Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
another pics:
Flying Dutch 700 gallon in wall tank-living room/home office divider - Build Thread
- Thread starter Euler Kernighan
- Start date
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
another pics:
Robb in Austin
New member
Looking good!
congrats Euler, Lavinia will love the aquarium. And what a great wife to let you keep it, a lot would have said different. Trust me tho when Lavinia is crying you will be loving that tank. Becouse all you will have to do is hold her in front of it and she will quite right down. Babys love saltwater aquariums. Best of luck and im glad your back at this thread.
reefjunkie42
Wrasse junkie
looks good bud, more pics i hope
Toomnymods
New member
I disagree. I had one of the best bulbs 14k phoenix hqi's for well over 1.5yrs and 2 months ago i decided to give the AI SOL super blues a try and low and behold my coloration of my corals are brighter and more pronounced.. everything in the tank "glows" like it's a limited edition coral now. With halides / vho actinics all i had where drab colorations on everything.
Energy savings is right at 55-60bucks per month savings over my old 800-900 watt of hqi's and vho's now i barely even have the whites up to 65% on all 3 of my ai sols and blues blasting at 100% and probably not even using 160 watts total on three of the units. Heat what heat?? no heat in my room whatso ever anymore, dont need a chiller anymore either.
Thier are no disadvantages to led's only advantages..
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
Thanks you Bellis, I'm trying to do my best on this! :thumbsup:
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
hey Adam, thanks for the nice words! and I noted down hold her in front of the tank - that's will go to my book "Reef Aquariums and Babies" :lmao: :lolspin:
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
I disagree. I had one of the best bulbs 14k phoenix hqi's for well over 1.5yrs and 2 months ago i decided to give the AI SOL super blues a try and low and behold my coloration of my corals are brighter and more pronounced.. everything in the tank "glows" like it's a limited edition coral now. With halides / vho actinics all i had where drab colorations on everything.
Energy savings is right at 55-60bucks per month savings over my old 800-900 watt of hqi's and vho's now i barely even have the whites up to 65% on all 3 of my ai sols and blues blasting at 100% and probably not even using 160 watts total on three of the units. Heat what heat?? no heat in my room whatso ever anymore, dont need a chiller anymore either.
Thier are no disadvantages to led's only advantages..
that's a really good review - how many AI modules are you using?
i'm really interested in this subject - I may start with 4 modules and if everything goes alright I'll upgrade to 8 ou 12 modules.
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
annotations on circulation
annotations on circulation
guys, let me share my thoughts on circulation with you. first of all I'd like to talk about turn rate between tank and sump.
the tank will hold about 320g. as I'm going with a coast-to-coast overflow box with beananimal overflow system using 1" bulkheads, the full siphon will be capable of handling about 520 GPH of flow!
giving us about 1.7 turn rate - let me know your thoughts about this. Is it good? Do I need more?
annotations on circulation
guys, let me share my thoughts on circulation with you. first of all I'd like to talk about turn rate between tank and sump.
the tank will hold about 320g. as I'm going with a coast-to-coast overflow box with beananimal overflow system using 1" bulkheads, the full siphon will be capable of handling about 520 GPH of flow!
giving us about 1.7 turn rate - let me know your thoughts about this. Is it good? Do I need more?
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
annotations on circulation
annotations on circulation
...regarding internal tank circulation my goals is to promote three main areas of oceanic current and I'm going to use a closed-loop to accomplish this.
The first oceanic current will be the wave roll, (to recreate the 'circular' particle motion found in waves), using the 4 middle bottom front outlets. The second one is the 'tidal phases' using the 2 corner outlets. And the last is the 'longshore drift' using the other 2 corner outlets.
in this image bottom front returns will blow water upwards at 45 degrees towards the water surface 24" above, the flow is then deflected by the water surface towards the back and then down again causing a rolling motion of water across the reef structure:
Longshore and Tidal currents: By running both two front corner outlets, a clockwise rotational flow is created which simulates the laminar flow characteristics of both tidal and oceanic current. Note these flows are not too harsh, they are simply designed to simulate the 'gentle' ongoing flow along the front of the reef, which run perpendicular to the wave action.
and
the other two rear corner outlets will run to create a 180deg shift in this rotation - counterclockwise . This gives the full scope of tidal phases encountered where large volumes of water travel across the reef during incoming tidal phases and the same effect, but opposite, during tide out phases.
alternating from this:
to this:
the inlets of closed-loop will be right on each corner:
I'm really confident with this approach and enjoying a lot with closed-loop. :thumbsup:
Looking-forward to hear anything from you guys.:bounce3:
annotations on circulation
...regarding internal tank circulation my goals is to promote three main areas of oceanic current and I'm going to use a closed-loop to accomplish this.
The first oceanic current will be the wave roll, (to recreate the 'circular' particle motion found in waves), using the 4 middle bottom front outlets. The second one is the 'tidal phases' using the 2 corner outlets. And the last is the 'longshore drift' using the other 2 corner outlets.
in this image bottom front returns will blow water upwards at 45 degrees towards the water surface 24" above, the flow is then deflected by the water surface towards the back and then down again causing a rolling motion of water across the reef structure:
Longshore and Tidal currents: By running both two front corner outlets, a clockwise rotational flow is created which simulates the laminar flow characteristics of both tidal and oceanic current. Note these flows are not too harsh, they are simply designed to simulate the 'gentle' ongoing flow along the front of the reef, which run perpendicular to the wave action.
and
the other two rear corner outlets will run to create a 180deg shift in this rotation - counterclockwise . This gives the full scope of tidal phases encountered where large volumes of water travel across the reef during incoming tidal phases and the same effect, but opposite, during tide out phases.
alternating from this:
to this:
the inlets of closed-loop will be right on each corner:
I'm really confident with this approach and enjoying a lot with closed-loop. :thumbsup:
Looking-forward to hear anything from you guys.:bounce3:
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
... i just forget to show you guys the water movement from tank to overflow box:
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
that's the layout of the holes on bottom glass:
in the 'first cicle', water comes into the left inlet and will be blown through the outlets 'A' - causing the 'rolling motion', after that the outlets 'B' will do their job on the 'longshore drift' pattern - this mode of operation roll the water on clockwise way.
after four hours, the second closed loop is tuned on and the water goes through the right inlet, working in parallel mode with the first closed-loop, like this:
the chaotic movement of water when the both closed-loop are turned on produces tidal pattern on water surface about one hour. After that, the first closed-loop is turned off and the new current pattern looks like this:
this is the same as found in the first cicle, but the water current rolls from right to the left doing a counter clockwise movement.
The closed-loop timing program is:
i'd like to hear anything about you guys!
in the 'first cicle', water comes into the left inlet and will be blown through the outlets 'A' - causing the 'rolling motion', after that the outlets 'B' will do their job on the 'longshore drift' pattern - this mode of operation roll the water on clockwise way.
after four hours, the second closed loop is tuned on and the water goes through the right inlet, working in parallel mode with the first closed-loop, like this:
the chaotic movement of water when the both closed-loop are turned on produces tidal pattern on water surface about one hour. After that, the first closed-loop is turned off and the new current pattern looks like this:
this is the same as found in the first cicle, but the water current rolls from right to the left doing a counter clockwise movement.
The closed-loop timing program is:
i'd like to hear anything about you guys!
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
UPDATES!
so... the times come to getting rid of "old" stand... the recycle guys are pretty happy with me :thumbsup:
and:
hold on, more updates comin' :dance:
so... the times come to getting rid of "old" stand... the recycle guys are pretty happy with me :thumbsup:
and:
hold on, more updates comin' :dance:
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
my back is killing me!!!
my back is killing me!!!
just to show some progress here. After getting rid of all that stuff, I started to work on new stand, made if I-beans - o my gosh!!! that [edited] is so heavy... my back is killing me!!! i'm needing an overdose of vitamin D maybe cervical epidural shots :ape: that [edited] from aquarium club doesn't help me!!!
left side:
right view:
details on "wire conduit"
I made this kind of biscuit for two reasons: first a place where wires can go through and second a workaround to fix a wood panel on i-bean:
as you can see in this last pic, the plywood panel (back in the photo) is fixed in the ibeam - the main goal of this panel is hold a lot of GFCIs.
hope you guys are enjoying!!! :bounce3:
my back is killing me!!!
just to show some progress here. After getting rid of all that stuff, I started to work on new stand, made if I-beans - o my gosh!!! that [edited] is so heavy... my back is killing me!!! i'm needing an overdose of vitamin D maybe cervical epidural shots :ape: that [edited] from aquarium club doesn't help me!!!
left side:
right view:
details on "wire conduit"
I made this kind of biscuit for two reasons: first a place where wires can go through and second a workaround to fix a wood panel on i-bean:
as you can see in this last pic, the plywood panel (back in the photo) is fixed in the ibeam - the main goal of this panel is hold a lot of GFCIs.
hope you guys are enjoying!!! :bounce3:
Last edited by a moderator:
bmullikin1
New member
If im not mistaken, bean, like my herbie, can handle upwards of 2000gph on 1" plumbing. im running the herbie w 1" piping on my 180 w dual corner overflows w 2 tunze 1073.040's and have both gate valves barely open, they could handle much more flow than im giving them.
Euler Kernighan
The "DIY Guy"
are on running herbie on both of them? is there any point where you connect them in a single pipe with just one outlet to the sump???
i just ready on "Silent and Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System" thread that it is not possible to run two overflow boxes in a "single system", I really don't no why, but it seems the system don't become really silent.
what do you tell me about the noise on your dual overflow box?
i just ready on "Silent and Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System" thread that it is not possible to run two overflow boxes in a "single system", I really don't no why, but it seems the system don't become really silent.
what do you tell me about the noise on your dual overflow box?
matt_shanahan
New member
Wow
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