Flow...

[Avi]

I was thinking of getting a sulphur driven denitrator but I haven't set up a calcium reactor, and so I'm concerned about too much acid being generated and the pH dropping too much. Do you think that if I ran a sulphur-based denitrator without having the effluent run through a calcium reactor, I'd have that problem?

 

[SeanySean]

never had a problem with it, just need to make sure you keep an eye on the flow to prevent major build up. It was left unplugged for a few days without me knowing on my old reef and wow it smelled. they are well worth the money though. never had detectable levels and have not purchased a cr yet,

Butam interested in what your saying, I will test and post shortly

 

[Avi]

Sean, is on of these the nitrate reductor that you have?

I'm looking at the FI-AM76001 but you might have the FI-AM76011 because of the size of your tank:

http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/brandsubcategory.asp?brandID=AM&subcatID=fi-nr

How frequently do you have to add the Denimar Tablets or the Deniballs to maintain the effectiveness of the unit?

I have constant readings of nitrates at 25ppm. There are no apparent problems as a result...the fish are fine and so are the corals and other inverts, and there's no algae problems either, but I've been contemplating a method of getting the readings down to 0ppm. Water changes don't do it. This is one of the contraptions I've seen but know nothing about other than can be gleaned from the manufacturer's material.

 

[SeanySean]

hi Avi,

I have the FI-AM76001 and imho it easily does my tank due to so little load, I think that it would get rid of the nitrates no problem from your setup.

I use the balls, which you feed some tablets for the first few days, using a syringe. This kick starts it - I only did half the course as it was overloading it.

Treat it like a skimmer, with time you will just know it. The smell from the output should always be scentless. If you do smell sulphur too little flow, speed it up until the smell goes and then you can start again I aim for about 2 drips per second, it says about 1, but I found this was causing me problems with excess buildup on the bio balls (became quite furry)

just did the ph test and it was undetectable using a colour test.

 

[Avi]

Okay...so I'd need the balls AND the tablets? Is that how it works? How often would I replace these things, Sean?

Also, the manufacturer says that flow through it should be from 1 to 4 liters/hour (which is like one gallon per hour) so how do you get the flow so slow through it?

I'm getting closer to just going ahead and ordering one but I'd like to know something more about how it'd work so thanks a lot.

 

[SeanySean]

sure thing, hope this helps....


the unit has one inlet and one outlet, the inlet has a plastic T bar connected to one end of the meter long tube.
The T bar's flow into the unit is restricted to airline diameter. the other ends are connected to hose, mine is setup with a powerhead which then passes through a liquid stirrer.

PH --TUBE--T BAR--TUBE--LIQUID STIRRER.
l
D
E
N

but can be setup with pumps etc

Also connected to the begining of the inlinline tube is a Y piece which has a tap on both sides; one to restrict flow into the unit, one to allow for inital feeding of bio balls.

The outlet tubing has a plastic cylinder conected to the end which you put into the water, it has a small valve to alow the gasses to escape and is clear so you can see the drip rate

 

[SeanySean]

that DEN is supposed to be under the T

changed

 

[SeanySean]

I have finally (Well I think) managed to sort out the problem.

Drum role please.......

Right here goes and tell me what you think,

Before I built the canopy I broke one of the glass covers to the MH fittings, I did not think this would matter and have not thought about it since, well as I have checked every other possible thing that could cause all these things, I decided to check about lighting, checking on the arcadia website I saw a warniong about their lights not having any UV protection, with a nice big !

To me this makes sense....

The LR looks beautiful behind out of direct light - reflected filtered light?!?!
The crabs only come out at night, hiding all day
The LR looks dead / bleached in direct sunlight
I assume that the UV would damage the fish protective coating leaving it susceptible to disease.
When there were lots of fish there were less places to hide leaving them exposed.

This is all pretty much an assumption, but it really does make sense.
The fish appeared to stress more when all the lighting is on.
I suppose only time will now tell... but at least everythin g will be primed ready for a great reef

 

[Avi]

That does make sense indeed....some lights are meant to go over a glass shield that will filter out some UV so that it doesn't burn the fish. Keep posting about this.