Flow?

[rogergolf66]

Ok I have read lots of mixed opinions.

How much flow in a zoa and paly tank? I have a 120 gal tank with 2 mp40 one on each side turned down 50% and a 3/4 return that alternated on a scwd. Running about 900-1,100 gph

Maybe this will help me figure it out.

1. what do they tend to do with to much flow?
2. What do they tend to do with to much light?

It's definitely not to little light or to little flow.

They have all moved into this tank from my old tank that was much smaller. They were all very happy in old tank. Haven't found the perfect transition yet. Hard to tell if to much light or to much flow is going on.

Thanks

Roger

 

[CRW Reefer]

The zoas will all be closed up or close too closed up if there is too much light or flow. Thus the beauty of magnetic frag racks to try at different levels to see what it likes best.

 

[Reefnub]

My tank is sps dominant and I have 2 mp40 at 90% and a jebao wp40 turned up. My zoas do fine, but it also depends on aquascape. Just place them where there is less flow. Zoas will close up if there's too much flow and you can definitely see that they can't open due to high flow.

 

[rogergolf66]

Magnetic frag racks not an option.

Also no aquascaping.

I have heard mix opinions if it is to much light or not.

 

[aguila88psi]

I'm thinking too much flow or too random of a flow.

 

[rogergolf66]

I'm thinking too much flow or too random of a flow.

To random of flow. Iv never heard to flow being to random

 

[suzig]

the good thing about zoas and palys is that if you put them in shade, they often start to open and stretch out/ extend to the light. other corals may just not open and slowly die. zoanthids and palys, IME will literally try and get to the light. this should work to your advantage in that if you shade them and they start to open and look like they are reaching for the light, you will know that the light is too intense for them and you can make adjustments..

as for flow, two mp40s in your size tank at 50% seems adequate to me. polyps shouldnt be moving around like you want sps polyps to do. if you look closely and see sediment around them moving, thats a good thing. remember its about the current in the tank as a whole, not about a powerhead being pointed directly at any 1 coral...

 

[rogergolf66]

I have put a couple small frags on the bottom of the tank Under the frag racks. We will c how they do in the lower light. Personally I think its to much light for them.

 

[CRW Reefer]

Nice frags racks I like!!!! What size is that tank?

 

[rogergolf66]

Nice frags racks I like!!!! What size is that tank?

Thanks 120gal

 

[Pallobi]

Any update on the ones you place in the shade on the bottom. Any other new info to share?

 

[rogergolf66]

Any update on the ones you place in the shade on the bottom. Any other new info to share?

The ones on the bottom are all open and happy. I think it was to much light though. I did also turn the mp40s to 50% but I don't think it was to much flow

 

[Pallobi]

Cool. Good to head. I have a shallow 40 breeder at the moment with zoas and palys, they seem a little constricted. I have two mp10s on each end that run on reef crest from 33 to 66 percent max. Well except when I turn them up jus to stir up detritus for a couple hours a week however I have a 6 bulb t5 Tekkie, with 5 blue plus and 1 aquablue special. Even though it's like a foot above the water , I feel like the light might be a little too much...
Anyone with some thoughts? All params are just fine...

 

[rogergolf66]

Well if u think its to much light personally I would swap out a blue plus for an actinic. That will lower the par and give u another spectrum of light to help the zoa and paly pop. I think I'm going to go with 2 actinic to help lower my par on my 8 bulb fixture.

 

[TampaSnooker]

It's too general a question, Roger. Depending on species, they may grow 30' down next to Riccordea getting a gentle shower of debri from the reef above or they may grow on a seawall, getting blasted for 4-6 hours from one direction as water flows through a cut, bridge, etc. I know that Vice zoas are the latter and need vigorous exercise or they will not thrive. My Darth Mauls for example wanted much more gentle flow before the Lamarck's ate them. Hence random flow may not be good for some species and it may benefit others. I have an enormous colony on Eagle Eyes in an 800 that LOVE being next to the SeaSwirl where they get pummelled every 20-30 sec. Long lash zoa species will likely all fall into this category. I believe a lot of People Eater types come from the shallows, too - simply based on cost of certain ones. I've read Hawaiian collectors saying they get them in tide pools, which suggests a species adapted to some periods of waves with lot of stagnant time in between - perhaps even baking in the sun to help keep other organisms from growing on them. ID your species and group accordingly.

 

[rogergolf66]

Well I have m Po ved on to light as the issue. Not flow in this case anyways. New light over frag tank is to stong its even bleaching the high light sps

 

[A. Grandis]

Simply put, in regards to light and water flow:

You can tell if it's too much flow when they are closing up.
Too little flow when they aren't moving at all.
Different parts of the system will have distinct flow patterns, most of the time, just like light (PAR, etc)!

Again, generally speaking, too much light they would be closing up.
Too little light they would be stretching up with longer polyps, without much color pigments after a while, trying to reach more light.

Bleaching would be related to stress by a shock of light or heat, normally.
It could happen over a period of time, yes, and that would be too much light on a longer then normal photoperiod, and/or stronger intensity.

The combo of both (light/flow) would make difficult to decide what's wrong, if so.
Common sense is a good tool!

Please remember that light and water flow aren't all what you need for healthy zoas.

I think your tank looks too blue.

Grandis.

 

[rogergolf66]

Please remember that light and water flow aren't all what you need for healthy zoas.

I think your tank looks too blue.

Grandis.

I changed the color around a bit. I agree it was to blue. I added a ge6500k

Can you elaborate a bit more on what else is needed for healthy zoas? I have been keeping them susses fully in my old tank but the switch over to this new setup hasn't gone as well.

Thanks

Roger

 

[A. Grandis]

I changed the color around a bit. I agree it was to blue. I added a ge6500k

Can you elaborate a bit more on what else is needed for healthy zoas? I have been keeping them susses fully in my old tank but the switch over to this new setup hasn't gone as well.

Thanks

Roger

Hi Roger,

I would have to write a book! LOL! :reading:
Basically speaking: dipping methods, quarantine, nutrition (all aspects), water chemistry, knowing possible predation and diseases, system's maintenance, systems' nutrient control, stability, placement, specific needs for each species, etc... That's besides lighting and water flow.
Each of the subject would need a chapter. :beer:

When the balance is reached everything falls in place. If you have "good lights" and don't understand much about "water chemistry" or about their "flow needs" they will show some discomfort. Just an example.

I believe that if you have some time and do a search you'll find good threads around here.

Grandis.

 

[likefish]

I changed the color around a bit. I agree it was to blue. I added a ge6500k

Roger

Roger on the note about too much blue..... There is a guy in orlando that grows and swaps high-end zoas very sucessfully whose tank i have seen many times. He grows his zoas, chalices and collector mushrooms under a DIY Bridgelux LED bar that is all royal blue with every 5th LED being green. This is all of the light that his zoas receive and they are spectacular!!! Amazing head size and they spread like wild fire.

His lighting is minimal. I do not know the total # of LED's but i believe its in the neighborhood of 30 over a 120 gal long tank. ALl the zoas are in about 12" of water on a rack. he feeds agressivly.

Acros brown out and stop growing in this tank, montis color up very nicely but grow slowly. Heavy feeding and large water changes montly (give or take)

I dont think too much blue (not enough white) is a problem with Zoas.... based solely on what i have seen in practice.