First, read the red-arrow sticky. Print it, highlight bits you want to remember, and keep it handy for reference.
Second, have a quarantine tank. Doesn't need to be elaborate, doesn't need a light, shouldn't have rock or sand. Bare glass. Heater. Get gear before you get fish. Always. You need a strong pump. Ocean fish depend on high oxygen. You probably need a screen top to prevent them jumping out.
Third, a magnifying glass to look at your fish. Flashlight is fine. Any bumps or irregularities---get concerned. Fins should be perfect, skin should be smooth, eyes clear, and poop should not be white. If you spot a problem, ask us.
Fourth, qt no more than 1-2 fishes at a time. Your newly cycled tank (cycled!!!!!!! right?) can't take more load than that. And you HAVE had hermits and snails at work in your display tank (dt) for four weeks, right?
Get an autotopoff unit for your qt AND your dt. They don't need to involve a controller. Just something to turn on a ro/di source to keep fresh water coming in at the same rate evaporation takes water away from your tank. A 50 gallon tank may easily evaporate a gallon a day.
Having a sump rig from the get-go for your dt is the BEST way to go. Canister filters, filters at all, will keep your nitrate high, and nothing likes it that high. Canisters are ok with fish-onlies, but if you ever want corals, plan on a downflow box and sump as a real good idea.
Test obsessively for the first 3 months. You want temperature in both tanks a pretty steady 79, salinity a rock-solid never-changing 1.024, and an alkalinity of 7.9 to 8.3.
DO NOT DRIP ACCLIMATE a new fish unless your salinity difference between bag and quarantine tank is greater than .002. To determine this, you MUST either have a refractometer or a technician's skill with a swing-arm. Go for the refractometer. It will pay for itself in not-dead-fish. Drip acclimation has (IMHO) killed more fish than it has helped in the marine hobby. It's all about salinity. You find out the salinity at which the fish you're buying is shipped (phone and ask!) and pre-set your qt tank to that salinity. Double-check the bag salinity on arrival, but drip ONLY if the difference is greater than .002 and NEVER for longer than 30 minutes. Period. If the weather is cold or hot, float the UNOPENED bag for 15 minutes to equalize the temperature.
DO NOT FEED a new fish for a number of hours. Let him calm down and let his eyes and brain adjust. Let him find a place to hide and do not bother him. He'll come out when he feels like it. Let him feel safe in this bare tank (give him a pvc elbow for a hidey-hole, and do nothing to disturb him. Do not worry if he swims at angles a freshwater fish won't...he's probably ok: marine fish do that. When he calms down, colors, up, starts to explore, THEN is a time to give him a few mouthfuls (only 2) of food.
Let him relax and get used to you. FOllow the TTM protocols (Fish Disease outlines the procedure).
Don't buy a fish until you have the right gear, until you have tests, and until that qt is ready.
If you think he has a disease, get photos, or get a good precise description of why you think so, and post in the New to Hobby forum. If we agree, we'll advise what to do.
This set of procedures will assure your fish has the best chance of surviving to enjoy that nice cycled tank.
Second, have a quarantine tank. Doesn't need to be elaborate, doesn't need a light, shouldn't have rock or sand. Bare glass. Heater. Get gear before you get fish. Always. You need a strong pump. Ocean fish depend on high oxygen. You probably need a screen top to prevent them jumping out.
Third, a magnifying glass to look at your fish. Flashlight is fine. Any bumps or irregularities---get concerned. Fins should be perfect, skin should be smooth, eyes clear, and poop should not be white. If you spot a problem, ask us.
Fourth, qt no more than 1-2 fishes at a time. Your newly cycled tank (cycled!!!!!!! right?) can't take more load than that. And you HAVE had hermits and snails at work in your display tank (dt) for four weeks, right?
Get an autotopoff unit for your qt AND your dt. They don't need to involve a controller. Just something to turn on a ro/di source to keep fresh water coming in at the same rate evaporation takes water away from your tank. A 50 gallon tank may easily evaporate a gallon a day.
Having a sump rig from the get-go for your dt is the BEST way to go. Canister filters, filters at all, will keep your nitrate high, and nothing likes it that high. Canisters are ok with fish-onlies, but if you ever want corals, plan on a downflow box and sump as a real good idea.
Test obsessively for the first 3 months. You want temperature in both tanks a pretty steady 79, salinity a rock-solid never-changing 1.024, and an alkalinity of 7.9 to 8.3.
DO NOT DRIP ACCLIMATE a new fish unless your salinity difference between bag and quarantine tank is greater than .002. To determine this, you MUST either have a refractometer or a technician's skill with a swing-arm. Go for the refractometer. It will pay for itself in not-dead-fish. Drip acclimation has (IMHO) killed more fish than it has helped in the marine hobby. It's all about salinity. You find out the salinity at which the fish you're buying is shipped (phone and ask!) and pre-set your qt tank to that salinity. Double-check the bag salinity on arrival, but drip ONLY if the difference is greater than .002 and NEVER for longer than 30 minutes. Period. If the weather is cold or hot, float the UNOPENED bag for 15 minutes to equalize the temperature.
DO NOT FEED a new fish for a number of hours. Let him calm down and let his eyes and brain adjust. Let him find a place to hide and do not bother him. He'll come out when he feels like it. Let him feel safe in this bare tank (give him a pvc elbow for a hidey-hole, and do nothing to disturb him. Do not worry if he swims at angles a freshwater fish won't...he's probably ok: marine fish do that. When he calms down, colors, up, starts to explore, THEN is a time to give him a few mouthfuls (only 2) of food.
Let him relax and get used to you. FOllow the TTM protocols (Fish Disease outlines the procedure).
Don't buy a fish until you have the right gear, until you have tests, and until that qt is ready.
If you think he has a disease, get photos, or get a good precise description of why you think so, and post in the New to Hobby forum. If we agree, we'll advise what to do.
This set of procedures will assure your fish has the best chance of surviving to enjoy that nice cycled tank.
