General Plumbing Question from a Noob...Please Help

A

AUFishGuy

Member
i have everything ready for my new 90 gallon reef ready aquarium. I have ordered all of the equipment and made my sump. I made my very simple sump with a standard 29 gallon tank with 3 baffles. I have a mag 9.5 as my return pump. Now I need to plumb and water test but i have never done any type of plumbing. I understand the basic concepts but am a bit overwhelmed with knowing what i actually need. I am planning on using the flexible vinyl tubing but wouldnt be opposed to using PVC but i figured vinyl would be easier. So now with the questions.

1. What is the best way to connect my hosing to my bulkheads and the return pump?

2. what kind of valve would i need if i wanted to be able to restrict the flow of my return pump and will it easily connect to my tubing?

3. If glue is needed what type of glue?

4. Shouldnt there be some kind of valve coming from the bulkhead that brings water into the sump so that it can be closed? What kind of valve and will it just screw on to the bulkhead?

I know these are general questions and are probably easy to answer but i am just trying to figure out the best and quickest way to do this without wasting a bunch of money making mistakes. TIA
 
If you are new to plumbing, you want to get "slip" fittings. These are fittings that each part is permanently glued into the other. The screw ones leak if you know what you are doing so avoid them and avoid misery.

1. What is the best way to connect my hosing to my bulkheads and the return pump?

slip to barbed adapter

2. what kind of valve would i need if i wanted to be able to restrict the flow of my return pump and will it easily connect to my tubing?

Gate is best, ball will work

3. If glue is needed what type of glue?

PVC glue - sold in the plumbing store next to the PVC fittings

4. Shouldnt there be some kind of valve coming from the bulkhead that brings water into the sump so that it can be closed? What kind of valve and will it just screw on to the bulkhead?

see #2 - again, use slip, not screw

Just go to Home Depot/Lowes and get way more that you need. Use what you need and return the rest. Get schedule 40 PVC plumbing parts and you can also get flexible tubing if you want. Usually the return pump to the first part of your plumbing can be flexible tubing since it helps to isolate vibration. But the main plumbing connectors should be schedule 40 PVC stuff.
 
Great advice above. I'd recommend, however, learning how to properly use threaded connections. Why? Because that way when you do your next upgrade, you can reuse expensive gate valves, unions, etc.

Threaded is very easy, just make sure you use 5-6 "œrounds" of Teflon tape. Make sure the threads are nicely covered, and use a wrench to tighten.

If you're not concerned with throwing away large quantities of PVC, then I agree with the other post: use slip!
 
Another thing that I do: use threaded adapters on expensive parts like gate valves. Then I can reuse it in the future, and use slip for everything else. Plus, you can assemble the adapter and make it tight
 
Here's a decent tutorial on cementing PVC pipe. It's extremely easy to do. Get a couple extra fittings and some scrap pipe and practice a few times and you'll get the hang of it.

I second the advice to use slip fittings - easier and less likely to leak. Use unions for sections you think you might want to take apart later on or that you need to rotate. Using threaded fittings on the gate valve is a good idea, though.

Note - even though they may seem tight, any slip fitting outside the tank must be glued Otherwise they will eventually leak or let go. Usually when you're not home.

As far as connecting your return pump to the bulkhead, it depends on the connection. If you can, use a threaded fitting and/or a union to connect the pump. You can use flexible vinyl tubing with a hose barb, but the hose barbs are quite constricting and cut flow significantly. If you do use a hose barb with vinyl tubing, use reinforced tubing so it doesn't kink and use a plastic ratchet clamp instead of a metal hose clamp that will rust.

Don't use teflon tape for threaded PVC; use non-hardening pipe thread sealant. Note that PVC threads are tapered, so the more you tighten them, the more outward pressure they put on the joint. If you over-tighten a threaded bulkhead connection you will crack the bulkhead and cause it to leak.

Finally, post your proposed plans for people to look at before you start cementing stuff. You can save headaches and money by letting others catch your potential mistakes ahead of time.
 
My general plan is very simple. A valve on the drain bulkhead and then piping to the sump. And a valve on the output of the return pump and piping back to the return bulkhead. Is this too simple? Is there anything i am missing here? Also i was planning on using Vinyl since it is flexible but most above seem to be suggesting PVC. Is there a reason PVC is better?

I went in to Lowes thinking i knew what i was looking for but came out more confused. I didnt think i was a dumb person but this is starting to make me have doubts lol
 
You need plumbing that will match the size of the bulkhead. So if you have a 1" bulkhead, get 1" plumbing. I'd suggest getting 10 or so 90s, 10 or so 45s, 1 8ft straight pipe, 4 or so unions and a ball or gate valve. Also might want to get some hangers to make it look nice. Don't forget PVC glue. All slip fittings. Also a PVC cutter tool. If you want to use some vinyl tubing, you will need a threaded to barbed connector to go from PVC to the vinyl. The threaded connector on that will need a 1" threaded to slip connector to attach to the rest of the plumbing.
 
If you plan on making minute adjustments don't even waste ur time with a ball valve. They are impossible to turn once you have water running through them. Anything bought from a local hardware t store will suck. Unless all you care about is open/close functions, I would invest in a gate valve. Most locals don't carry gate valves so your best bet would be to look online.
 
fishgate said:
You need plumbing that will match the size of the bulkhead. So if you have a 1" bulkhead, get 1" plumbing. I'd suggest getting 10 or so 90s, 10 or so 45s, 1 8ft straight pipe, 4 or so unions and a ball or gate valve. Also might want to get some hangers to make it look nice. Don't forget PVC glue. All slip fittings. Also a PVC cutter tool. If you want to use some vinyl tubing, you will need a threaded to barbed connector to go from PVC to the vinyl. The threaded connector on that will need a 1" threaded to slip connector to attach to the rest of the plumbing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this...The guys at lowes made it more complicated. I will get all of that and see how it goes. I believe the bulkheads are slip as well. It has groves on the outside but they arent threads and it is tapered down from the size of the side that will be in the tank..is that normal?
 
sadt3arz said:
If you plan on making minute adjustments don't even waste ur time with a ball valve. They are impossible to turn once you have water running through them. Anything bought from a local hardware t store will suck. Unless all you care about is open/close functions, I would invest in a gate valve. Most locals don't carry gate valves so your best bet would be to look online.
Click to expand...

I need it this weekend so ordering something online is out of the question. So you are saying that if i use a ball valve on the bulkhead that is draining from the tank to the sump that i wont be able to close it and i wont be able to restrict flow from my return pump? Why?
 
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The grooves on the outside of the bulkhead are for the nut that holds the bulkhead in place. the PVC pipe goes on the inside of the bulkhead. if that's smooth, it's a slip connection bulkhead, if there are grooves on the inside its a threaded. (you can also have slip-threaded & threaded-slip)

The people at Lowes aren't going to be too much help four our application - it's not typical plumbing. If you tell them "I need to connect a 1" hose to a 1.5" pipe, they can help you with that, but otherwise not so much.

The problem with vinyl tubing is that the barbed connecters are very constricting and add a lot of resistance to the circuit, reducing flow.

How were you planning on doing your overflow? Bean, herbie, durso, etc? Post a picture of your plans & Let people look it over. Whether your plans are appropriate or not depends on your goals.
 
sleepydoc said:
The grooves on the outside of the bulkhead are for the nut that holds the bulkhead in place. the PVC pipe goes on the inside of the bulkhead. if that's smooth, it's a slip connection bulkhead, if there are grooves on the inside its a threaded. (you can also have slip-threaded & threaded-slip)

The people at Lowes aren't going to be too much help four our application - it's not typical plumbing. If you tell them "I need to connect a 1" hose to a 1.5" pipe, they can help you with that, but otherwise not so much.

The problem with vinyl tubing is that the barbed connecters are very constricting and add a lot of resistance to the circuit, reducing flow.

How were you planning on doing your overflow? Bean, herbie, durso, etc? Post a picture of your plans & Let people look it over. Whether your plans are appropriate or not depends on your goals.
Click to expand...


The plumbing kit that came with it is set up for an durso overflow, i believe. I will try and draw something up or put up a mock design somehow but in the meantime....

below is a link to a pic of what the bulkhead looks like. It is different from most of the the other pictures i see of them as it is tapered. All of the others i see seem to be the same diameter for the length of the bulkhead. The groves at the end are what i was referring to earlier, they are not threads.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dee...pvc.com%2FindexBulkheadFittings.shtml;125;100
 
AUFishGuy said:
The plumbing kit that came with it is set up for an durso overflow, i believe. I will try and draw something up or put up a mock design somehow but in the meantime....

below is a link to a pic of what the bulkhead looks like. It is different from most of the the other pictures i see of them as it is tapered. All of the others i see seem to be the same diameter for the length of the bulkhead. The groves at the end are what i was referring to earlier, they are not threads.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dee...pvc.com%2FindexBulkheadFittings.shtml;125;100
Click to expand...

If that is your bulkhead fitting, that is designed to take a flexible tubing instead of PVC. The output shaft is barbed. So you'd put a tube on it and then a clamp. If you use this, then whatever that is is the size you need to make all of your plumbing unless you get an adapter to size it up. But honestly I would not use that and get a normal bulkhead. That is unusual.

BUT, you could go with that and just get a flexible tube and go from there to your sump. How you are going to keep it where you want it might be tough. I guess you could clamp it somewhere. The schedule 40 PVC is rigid and easy to make it go where you want.

BarbBulkheadFitting1.jpg
 
fishgate said:
If that is your bulkhead fitting, that is designed to take a flexible tubing instead of PVC. The output shaft is barbed. So you'd put a tube on it and then a clamp. If you use this, then whatever that is is the size you need to make all of your plumbing unless you get an adapter to size it up. But honestly I would not use that and get a normal bulkhead. That is unusual.

BUT, you could go with that and just get a flexible tube and go from there to your sump. How you are going to keep it where you want it might be tough. I guess you could clamp it somewhere. The schedule 40 PVC is rigid and easy to make it go where you want.

BarbBulkheadFitting1.jpg
Click to expand...

Gotcha so to use this i would have to go with vinyl tubing and clamp it on? That seems risky, i feel like it would eventually slip and fall off and that makes me want to go with a normal one and use PVC. Also how would i put a valve on the bulkhead if i were to use this one? Will Lowes or Home Depot have a normal bulkhead that i can use instead? I'm guessing if not my LFS may have them. ughh my current tank is coming down tomorrow so i have to get this done this weekend or as soon as i possibly can. I know my fish will be ok in a rubbermaid for a day or so but i dont want to push it.

Also that design seems like it would cut down on flow which i dont want.
 
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The other option, which is probably the best option, is to sit back, relax, and regroup. Set your tank up, sans sump, just lower the water level or else put in the bulkhead and close it off with a ball valve. When you are settled, make the plumbing plan and then move forward.

To use this and block it off, you'd need:

[bulkhead][tubing][barb to screw][screw to valve] if you can find that setup. You might need to use adapters and such. Show the guy at Lowes the bulkhead and tell him you need to all the connections to shut that off. Hopefully they have everything.

The clamp is ok to use long-term btw. I use them myself. Just get a stainless steel worm clamp and make sure the tubing is sized properly to the barb fitting. It isn't under pressure so it will not come off.
 
I agree with the sit bac, relax and regroup suggestion, but personally, I think you're better off taking the time to figure out the plumbing now, before you set up your tank. When all is said and done, You may well be better off with regular bulkheads instead of the barbed ones, and changing bulkheads after a tank is up and running is a big PITA.
 
sleepydoc said:
I agree with the sit bac, relax and regroup suggestion, but personally, I think you're better off taking the time to figure out the plumbing now, before you set up your tank. When all is said and done, You may well be better off with regular bulkheads instead of the barbed ones, and changing bulkheads after a tank is up and running is a big PITA.
Click to expand...

I just gut regular bulkheads from my LFS and the quality is much better than the one that came in the plumbing kit. These are threaded bulkheads.

I want to say thanks again to everyone in this thread. You have all been extremely helpful and patient with my ignorance to all of this. It is appreciated.
 
Marine depot sells SpaFlex by the foot. You can get it in long lengths like 50 feet which I use for water changes and it is very flexible and less expensive then the common flex joints I have seen. They also sell Y fittings which do not cause the huge flow restrictions that a T fitting does. Every fitting and joint you use reduces the flow as much as a foot of hose does or 3 feet in the case of T or 90 degree fittings.
To replace a threaded to slip adaptors and a length of tube when going from slip to threaded fittings, I like to use what are commonly called risers at the hardware stores. They are usually gray, threaded on both ends and come in a verity of lengths. 3-4" is what I use the most. I cut them in half or what ever length you need. Much shorter and cleaner looking then a slip adaptor and short length of tube.
 
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