float switch stuck

shyland83

shyland83

New member
So for someone reason i thought i was better than everyone else that have had float switched get stuck in the down position. I'm not. I woke up this morning to close to 10 gallons of extra top off water in my tank. Luckily i caught it, and the salinity only dropped to about 1.024.

So i'm going to add another float switch. But, does anyone see a problem with me greasing up my float switch with 100% silicone grease to prevent it from happening again?
 
Scott,

Not answering your question but understanding your dilemma. I am waiting for my sump to be delivered. In the mean time, I have a sump in a bucket with a manual float that also gets stuck. However, I was testing an electric unit that did not stick.

Spectrapure recommends 2 floats, an electric one and a backup one.

The new one I am getting is expensive but looks really nice. It's from LifeReef.

I think the problem is the salt. In my replacement bucket, I never have a problem, because water is RO/DI which seems fine for the manual float. The problem is in the sump, where the float works on salt water.
 
I have both Ultralife float switch and the JBJ Auto top off and the JBJ is much better . If the switch stays activated for a long time it automatically turns off. The Ultralife has gotten stuck plenty of times and it is my second one.Also the JBJ come with a top off container float as well so if it runs out the pump wont go on . Nice treat.JME
Tom
 
Ever think of running a timer on the top off? I run my top off threw a solenoid the only runs for 30 minutes, keeps the water level pretty close and I level it off before water changes and/or weekends. I haven't had a flood since...well on this anyway.
 
Hey Scott, i have heard this happen too many times. I use a timer with the reefiller pump . It goes on at night. Dose kalk with the top off to keep the ph stable as well. Float switches are not reliable enough imo. One reason my tank has not had a disaster since 1996.
 
I've been using a Lifereef switch for many years w/o a problem...just have to clean it every few months and as Mike mentioned I also dose kalk with my top off so need for a reactor to maintain a 8.3ph in my system...
 
luckily my kalk reactor was empty so my ph didn't go crazy. I think a backup float switch along with a monthly cleaning will be enough to help me sleep at night. and i still think i might try a very little bit of silicone grease to keep it moving cause no one is arguing against it. i'll see if it helps.
 
I am actually trying to figure out which ATO to purchase. I've read that the con of the using a timer is that the evaporation rate fluctuates. Joe do you change your timer based on different times of the year and evaporation rates? IS there a consensus of which ATO(s) are at the top of the list for reliability?
 
Usually only need to change the timer mid-fall and mid-spring, plus or minus a gallon doesn't really worry me as my normal weekend routine is check the water level and empty skimmer cup; if I have the time a water change.
 
I use a empty salt bucket with a Kent float hooked up to my RO. and a JBJ ATO. I mix in kalk in the bucket twice a week and I forget it. Simple , cheap( $79) and reliable. 2 years running with out a problem.Your welcome to come over and take a look. I'm actually running 2 of theses systems but one has a ultralife float switch. Gets stuck rarely but it gets stuck
 
I made mine with a relay and a few float switches i bought from aquahub. whole thing cost me 25 bucks. It works great, and this is the first time i've had switch stick in 6 months of using it. I'm going to ad a second switch in the sump for sure, the odds of 2 switches getting stuck at the same time are very small.
 
Mine sticka too.
How do you put a second switch in? Water just drips out around the float, so how do you run the water from the first switch to the second one?
 
Iamwhatiam52,

The way you set it up, is that usually, you have 1 electric operated float and the other one is a manual float. The concept is the water line goes to the electric float first. Then, it passes to the manual float that is placed at a slightly higher level. So when the electric float is operating properly, the 2nd manual float just let's the water pass through to the sump. However, in an electrical outage, usually, the electric float is set to be switched off and only operate when electricity is on. Now, in the case where the 1st electric float is operating not correctly and would let water pump through, the manual float will stop water passing through when that water mark is hit.

I am hoping my explanation was clear.
 
You can also wire 2 float switches in so that if either one goes to the up position in cuts power. both must be in the down position to turn on the pump.
 
Shyland83,

Your way is using 2 electric floats. However, sometimes things can happen to electric. So my RO/DI vendor recommends the electric / manual approach.

In addition, your way, means that 2 electric floats are being used with "wear and tear". Not sure if you want to go that route.
 
but most likely if anything fails on the electric float it will fail to the side of leaving the pump off which isn't catastrophic. unless both floats get stuck in the down position.
 
Scott,

The point is that anything is possible with electricity, so by using a manual float as a backup, you are making sure that if something went wrong (that we can not predict), then the manual float will work.

Imagine, if the electric float is supposed to be programmed to shut off when electricity is off. However, something broke in the unit and it does not operate properly, that's why the manual float is recommended. However, if your happy with your approach, then "go for it". I am just relaying what my vendor suggests.

So as long as your happy with your approach. That's what counts.
 
I understand, but a float switch and a relay are simple enough. I guess i'm just willing to take my chances that 2 float switches and a relay wont fail at the same time. But that was my thinking the first time when the first switch failed.
 
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