Generator question

[natas]

Ok so I have researching and the more I research the more questions I ask myself.

Here is my plan. I want to purchase a unit capable of 5000 to 6000 watts and hook it up to a manual transfer switch. The goal is to power my tank, some lights in the house and fridge. I'm sure you guys have seen this too many times. However I want to be safe and protect my electronics. The generators I have seen capable of powering that much are not inventor style generators. And the inventor generators I have seen cannot be hooked up to a transfer switch. They also cost a lot more. So I was thinking just put line conditioners on the two dedicated circuits I use for my tank. Would that solve the issue and protect my apex, Dc Pumps, lights etc?

If the answer is yes what about gfci? Both of my outlets for the tank are gfci. If I use a line conditioner will it work with gfci outlets? Would I still be protected with gfci?

 

[ca1ore]

My portable generator is supposed to be usable for sensitive electronics. Of course, all you really need forvthectank is the main pump, powerheads and heat. Apex can be left off.

 

[natas]

Which generator do you have. And I agree you don't need the apex, but powerheads and my pump are dc.

I am also reading that some of these generators have voltage regulators. I am notban eectrician but I am hearing that this option makes them safe to run "sensitive" electronics. Is this true?

 

[soulpatch]

I personally run this one and have never had any issues with electronics in the few years I have had to use it. It gets used probably a minimum of 10 days a year and I run the entire tank off of it via its own GFCI breaker without issue.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-6...nerator-with-Yamaha-MZ360-RD906814P/203183985

It powers my home's lights, fish tank, fridge, mini fridge, tvs, internet, surround sound, and what not. The only thing in the house I dont run with it on is my HVAC since I am a heat pump unit and the condensor outside draws too much but space heaters or fans when needed work just fine.

 

[jda]

With a manual transfer switch and portable-type generator, you are going to have to flip all the breakers off in your main box except for the tank. You can turn a few back on as you need them. You won't be able to do too much at once, but you can get by just fine if you stagger the microwave with the stove with the fridge, etc.

I would not trust any really nice electronics with most generators that you see at Harbor Freight or the run-of-the-mill stuff at Home Depot. If you get a generator in like the $1k range, or up, then I might be more open to it. Just because they say that they are safe does not mean that they really are... and you can read all kinds of internet posts about TVs, iMacs, etc. getting fried by them.

I used to backfeed through my dryer outlet with a 50 foot cord. Be sure and flip the main breaker so that you don't send anything back up the line that could shock a lineman. Then, we got a standby with a ford 6 cylinder engine in it that could run the whole house. This was in Missouri where storms would have us out two or three weeks a year although usualy a few days at a time. Since moving to Colorado, we have not been without power for more than 2-3 minutes in all the years.

 

[BlackTip]

I did exactly what you are planning to do. I bought a 9k watt generator, a manual transfer switch, and I can power the tank, refrigerator, the office, bedroom, and some more.

I bought a generator that has low harmonic distortion (LHD). I installed a GFCI plug in every outlet that will be powered by the generator. I have two dedicated circuits with power panel circuit breakers for the tank. Each outlet, I added an GFCI adapter then connected to Apex power bar. Same for the refrigerator and couple other outlets for electronics.

It is not fire-proof, but it is the best way I know off without breaking the bank an inverter generator.

 

[soulpatch]

With a manual transfer switch and portable-type generator, you are going to have to flip all the breakers off in your main box except for the tank. You can turn a few back on as you need them. You won't be able to do too much at once, but you can get by just fine if you stagger the microwave with the stove with the fridge, etc.

Depends on the genny power ratings. Only thing I kill in my house is power to water heater (which to your point I can power if not powering my home theater room) and HVAC. Everything else can stay on and the genny idles up and down as needed.

I would not trust any really nice electronics with most generators that you see at Harbor Freight or the run-of-the-mill stuff at Home Depot. If you get a generator in like the $1k range, or up, then I might be more open to it. Just because they say that they are safe does not mean that they really are... and you can read all kinds of internet posts about TVs, iMacs, etc. getting fried by them.

While I agree with harbor freight level type of units most big name brands are pretty even these days. I have a Honda invertor gen for my race bike trailer and track days and the rigid for the home. I think most with quality engine and rating to be clean are good to go these days. I actually think the issue comes from them not all having idle down so that it is sending full power when its not needed. The units that measure need and adjust accordingly are something that would be on my must have list. Also units with a honda or yamaha engine (similar to Rigid using a Yamaha engine)

 

[ca1ore]

I personally run this one and have never had any issues with electronics in the few years I have had to use it. It gets used probably a minimum of 10 days a year and I run the entire tank off of it via its own GFCI breaker without issue.

Nice, that's the exact same one I have. works fine, though I still don't really trust it with $$ electronics. Just have to live with my apex and audiophile gear when the power is off.

 

[ca1ore]

With a manual transfer switch and portable-type generator, you are going to have to flip all the breakers off in your main box except for the tank.

Depends on the kind of transfer switch. I certainly don't have to do all that.

 

[soulpatch]

Never had an issue with the apex in the last 2+ years. I would be more concerned about my home theater setup as well but I have never had a blip. I do have a power strip the audio gear all plugs into that is supposed to smooth power as well so who knows. My gaming PC rig and other things all operate off of normal plugs with no issue.

I think if you test the unit you would find it is pretty darn close to a Yamaha invertor gen. Heck the power coming into your home normally has quite a bit of distortion especially during storms so as long as you are under a level of THD I dont think it matters.

 

[soulpatch]

Nice, that's the exact same one I have. works fine, though I still don't really trust it with $$ electronics. Just have to live with my apex and audiophile gear when the power is off.

I shoudl also note if you have that one to really monitor the oil. It needs changed much more frequently than any other generator I have had before the internal oil sensor starts to trigger for either "low" oil or "sludgy" oil. I change mine out after almost every use due to this.

 

[neiltus]

I have several EU2000 honda I use for various things.

I have a 6 circuit transfer switch-each circuit has line/generator/off 3 way switch. Transfer switches vary and some can be just as simple as another breaker box with additional breakers.

With one EU2000, I can power:
2-sub zero fridges (each has 2 compressors)
a few lights
TV
small window unit or both my squirrel cages to run gas heat.
garage door as needed.
But I can't have every electric motor come on at the same time...lol.

The downside of most generators is the gas used and the carb needing worked on if not drained. I have a few carbs, can swap out and clean one while other is running.

EU2000 has an inverter, it runs fine through a transfer switch. I use an RV 30a cable to plug into the switch.

I keep about 10gallons of Chevron tech track to run most generators and yard things, it's pretty clean gas, ethanol free, slightly higher octane, runs stuff cooler and does not gum carbs up as quick.

The bowl on honda generators is a crappy design.

The upside of a smaller generator is longer run time on lower amounts of gas. If your running a small one at max, you will gain noise and loose some efficiency.

 

[natas]

Neiltus what transfer switch are you using? I ask because the hookup from the inverter generators to transfer switch seems less obvious then the others.

 

[homer1475]

I run a cheap no name 9k generator I got from TSC(think it was like 300$ bucks on clearance). It runs a no name engine and I use it at least a few hours nearly every week this time of year. I have mine hooked up so everything I want to power is on one side of my panel box, I flip the main breaker and plug in the genny.

I've never had any issues with any sensitive electronics in the last 10 years I've used it, Including my PC's, TV's, home theater system, apex, pellet stove, etc.

 

[jda]

Turn the fuel off and let the genny run until it stops. This will keep most carbs from gumming in.

Neiltus is right - find some pure gasoline fuel... it stores better.

 

[neiltus]

I don't know the name of my transfer switch. It connects to the generator via a 30amp RV cord.

kinda looks like this...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reliance-3..._clickID=f273b482-4584-4aa1-b6c6-497912afdbb4

however, you need to 'match' the transfer switch to the generator. Some 110 generators only have 110 plugs.

Your best bet is figuring out what circuits you need to run, count the number, sum the amps, then look at generators, then buy the transfer switch.

Your needs will be different if running a welder or central AC.