Full tank shots?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8018186#post8018186 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Desert Fox
Oops, two more things:

As Astro said above, i agree with stopping down the lens, but i'd go even beyond the f/8 to more like f/11 - f/13 or so. Somewhere between f/8 and f/16 is typically the sharpest region of the lens.

Also, try to zoom in some to get rid of the little barrel distortion the lens is producing. If you can, zoom to around 50mm or so to stay between the barrel and pincusion, and this should help the sharpness as well.

Will do Deser Fox.

I'll post it tonight, b/c during day time I have too many reflections from my windows.

James
 
Ok, thaks to all you help, I think I'm improving my picture taking skills. All taken w/ F-16, ISO 800. Which one do you like the best for my full tank shot?

Angle
fullanglefo0.jpg


Full
full2kk3.jpg


Full closer
fullla0.jpg


Cropped
fullf16zg7.jpg


Thanks,

James
 
Naka, I use the exact same setup (20D and same lenses).

Use the tripod.
Turn off IS on the 28-135
Square up exactly flat with the front glass (looks like you already are)
ISO 100
F/7.1 (My lens is sharpest at this ISO)
White Balance set to "K" and custom set to 10000K in the menu
Custom Function 12: Mirror Lockup, turn it on.
Timer, turn it on.

Fire at will, Captain! There will be 3 second delay between when you press the shutter release and when it takes the shot. This is because of the timer, and gives the camera a moment to stop shaking from your finger press.

I also set my camera to -2/3 EV and bump the brightness back up in Photoshop. This helps with the blown out areas. As a side note, if you have RAW editing capabilities, don't worry about the white balance part of the setup above.
 
heres a new shot of the tank... please let me know what you think of quality/setting , im always learning!

fulltank-01.jpg


tripod, no flash iso 400 i think awb was working better than white off white copy paper inside tank...
 
Thanks guys, I'm improving and learning more everyday. Thanks jwedehase, I'll try that setting tonight.

James
 
Naka,

I think a lot of your sharpness loss may be due to your downsizing of the picture, but it is hard to tell.

Here is one of your pics before, and after sharpening in Photoshop, and slight level adjustment too. Hope you don't mind.

Before:
fullf16zg7.jpg


After:
fullf16zg7b.jpg


Dan
 
The key to tank shooting is getting a small enough aperature to get DOF enough to be sharp all the way to the back of the tank. You can do that by controlling ISO setting, the camera you have is VERY tolerant of ISO levels, specially if you just need it for web pics. I consistently use my 20D (same noise handling) at ISO 1600 without flash, and the shots are FINE for web.

Also I agree with comments about Light in your camera's sensor that is probably messing with something, and about using a timer if you are on a tripod, not pushing it manually.

Also, sharpening your photos after resizing, that is a very important step that people forget. I see a TON of photos posted online that are just off being sharp because they looked great in full size but when down sized look just off. Proper sharpening (not going overboard) takes time and practice, but it is ESSENTIAL. It does not mean your photos are not sharp, I sharpen all mine still :) EVERY ONE.
 
Naka, it looks like to me like you are focusing on the glass and not the reef? The closer edgeof the tank seems to be crystal clear. Have you tried manually focusing on the reef?
 
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