Float valve for ato?

[Scott B]

Hi everyone, been out of the game for a few years, getting back into it with a 150 g. I still have a jbj ato and may use that again. My question is can I plumb a float valve directly into my sump from my rodi unit to keep it on level? Seems like I've heard in the past that this is not a good idea. Thanks for any advice on this topic, I will have tons more questions to come

 

[kmbyrnes]

You don't really want to do that. Anything mechanical will fail. When that switch does, in addition to the flood, your tank's parameters will be totally upset, potentially killing all your livestock.

 

[mcgyvr]

Its not a good idea as a RO/DI system usually has higher TDS when first turned on and the constant short cycling with the float/ato just means you are always replenishing with that higher TDS..

 

[Optionman]

Hi everyone, been out of the game for a few years, getting back into it with a 150 g. I still have a jbj ato and may use that again. My question is can I plumb a float valve directly into my sump from my rodi unit to keep it on level? Seems like I've heard in the past that this is not a good idea. Thanks for any advice on this topic, I will have tons more questions to come

My 150 gal reef is setup exactly that way. I run a very long line from basement RODI unit directly to float in sump. As a failsafe against the float failing and RODI water flooding the system I have a solenoid spliced into the line which shuts the line (via apex controller) if the water level in the sump rises. Leak detectors connected to apex will trigger the solenoid' power to be cut.

This had been working without a hitch for 11 months. I can live with the risk of a simultaneous float and power failure.


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[Scott B]

Thanks for the reply. I understand that the float valve "mechanical" can fail over time, but doesn't that stay true for any ATO? All atos are mechanical, instead of them using float valves they have on low switch, and high switch. I guess those are "less" likely to fail?? I didn't know about tds being higher when switching on each time??

 

[Elricsfate]

Just my two cents.

First, google TDS Creep.

As far as the top off, I put a Tunze water controller in a 5 gallon bucket, and use an Osmolator in the sump. So, in the bucket I have a float valve and the high low switches from the water controller. Gives me a little redundancy, and only fills the bucket when it's empty (to avoid the on/off cycling many times a day). I guess for additional redundancy I could also add a leak detector. Then 3 systems would have to fail simultaneously to cause a flood.

 

[sde1500]

Thanks for the reply. I understand that the float valve "mechanical" can fail over time, but doesn't that stay true for any ATO? All atos are mechanical, instead of them using float valves they have on low switch, and high switch. I guess those are "less" likely to fail?? I didn't know about tds being higher when switching on each time??

Float switch failing when attached to an unlimited water supply means guaranteed tank crash, and probably a lot of damage to your house depending on when you catch the problem. Float switch failing on my ato in a 6 gallon bucket might not even overflow my tank. And the Tunze pump has an auto switch off after a certain time period.

The TDS on a RODI system is higher to start, typically I start it with the water all diverting to waste for the first minute, lets the TDS come down a bit, which puts less pressure on the DI resin.

 

[Sk8r]

My rule is not to connect my tank directly or indirectly to the city water supply.

 

[Scott B]

Thanks for all the responses. I wanted a way of being able to be gone for a week or so and not worry about filling my top off bucket so often, but I'll stick to using ato. I do like the method optionman stated...I'll look more into that