From Disbelief to realization...

no skin peeling, looks more like dots or white specks on it

sorry for the video its tough to get a still close up with the lights and the movement lol
 
Craigdillman said:
no skin peeling, looks more like dots or white specks on it

sorry for the video its tough to get a still close up with the lights and the movement lol
Click to expand...

Then I would say it is probably Ich. All fish in that tank need to be treated, and the DT itself needs to be left fallow for a minimum of 72 days.
 
I would think tank transfer method would be difficult with many fish, if it were me I'd use Cupramine and besides it treats velvet just in case.
 
HumbleFish said:
If some of the fish are starting to look better, I'd say you are likely dealing with Ich instead of Velvet. With Velvet there is usually no getting better. They just go downhill fast and die.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is correct. In 3-5% of the velvet cases the fish can develop immunity; however, they still carry the parasite. The quickness of death counter-indicates ich.
 
Alright locked down a tank and just finishing up making the last of the water and I'm going to run out and get an ammonia badge also do I need prime or somesort of ammonia lock?

Got heater, air pump, a power head, copper test kits hang on filter( what do I need to run in here ? ) I have some filter floss or what should I use to sead the tank? Or how does that work

Also what about the mandrin... He looks healthy in the dt sniping pods
 
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You can't use ammonia neutralizers in conjunction with Cupramine; it turns the copper toxic.

You could run the mandarin thru TT (sticky here). Or take your changes treating him in copper.
 
ok thanks,

The mandarin as of today still eating shrimp so thats a good sign.

Now just to clarify the new tank won't cycle right cause I'm just adding water, and filter pads that i had in my sump right? So will it ever cycle or does it just cycle while the fish are in there and i do WC to bring levels down? can i add some sand or rock form sump ( assuming its no good after) to the QT to help or

Also does my cheato in my sump carry the ich as well? Cause could after I'm done treating with copper in my qt can i tear some cheato off and put it in the qt for pods for the mandarin to eat or would that possibly bring ich over to the qt while the main in fallow

I picked up a ammonia badge for the tank too
 
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Don't add any rock/sand/cheato to the QT. Rock/sand will absorb some of the copper, making it difficult to maintain a stable level. And adding anything from the DT (including chaeto) will likely add more Ich (but at a different life stage than the Ich currently in your QT) and disrupt the timing the copper needs to work it's magic.

Just adding water won't cycle anything. You will need to do WCs to keep the ammonia down (remember to add copper back to any replacement water - but not topoff). But describe these filter pads you had in your sump.
 
I thought I was supposed to "seed" some filter floss by putting it in my sump for a bit and then putting it in the hob filter for qt tank
 
Craigdillman said:
I thought I was supposed to "seed" some filter floss by putting it in my sump for a bit and then putting it in the hob filter for qt tank
Click to expand...

Yup, that should provide some biological filtration. How long were you able to seed it for? I usually leave mine down in the sump for about a month, but I understand you didn't have that kind of time.
 
Yea it's been over a week I guess now? Also what about if I put my used filter socks in there for a bit before I started dosing copper to seed or it that not really worth jt
 
I just had a eureka moment now that I'm 99.5% sure it's not velvet cause the rest of the fish look pretty normal not getting worse I can probably do hypo and avoid the copper thing and that should be way less harsh on the fish
 
Craigdillman said:
I just had a eureka moment now that I'm 99.5% sure it's not velvet cause the rest of the fish look pretty normal not getting worse I can probably do hypo and avoid the copper thing and that should be way less harsh on the fish
Click to expand...

I'm no big fan of copper, but hypo is difficult to implement (successfully) and there are hypo resistant strains of Ich (see below):

More recently, studies have demonstrated different salinity tolerances among strains of Cryptocaryon. Yambot (2003) described one Taiwanese outbreak occurring in sea bream Sparus sarba at a salinity of 5 g/L, and another outbreak in sea perch Lates calcarifer occurring at a salinity of 10 g/L. These two strains were successfully propagated in the laboratory at 7 and 10 g/L, respectively, and are well below previously documented preferred salinities.
Click to expand...

Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164
 
snorvich,

I have read many of your posts... You are quite experienced with this. It must be easy for you to tell... however I am still confused on how to identify velvet vs ich or what it would have meant in the clown skin looked like it was coming off? I did read your sticky velvet vs ich / what treats what disease. Can we add to your sticky some photos?

Also the clown in this photo looks exactly like the clown of mine that died last night. No spots - just breathing heavy. I have one clown left and am trying to save him with the awesome help of this forum!! Why do you think brook?

Sorry to jump in on your thread Craig Dillman... I hope you have no more fatalities in your tank! We have similar story.. I had great luck with a 48 gallon FOWLR... for 10+ YEARS! I have a new 75 gallon reef waiting to be set up when my entire livestock died from either ich / velvet / ? I have one 10 year old clown I am trying to save... to start my new reef.

Good luck!

I would like to follow along if you want to update this thread with your status.. and share your Qt procedure and treatment. I am now leaning toward Cupramine always b/4 a fish enters my DT... b/c if you use hypo and it is velvet you have wasted your time...

Good luck!
Neptune
 
Yup I'll keep updating as I go this is my first and (hopefully last bout with this)

I think he leaned on the diagnosis of ich due to the fact that the rest of the fish now seem to not be getting worse and some (naso tang) almost getting 100% better and velvet you don't see any getting better it's all downhill so it's more a history diagnosis rather than a picture diagnosis
 
Seems a lot of people have trouble distinguishing between Ich & Velvet. The light has to hit the fish just right to notice gold dots (Velvet) instead of white dots (Ich). And with Velvet, the fish is almost always covered... whereas with Ich, the dots may be sporadic.

When in doubt, best to just treat with copper or chloroquine phosphate as those cover both. Don't chance it by treating with hypo or TT.
 
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