1. Are corals harder than fish? Answer: depends on what you keep. In general, corals don't jump, get ich (they have their own parasites, but most can be solved with dip and a period of observation), or travel over and bite their neighbors--many stonies do, however, have a 6" reach, and softies just spit into the water to discourage other corals growing (use carbon, which removes it). One thing to remember: corals eat LIGHT, and it has to be the right light for corals when you set up.
2. Are fish harder than corals? Answer: depends. In general, if you buy smart, quarantine, and don't buy species that grow (inside a few months) too large for your tank (aggression is often a function of tank size, not disposition)---you'll probably succeed. Problem being that new folk often think everything stays the same size as they bought and that you can crowd fish together like the pictures in the ads. No, to both. Ask about adult size, always, and be sure to have high turnover and oxygenation, jump-screen jumpy species, and be SURE you aren't importing ich, and you should be fine. Do remember that the 'Nemo' tank was purposely designed to be absolutely awful, inappropriate species, too small, no oxygenation, a 'death' tank, in other words. Unfortunately very few who saw the movie 'got' that part...to the misfortune of a lot of little fishes.
In general there is ONE THING that impacts both corals and fishes. Water quality. If you just cycle and throw fish or corals in with NO tests ---not good. Go to that sticky (permanent post) up there ^^^^^ and read about what you do after cycling, what tests you need to be sure you're ready for fish---generally alkalinity, calcium and magnesium: and own your own tests. My preferred ones are Salifert brand, minimal reliance on color, results are in numbers; and easy to do. If your water quality is up, and you've handled the question of disease and parasites, you are good to go, and neither is much harder than the other (given good lights.)
Please---know what a coral is when you buy it and ask what it needs. Ask whether it's softie or stony---and in general, don't mix them in the same tank until you have experience with corals. Carry pen and paper and write down the name, and pay close attention (if a coral) to where it was in the display tank and what light it was under. Ask. To acclimate a brighter light difference, start low in your tank and raise it a bit every few days. "Uhh, I bought this thing, I don't know what it is..." is not a happy situation. With fish, be sure to buy the fattest and healthiest looking with perfect fins and gills: don't pity-buy. Leave that to the experts. And ASK how it gets along with your other fish and whether it eats corals. 'Kay?
Hope that helps. We have LOTS of sticky-posts to help you, and if those can't, ask. Many experienced folk hang out in here specifically to help you.
2. Are fish harder than corals? Answer: depends. In general, if you buy smart, quarantine, and don't buy species that grow (inside a few months) too large for your tank (aggression is often a function of tank size, not disposition)---you'll probably succeed. Problem being that new folk often think everything stays the same size as they bought and that you can crowd fish together like the pictures in the ads. No, to both. Ask about adult size, always, and be sure to have high turnover and oxygenation, jump-screen jumpy species, and be SURE you aren't importing ich, and you should be fine. Do remember that the 'Nemo' tank was purposely designed to be absolutely awful, inappropriate species, too small, no oxygenation, a 'death' tank, in other words. Unfortunately very few who saw the movie 'got' that part...to the misfortune of a lot of little fishes.
In general there is ONE THING that impacts both corals and fishes. Water quality. If you just cycle and throw fish or corals in with NO tests ---not good. Go to that sticky (permanent post) up there ^^^^^ and read about what you do after cycling, what tests you need to be sure you're ready for fish---generally alkalinity, calcium and magnesium: and own your own tests. My preferred ones are Salifert brand, minimal reliance on color, results are in numbers; and easy to do. If your water quality is up, and you've handled the question of disease and parasites, you are good to go, and neither is much harder than the other (given good lights.)
Please---know what a coral is when you buy it and ask what it needs. Ask whether it's softie or stony---and in general, don't mix them in the same tank until you have experience with corals. Carry pen and paper and write down the name, and pay close attention (if a coral) to where it was in the display tank and what light it was under. Ask. To acclimate a brighter light difference, start low in your tank and raise it a bit every few days. "Uhh, I bought this thing, I don't know what it is..." is not a happy situation. With fish, be sure to buy the fattest and healthiest looking with perfect fins and gills: don't pity-buy. Leave that to the experts. And ASK how it gets along with your other fish and whether it eats corals. 'Kay?
Hope that helps. We have LOTS of sticky-posts to help you, and if those can't, ask. Many experienced folk hang out in here specifically to help you.
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