fritz rpm

I switched from Red Sea Pro to Fritz. Just purchased my 3 bucket. So far everything looks happy and no issues. My parameters ran high with Red Sea and they are much more "normal" with Fritz.
 
I just switched to fritz. Mag seems to run high. Everything else seems to be on par. I assume by normal they mean that the readings are more consistent with the standards and thought the entire batch. I've only made 2 batches so far my corals seem to be liking it.

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I've been running Fritz for 6 months, it's working well. Corals and fish are happy. I add makeup water with Kalc and add Magnesium every other week. Levels stay at 8.5dkh, 430 calc and 1425 mag (if I remember to add mag, my candy cane coral lets me know).
 
My parameters are more stable. With Red Sea Pro my Alk and Calc were thru the roof. My Calc always ran 550 and my Alk was consistently around 10DKH. I like the numbers much better with Fritz.
 
Same here. Like it so far. Seems consistent. My dKH is right at 8.5. Using kalk for my ATO. 10% water change per week (15gal).
 
Great info as I'm debating it too. I just found out Saturday about the IO/RC ownership change and quality issues that took place while I was away. Makes more sense I guess on why my bags of IO are mixing out so high. All over the Facebook groups I've been reading great things as well.

Only issue I've heard of so far was a few people having it still be cloudy after mixing 24 hours. Commonality seemed to be not having the RO water up to temp before mixing. Have you guys come across this?
 
I just mixed 230 gallons for the new tank. I mix at room temp water 68f. I'm on my 4th 55lb box of this stuff. Never had an issue with it. Typically it is clear in about 15 minutes. No residue either.
 
Here is my totally wrong way to water change, but it works every Saturday.
1) Friday night, kick on the rodi unit to the 30 gallon container.
2) Saturday am, container is full (float in bucket). Disconnect Rodi and test tdi (0). I check every time and it's zero.
3) dump in about 13 cups of salt and do the "wave the hand of god" routine until my hand hurts from the cold water. (Yea we all know that one, it makes this sporting).
4) toss in the power head to mix and aerate.
5) drive to 7-11 for my cup of Joe.
6) return and its clear. Refractometer and adjust to 1.025
7) take a gallon out and run up stairs, but it on the stove and boil it 10 minutes. (Clash of clans in between).
8) take that boiling hot gallon of water back down and dump in the bucket. Repeat 5 more times for a total of an hour (6 heats).
9) waters now as warm as tank water and mixed for an hour, go ahead and change.

Point is, the cold water didn't participate it, boiling didn't participate it. Water came out crystal clear, no issues. Only waited about an hour before using it. My corals always pop right up after the water change, and stay open hours after the lights go down and the night lights come up.
 
HerbC said:
Here is my totally wrong way to water change, but it works every Saturday.
1) Friday night, kick on the rodi unit to the 30 gallon container.
2) Saturday am, container is full (float in bucket). Disconnect Rodi and test tdi (0). I check every time and it's zero.
3) dump in about 13 cups of salt and do the "wave the hand of god" routine until my hand hurts from the cold water. (Yea we all know that one, it makes this sporting).
4) toss in the power head to mix and aerate.
5) drive to 7-11 for my cup of Joe.
6) return and its clear. Refractometer and adjust to 1.025
7) take a gallon out and run up stairs, but it on the stove and boil it 10 minutes. (Clash of clans in between).
8) take that boiling hot gallon of water back down and dump in the bucket. Repeat 5 more times for a total of an hour (6 heats).
9) waters now as warm as tank water and mixed for an hour, go ahead and change.

Point is, the cold water didn't participate it, boiling didn't participate it. Water came out crystal clear, no issues. Only waited about an hour before using it. My corals always pop right up after the water change, and stay open hours after the lights go down and the night lights come up.
Click to expand...

LOL... this is awesome. Maybe a silly question, but why not put a heater in with the powerhead, rather than going through the boiling process?



I've been thinking about making the change from RC simply to reduce residue, which I hate about RC (reef crystals, not reef central...)
 
I don't know why I didn't ever buy an extra heater. It just always worked the way I did it. Crazy process in the basement
 
I would be afraid boiling the saltwater would have some undesired effect on it. I just switched from tropic marin bio actif to tropic Marin pro reef but was and still am considering the fritz salt. With the bio actif I couldn't get any nitrates or phosphates due to the carbon source in the salt. My corals were real pale. They look much better now with my nitrates up to 4ppm.
 
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