GEO Club...

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I just got mine this week as well, 624, and I had the same problem as you. I put some silicone grease on the O-Ring and it's been perfect ever since!

Getting the water out after the leak test was kind of a pain. I siphoned most of it out then just carried the unit to the sink when it was low enough.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6829090#post6829090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chetm2
I just got my Geo 624 Calcium Reactor and had a question about how much flow you want going thru it. I am using a maxijet 1200 and it leaked at the top and I had the top screws pretty tight. I'm was just water testing it as I don't have my tank yet. Also what's the best way to empty the water out of it? I unscrewed the top piece and the bottom and drained it at an angle to keep water off of the pump. Is there an easier way? The craftsmanship on this thing is amazing. I'm really thinking about selling my brand new ASM G4X and getting a Geo skimmer.. Thanks for any help.
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6829801#post6829801 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cward
I think I'm feeding about 400 gph thru mine but I'm not sure. My skimmer is fed from my external overflow thru a 1" hose, and my ball valve is open about 70%.
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Thanks Tonym10 and cward.

That seems awfully low to me but them I'm used to ~900-1000gph with my becket. Can you push more?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6830264#post6830264 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cward
Yep, mine can easily handle the ball valve wide open. (gravity fed thru 1" tube)
Click to expand...

So in your opinion it can handle how many gph? 600? 800? 1000?

Also why do you guys not run the full amount through the skimmer. I understand the theories behind increased contact time and I am assuming that's it but thought I would ask.

thanks, Chris
 
Are you refering to recirculating needle wheel skimmer?
Recirculating needle wheel skimmers are not designed for that much movement threw them, unless it was really huge.
That is the reason for getting a recirculating model, to control the contact time in the skimmer rather then have the needle wheel pump controlling the turnover time too quickly.
The recomended turnover in the skimmer is 1.5 - 2 x tank volume.
If you pushed that much water threw the skimmer that fast it would have no time for protein skimming.
Its the needle wheel pump that turns the water over in the skimmer fast. The GenX6000 pump is a 2500g/hr pump before the needle whell mod.
 
I guess I was not aware that the recommended flow through for recircs was that low. I was thinking one could easily push 600-800gph through one and have the best of both worlds. Doesn't a needlewheel have to be a recirc to be run external....ie a pump for air injection and a pump to supply water to the skimmer?
thanks, Chris
 
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But the benefit of going to the recirculating design is so you can slow the dwell time in the skimmer. Otherwise you could just save money and not go recirc if you just want the water to flow out quickly.
 
Thinking about getting the Calcium Reactor 612 and had a few Q's. So on top of the reactor the few things I need to get are tank, regulator, controller, schuran media and brass check valve? Is this regulator and controller alright for this reactor(Milwaukee SMS122 pH Controller / MA957 Regulator Combo) from ebay for 170 shipped? If I understand right this reactor has a hole in the top for a ph probe but I had planned on having the probe a cup in the sump with effluent. Which way is best and how are you guys and girls reacting? With the schuran media you want the ph lower in the reactor so I guess you might need the probe in the reactor to see what it is running at right? New to all this calc reactor stuff. I was originally planning on getting the MRC but geo seems to be the better option and just a few dollars more.
 
In my opinion, you dont need a controller for the reactor...you only need a monitor. My GEO-612 that I just bought was set up in 3 days without a controller. The drip rate is rock solid. You can control the CO2 solenoid with a controller to measure your tank pH, but that's up to you. Only a monitor probe is needed in the reactor. This will save you $80-$90.

If you do get a monitor, make sure that it shuts off when the pH goes on a downswing, not on the upswing. In other words, I bought an SMS122 and thought that it would shut the CO2 off when the tank pH got to 7.9..but the stock SMS122 only shuts off when the pH goes up to a set level. The manufacturer can mod you one for a fee to work with a calcium reactor...but the stock ones arent set up that way.

I would place the probe in the reactor and not use a cup...much cleaner setup that way.

Yes, you will need a tank, CO2 reg, reactor, media, and pH monitor.
 
I must have Geo burn out. My calcium reactor wasnt working properly today. The drip rate was real slow. In the past all I had to do was open the drip valve to clear out the line then it ran fine, today there was no pressure. I couldnt find anyhting wrong, so I took upart the reactor to clean it out and replace media. I also took apart the pump to see if it needed cleaning , it didnt.
But then when I got everything back together the pump leaked at the seal. I have an extra mag2 pump. Figured I would replace the pump, just unscrew the fittings from the old pump and screw them into the new pump. So after draining the reactor for the second time I removed the old pump to swap pumps. Finished the job, got it runing again, started to clean up, noticed the new pump still next to its box, unbelievable. Somehow I removed the old pump only to put the old pump back on, what a waste of time. I will leave this for tomorow, its a real slow leak.
I must be too tired.
 
I'm still only getting large bubbles and little froth. Are you guys limiting the air supply in anyway?

Tony the stats on the GX6000 show it's rated for 1587 GPH.
 
reefkeeps , actually I meant to say 1500 , I didnt even notice I typed 2500.
Thats how my nights going.
How long have you had your skimmer running?
I have ran mine with no valve in the air line and also with the air valve in the line wide open and partially closed.
I have decided I like it with valve in the line but in the wide open setting.
 
It came with one
A little black one like the kind on the end of a calcium reactor line to adjust drip rate.
 
Tonym10,
I see you have a geo recir. skimmer and a 75 gallon tank. Were you able to get it under the stand and if so how did you do it and still have room for a sump? I am trying to figure out how to do it and have a decent sump with an external pump. I am going to put my calcium reactor behind the tank if I figure out how to work this. What size is your sump?
 
I contacted Geo to see how he runs hiss reacotrs. He said he runs them wide open , but the air valve is there for adjustment if wanted.
I ran mine for three days each, wide open no vlave, wide open with valve , and partilly closed.

Wide open no valve seemed ok at first for me, but then the second day it didnt seem to skim too good, like the bubbles were too and violent and popped before raising foam.

Partially closed it skimmed ok, but less then with the valve in place wide open.

I also ran it with an air flow meter to measure the air.
At wide open(no valve) the air flow was about 700L/hr, and that is where the skimming did not skimm well becuase large bubbles burst before allowing a good foam head.
Partially closed to about 500L/hr it skimmed nicely.
 
docwells I have a fish room next to the room my tank is in.
Here is a picture
56520543.jpg
 
I have had it for about three weeks, I really like the way it looks but I'm not getting the skimming I expected, I'll try and get and get my hand on that valve.
 
I just added the IO bucket , it is a remote deep sand bed to help with my nitrates. The skimmer output goes into it and then it flows back to sump from there.
When you get a valve and you close it down some or just push it in the line, as that automaticllay makes the line closed down some, you will notice the dense white bubbles in the body of the skimmer go deeper down the body , the more you close it the farther down they go, all the way to the bottom if you really have it closed down alot.
I have found that with the dense white bubbles about midway from where they are with no valve on the air line and where it gets to when you have it closed down some is a good setting.
For me that is with the air valve in place but set all the way open
 
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