float switch failure

[nanomania]

Recently my floatswitch got stuck and the pump remained open and all the water from the reservoir to the tank. fortunately SG went from 1.024-22 as i jus keep a 1gal jug for it and my system is less than 30g. it started working again perfectly once i just shook it. i noticed 1 thing, that there are those tiny featherdusters growing in it. can that be the reason for it??

 

[fishgate]

I think this is unavoidable with float style switches. The below is the one I plan on getting for my new setup. Better safe then sorry.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=24985

 

[cubalz]

I think this is unavoidable with float style switches. The below is the one I plan on getting for my new setup. Better safe then sorry.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=24985

Fishgate: Unless I am missing something, how is the Tunze more "fail safe" that say a JBJ model?

 

[C Dog]

try using 2 float switches. They both would have to turn on before it pumped

 

[nanomania]

i guess usin 2 wud be best... any diagram?

 

[BigAl2007]

Tunze is a top of the line products and very reliable. I've owned JBJ, AUTOTOPOFF.com, and DIY Ato and all failed in less than 18 months. The Tunze have been going for much longer (36 months in Feb if memory serves me well) and it's not missed a lick. It uses an Optical sensor and a Float switch. Built in redundancy is a good thing

If I were designing one from scratch I would use dual Optical switches. All you do is wipe em off 1x a month and you're good to go. Nothing moving to wear out or get hung by a snail goofing off.

 

[Fishbulb2]

This is why I always advocate putting your ATO on a timer. Set the timer to run one minute every hour and then just increase it until the ATO can just keep up with you evaporation rate. This way, if you ever have a failure, it will take a REALLY long time to flood your sump. Second, if you stick your hands in the sump and make waves, it's unlikely that your ATO will be running at that time.

This is a simple thing to implement and can really save you. If you were using kalk, the ramifications would have been even higher.

FB

 

[Fishbulb2]

sorry, double post.

 

[reefgeezer]

I been there. I finally gave up on float switches all together. I use a BRS dosing pump and a Home Depot digital timer.

 

[Subw00er]

I always use two float switches too. Just wire them together.. take one lead and tie it to one of the second switch's leads. Take the remaining two leads from both switches and wire it back to your controller. That way, both have to be giving the same reading for it to activate. If you really want to be anal and have the room (like in a sump), get a third switch and wire it to your controller and have it shut off the pump when it gets activated (you place it above the normal water line)

And yes, the floats should be totally free of algae and critters. Keep them clean.

 

[Subw00er]

[dup please erase]

 

[nanomania]

well the snail can never go there, its built that way.
here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngl9WXXFSL0

 

[nanomania]

well the snail can never go there, its built that way.
here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngl9WXXFSL0

 

[jay320bird1]

I was having the same problem on my QT. I installed a timer and haven't had any problems since. Pretty easy solution and cost effective.

 

[Fishbulb2]

Yeah, I am a strong advocate of placing many of these items on timers (in combination with controllers). It is an easy cheap back up as you mentioned. Another application to consider is to place you aquarium heaters on dedicated timers in series with their controllers as well. This way you can limit the amount of time per hour that they are allowed to turn on. For example you can set your temperature to 78 and place the controller or heater on a timer so that it would run just around 80 if the controller or heater ever got stuck on. Basically the timer over rides both the controller and heater to protect your tank.

FB

 

[Fishbulb2]

Yeah, I am a strong advocate of placing many of these items on timers (in combination with controllers). It is an easy cheap back up as you mentioned. Another application to consider is to place you aquarium heaters on dedicated timers in series with their controllers as well. This way you can limit the amount of time per hour that they are allowed to turn on. For example you can set your temperature to 78 and place the controller or heater on a timer so that it would run just around 80 if the controller or heater ever got stuck on. Basically the timer over rides both the controller and heater to protect your tank.

FB

 

[nanomania]

But guys i jus have 30mint interval timers i dont have 5 or 15 mint itnerval timers.... what to do?

 

[jtomasi]

get a cheap controller. pretty much fail safe as most can set a time out feature.

 

[wildman926]

I use a gravity fed ato with an Eshopps float valve. If it fails, it fails in the closed position due to needing to be cleaned. I have experienced this three times in two years, so I know that is what it does.

 

[Fishbulb2]

I use a gravity fed ato with an Eshopps float valve. If it fails, it fails in the closed position due to needing to be cleaned. I have experienced this three times in two years, so I know that is what it does.

For additional protection, you could just also set a cheap plastic airline valve in upstream of you float valve. That way you can slow the flow to the sump and if the float valve ever get's stuck open, you would have a much longer time to catch it.

FB