pvc pipes goes :D . its pretty simple as water is pull from one placed and overflows to sump and etc.

auto top-off has dedicated pump from spectra pure call ultra-precise level controller. currently evap. 4-5 gal daily, 200gal RO/DI tank w/spectra pure maxcap RO 180 unit

LM3 is pretty simple
pump A: this will be use to control kalk reactor

pump b: two-way water exchange module, removed water from beginning of sump and into main sewer drain

pump c: remote pump module, draw new saltwater made from 180gal tank, i went with glass tank b/c of maintenance and space

http://spectrapure.com/manuals/LiterMeter3f.pdf
page 9 will give you details info on how continuous water change
Click to expand...
Bart..Can you post pictures of the LM3 in the system in respect to it's location. . Where is the 200 gallon RO storage tank located in the system? Is your Specra pure located in your garage?
 
Another thing I did for my home made food a while ago was get some of those pellet ice trays from target and then after filling it I covered with the glad grab wrap stuff so it holds each cell closed by itself. That way it was easy to just pop out a small cube or two and keep everything else covered. Just makes it easier then snapping off from a larger block.
 
that's why I roll mine out pretty thin. I like the idea of the cube trays but have had freezer burn problems when I tried that.
 
I used the glad press n' seal wrap stuff and it worked pretty well and freezer burn wasn't really a problem. I do made small batches that only lasted a few weeks though so I don't know about longer exposure. Those silicon trays would work out great if you could vacuum seal 'em.
 
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