gettin ready to upgrade, need advice

saltburns

saltburns

New member
I am wanting to upgrade to a 125. I remember seeing one for $300, but it didnt have the built in overflow, I went to Memphis to Something Fishy last weekend and was checking out some of theirs. Nice tanks with the built in overflow and stands but kinda pricey. Also been looking on ebay but nothing close enough to home. How much better is it to have the built in overflow? Is it worth the extra $$?
 
Check at Memfish. Something Fishy is very pricey on pretty much everything...
You could also keep an eye on craigslist.
 
saltburns said:
I am wanting to upgrade to a 125. I remember seeing one for $300, but it didnt have the built in overflow, I went to Memphis to Something Fishy last weekend and was checking out some of theirs. Nice tanks with the built in overflow and stands but kinda pricey. Also been looking on ebay but nothing close enough to home. How much better is it to have the built in overflow? Is it worth the extra $$?
Click to expand...

:wavehand: Robin and I hope to "upgrade" as well before long and I personally would pay the extra for a drilled tank with overflow.

Ditto as well to what Marty (Makoshark) said about Kermits Reef and Memfish they have always been great supporters of the club and will work with you to make sure that you are getting what you want(or need). I would also say that "all tanks are NOT created equal". The thickness and the type of glass and quality of construction are a factor as well as a guarantee. You do not want to save 100.00 and then have to tear it all back down and spend the money all over again to buy a replacement.

I am the ultimate in "cheap" but I would be cautious of cheap show tanks, decide what you really want, then go for it!!. Good luck!!
 
To further Bill's point: "all tanks are NOT created equal"....

MemFish has a brand new line of tanks they're carrying and the glass is REDUCED in thickness, because ALL Panels are tempered! (I know, right??)

The tempering process occurs after they've been drilled, so obviously you either Order them, or you buy std. pre-drilled tanks, but they're super lightweight as a result.

I just thought I'd mention it.
 
thanks for the replys. I have decided that since I will probably be in the hobby for quite some time that I want to do this right. I think I want the built in overflow. Jason, does the tank your selling have that? Also, I'm wanting a couple of tangs in this tank and I've read that it's best to have a tank that is long so that they have more swimming space, is that so?
 
I had a 6'' hippo and 5'' yellow in my 120,They seemed fine but the tank is really was to small for them.They really like the extra room now.I would aleast do a 6' tank.
 
send Rendos a pm i think he just took down a complete 125 setup....probably get a good deal on it...i think it has everything
 
question, so the tanks that are tempered on all sides with the thinner glass are better or worse? Also Im not sure whether to buy the stand and canopy with it or have someone make it.
 
custom is stronger and more to your individual taste. I would have one built, there are lots of cabinet makers that are reef heads and better understand the way they need to be built.
 
Can anyone answer about the thinner tempered glass, is it better? Also I'm thinking about taking a tube of silicone and scribbling a bead of it on the bottom inside of the tank for cushion and stability of my rocks when I set them in, anybody see a problem with this?
 
saltburns said:
Can anyone answer about the thinner tempered glass, is it better? Also I'm thinking about taking a tube of silicone and scribbling a bead of it on the bottom inside of the tank for cushion and stability of my rocks when I set them in, anybody see a problem with this?
Click to expand...

The advantage about the thinner glass is simply this: Weight. But once the tank is set in its final resting place, its a lost value. (So if you've got a couple big dudes around to help move the tank, its really a moot point. I just thought it was cool, especially if you're shipping the tank.)

As to the silicone... Why not. It seems like it would limit slippage of the base rock, until such time as you could "key-in" other rock, on those mating surfaces and then later add your live sand.

I wouldn't advise "gluing" the LR to the bottom of the tank though, because it could make changing the LR in the future a "sticky problem".

I think you would want to cut the caulking tube low (for a nice fat bead of silicone) and then apply it to the bottom of a dry tank. Let that dry and set overnight. THEN, land your rock on the "speedbumps" to limit slippage as you aquascape. Add your live sand last. Interesting concept. :idea:


You can also use plastic "pins" and drill each piece of rock in order to pin the two pieces together, via a simple slip fit. Live rock is uber porous and can be readily drilled with (even an old) masonry bit.
 
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Have ordered my tank. Could someone give me some basic tips about the best way to go about transferring all my stuff to the new tank?
 
Just did this last month my self. I moved from a 55 gal to a 125 gal. Will the new tank be set up in current tank position? If so, this will make it easier. I used furniture sliders and placed under my old tank stand and slid it away from the wall keeping everything still plugged in. I then set up the tank in the resting position and filled with new sand and fresh saltwater. Also, Rendos at Memfish advised that I use Stability per the instructions to prevent new tank syndrome. Once everything's been set up and in place bring up your temps and check all parameters. After waiting 48 hours and everything in check I then simply moved over all live rock, coral and fish. To date, no problems at all thanks to the help from Memfish. Good luck!
 
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like this may be a little easier than I thought. The new tank is going on a different wall so I can leave the other one going as long as I need to. One thing I'm trying to figure out is about anemones. I have two bubble tips and was wanting to get them off the rocks that they're attached to. whats the best way to do this?
 
saltburns said:
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like this may be a little easier than I thought. The new tank is going on a different wall so I can leave the other one going as long as I need to. One thing I'm trying to figure out is about anemones. I have two bubble tips and was wanting to get them off the rocks that they're attached to. whats the best way to do this?
Click to expand...

I have seen them genly "pried" off with a credit card. Did not seem to hurt the two that I saw moved in that way and they are both still alive and splitting after 2 years.

and PS I do hope you realize that Oceon Blue was joking about the Aptasia X !!
 
Yes I was joking! ha ha. But seriously, I have gotten them off using a straight plastic edge like a credit card stated above. If your careful, and you can remove the rock from the tank, you can get a flathead screwdriver and kinda chip the rock away around the foot of the nem just make sure that you do not stab the nem in the process. I have done that a few times also after the credit card trick didnt work.
 
Shoot... for that matter, my BTA's have never stayed where I wanted them, even after I had them in nice snuggly tight places, surrounded on three sides like they like.

Put them in Direct Light and THEY'LL MOVE off any rock!!
 
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