For those who run chillers...

mpoletti

You'll never walk alone
Premium Member
I finally plumbed my chiller in today. I have it set at 80 with a 2 degree fluctation. That means when it gets to 82, it pulls it back close to 80. I bought a big chiller (1/4 hp) for my 90 so it would be jazzy for my future upgrades.

My question is A) what in your temp set at and B) how long in between chill mode...ie when the chiller comes back on.

Thanks in advance with my addiction needs...:p
 
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I have mine set at 79 with the 2' fluct. I have the Coral Life 1/4hp on the 100. But mine also seems to be off by a degree. It comes on at 81(by my external digital therm) after a 2 minute standby making sure the temp is going to stay over that and shuts off back off at 80. The chiller triggers the heaters to come on at 78 with the same waiting period.

Last week on our really warm days the chiller was coming on for about 10 mins every hour and 1/2.

I cant belive how stable my temps are after adding this. Adding the larger fans in my hood also helped along with getting all the pumps out of the display and adding a sump.
 
Hey Mark,

My chiller has been running for about a week now on my 100g. I think the biggest contributor to the heat in my tank is my Iwaki 70-RLT I am using as a closed loop pump. I am setting my target temp at 79 degrees. I currently set a 0.1 degree delta. at 79 chiller comes on and 78.9 chiller goes off. Mine seems to cycle 8-10 time an hour.

I am learning as well.

John
 
Yikes, that sounds like a lot of cycling.. John

I'd see if you can tone that down a bit with some delays. That's really had on an AC uint.
 
John - You might burn up your chiller with only a 0.1 degree threshold. Why set it at 0.1?

Try +/- 1 degree and see many times it comes on a day. It would also be more efficient since it prolly takes 5-10min just for the chiller to 'warm up' before it is pulling temperature out.

Just an idea.

To answer your question. I have big fans come one first at about 80 deg F. Then the chiller is set to turn on at 81 and off at 82. Chiller hasn't come on yet. But, summer is coming....

Scott
 
I got this chiller 2nd hand and it did not come with a manual so I just made something up to start. I just set it to a 1 degree delta and it has been running for 20 minutes, but the temp is slowly dropping.

John
 
Trade winds said that a chiller will burn out with that tight of control parameters. They say 2 degrees is optimum for the efficiency of the compressor.
 
As well mine is second hand, and is a test drive to see what I want in one. I have noticed in the last couple of weeks its running more and more and not putting out as much heat, so I am thinking I may need a new one this summer.......though it just may need a good cleaning......or I am imagining it.......

Some theories and philosophies I have.



What temp? Good question, play with it a little.....since SPS is the most sensitive and thats what you and I keep, we will discuss with reference to that. Current data I have seen......puts the average reef in the 82-84 degree range. However, it has been found that 86 is near the upper limit for SPS and RTN occurs near there. I have heard that better colors and growth occur at slightly higher temps. For a long time I kept mine at 78 which is towards the lower side, when I didn't have a chiller and didn't want to push it. After hearing about the above information, I upped it to 80 and have not had any ill effects, in addition cuts down on the need for the chiller to work extra. Currently mine fluctuates between 80-81.5 degrees.

If you want to keep the tank on the cooler side and very tight in temperature without much deviation. By a chiller that is oversized for system that is inline, not drop in, that has more cooling capacity that heat generated and just "kills it" so it doesn't have to run all day to keep up.

Why do you want it stable as possible and not fluctuate all day?

My theory: Because SPS are so sensitive to just living and small changes in Alk/temp/salinity can kill them, I would only imagine the window to get optimum growth rates is down right invisible. Sure, with levels in the "acceptable" levels one can get stuff to surrvive and grow, but if your interested in getting those 1/2" frags growing out of the tank as fast a possible the params need to be solid as a rock. I imagine that say the growth rate is a reaction that only takes place when x,y & z are within a certain level growth starts. However, if they are at a certain, optimal level growth rate is maximized. Any deviation and the process is either slower or worse stopped. Think about this happening all day and say your temp is fluctuating between 80 and 82 every hour, at 80F you get 50% growth rate, at 81F 100%, 82 back down to 50%. Its a constant starting and stopping much like if one were hitting all redlights instead of green on the street. Which gets you to the finish line faster?

Now take this into consideration with all parameters in your tank....the smoother and flatter your params are...the more happier, healthier your corals are.....hence more growth.

I realized this when I observed just how much my growth rate went up when I was continously dosing two part throughout the day rather than the yo-yo cycle of daily dosing.

I am trying to incorporate small choices like this that may decide the difference in 1/2" month growth or 1/8"...............



With a chiller its hard to keep your temp spot on and may fight with the heater if big enough and depending where each probe is. Hooking them both up to a controller with its own quality probe is key in closing that gap. A two to three rise and fall a day I believe is the most is recommended. Many cycles of this could happer them. I will touch on why below.
 
When I get mine installed I will have it come on at 82-83 and chill to 78 or 79.

That way it will run for 30 mins or so and then be off for a few hours (or so)

I know you're not suposed to swing temps like that but, if it makes the chiller last years more then it would have, it's worth it to me, as long as no corals are harmed.
 
I just got my new heater. My Jager wasn't cutting it. Last night the temp was at 78. That is 78 in the am and 82 at its peak. I know I want to knock off a degree but 4 degree swing is better than 5 degree swing. Gotta stay positive....
 
I'm prolly going to get slamed for saying this but my tank does not go into alarm until 75 or below and 84 and above.
With those numbers I have not lost anything and seen any stress on my animals including the corals (Yes I keep SPS)

I know it's prolly not good practice, but I've had VERY good results. Granted the temp swings are over 24 hours not in a few mins or even a few hours.
 
Like I said, they will survive with the recommended temps you guys are using. Its just my opinion the more consistent the params the growth rates will be maximized, when you have a tank full of cnarlys......one wants to grow them as fast as possible.

Whats that saying..."surviving is one thing, thriving is another"
 
I can see both sides of this. I want my tank to have a little swing. That way when the power goes out, or something else happens, then I am not as worried.
 
That is how i see temp swings. If your corals in your tank are used to say 81* everysingle moment of the day and night when something like a heater or chiller goes out which the latter can take a while to get back up the corals in the tank are going to be in serious shock.

Even the healthist coral is going to have a problem when something like this happens but when you have 2*-4* of temp swing through a day night scheld it might not be optimal for growth rates but over all the coral will be much more hearty so when something does tank it gives the keeper a little bit of worry room.

Right now in my tank i am looking at a 2-4 ( 4 at worst ) temp swing from day and night and everything is really healthy. Fact I got some discount sps since they were browning out and they have really colored up only being in the tank for 2 weeks.
 
Ive heard that arguement before that since they are used to changes that they are adapted to it.......I don't really think that would hold true as these are some of the most sensitive animals on the planet and pretty much "stuck in their ways" they are either happy and growing at 100% or unhappy and not.

I am mainly talking about maximizing growth and have already stated that a 2 degree (4 is kinda pushing it IMO. FWIW 2 makes me nervous because we havn't even talked about true and measured results/accuracy), will allow them to survive, but thriving and growing at thier max potential is another story, which I believe should be as stable as possible.

I think much like people, if a corals enviroment is constantly in flux we won't be 100% comfortable and allowed to maximize our potential. Because I found this also to be true with dosing Alkalinity constantly, I would theorize that is would retain to all paramaters.

I try myself to set all of my params in the middle of the range and keep them there in case of a problem as you guys have stated. However, I don't feel it is necessary to stress the corals out multiple times daily for a "what if" situation that may or may not occur.

Some one on their sig line that frequents the SPS forum states SPS=Stability Promotes Success........just how stable and at what resolution is the question.

All I know is I have had excellent results in the past year and my pieces are growing as fast as ever.....how much this contributes to it is hard to quanitfy......in the end, slightly different philosophies. Not something really to split hairs on......seems like we are all keeping them alive which is what really maters.
 
I totally agre that steady temps are best for corals.
That's why I have ATO on each of my tanks, I don't want sal to change even 1 ppt in the day.

However in the summer I feel it's going to be a survival to make it through the summer at all... I have no AC on the house.

In the winter I keep it at a steady 79-80 dead on.

In the heat I go into survival mode, and will do anything to make the support systems last longer.

I will strive for maximum growth in the winter, and strive for survival in the summer.
:)
 
I can completely understand that. I live in an old house and the insulation here is terrible. The chiller was a definite. I am trying to learn how to get my heater set right so it not 76 when I wake up. I bought a new Jalli titanium heater, with my old Jager backing it up. I am shooting for at least 78 in the am. The ATO is next and probably a controller after that....Yes dear, the tank is almost done.
 
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