Giganteas

82ndengineer

New member
Where have people reliably sourced S. Giganteas. Have most of you walked into LFS's and rescued them or is there a good source for them online. I check DD like a hawk and have not seen any in a while. I'd like to find one similar to orion's . I'm so envious of that one.
 
Best of luck. There is not a good source out there. I have try to get a Gigantea for a very long time. Although I only have mine for about 2 months, I think it is up to me at this time that my Gigantea live or die, which is the best I can hope for with these anemones. From reading most of the Gigantea threads on RC, the most common source of Giganteas were "luck". Several reefers spend a lot of money on online vendors, some got healthy ones that live but most did not. I was in your position for a very long time.

Best of luck again.
 
I would never in a million years, buy a gigantea online. There are just too many subtle things you have to be able to see to determine if it is healthy. There is no way you can do it with pictures.
 
What are the things you need to look for in a LFS to see if a gig is healthy or not? What signs are you looking for to determine whether or not you should purchase?
 
Imo look for a....

1) firm stance
2) tight mouth
3) stickyness...


But the small one i have i bought was completely bleached...almost clear...but still was semi sticky...had a firm look to it...and a tight mouth...nearly 6 months later i have a almost fully recovered gig...

The large one i have pretty much had spot on everything i look for...firm look..tight mouth...sticky...and wasnt really bleached at all
 
I kinda figured the online route would be a shot in the dark unless it was dd. I'm hoping some of the LFS here will pony up and order one or get one by mistake. I've had good luck with mag's that have shown up in phoenix.
 
As others have mentioned, there are no reliable online retailers when it comes to gigantea. This is not a result of a bad retailer, but in the animal itself. DD hasn't had any in quite a long time, and while I trust DD, I think the problem is that gigantea are terrible shippers. Even a healthy gig that's been quarantined and deemed healthy for shipment can quickly take a turn. I haven't pinpointed the cause yet, but I suspect it has to do with the nem's need to expel zooxanthellae while in transit.

That said, many gigs that you see in the store may appear to be healthy, but in reality they are not. Most have a pastel color, which is not a good sign since all healthy gigs I have seen have a brown hue to them, aside from their accent color -- purple, green, mauve, yellow, blue, etc. This brown is a sign of a healthy zooxanthellae population.

Aside the from the suggestions previously posted, my only other suggestion is to try to work out a deal with your LFS. Once they get a gig in and you feel like it's a good one to purchase, ask to put a down payment and then have them hold it for you for three weeks. This allows the nem to recover from shipping stress. If it dies, then you lose your deposit. This assumes that the LFS are able to care for the gig, with high light, high flow, and away from other anemones to prevent allelopathy.

Strangely enough, if you happen to find a bleached gig, I recommend it over one with color -- in the past few months a few people (Reef1589 being one of them) have purchased bleached gigs and all have pulled through. This enforces my hypothesis that zooxanthellae somehow affect a gig in transit.
 
Here is my list of things to look for in buying a health gigantea.

In the order that I notice them, not in the order of importance.
1. Not bleached
2. Tight mouth
3. Disk held strongly above the substrate. (The disk is the area where the tentacles are located) You don't want a "floppy" anemone.
4. Tentacles at least 1/2" long.
5. Are there other dead anemones in the tank. (They died of something, probably an infection. That healthy anemone you are looking at may have the same infection, its just not that far along yet.)
6. Active feeding response (Have the LFS feed it in front of you a watch it pull the food all the way into its mouth) Don't fall for the, "we just fed it" routine. If it is healthy, it will still react, even if they just fed it right before you walked in the door.
7. No holes with "spaghetti" coming out of them under the foot. If it passes the other tests and you want it, check the foot after they dislodge the anemone and before they bag it. If you see any white squiggly things on the bottom of the foot, have them put it back. It is an absolute deal breaker.

Not all of these are deal breakers for me, but if more than one thing is wrong, its not worth the chance.

Tight mouth, firm body and no foot damage are musts. Sometimes other dead/dying anemones will be enough to say no as well, but if it looks reeeeeally good, I still my take a chance.
If it is eating well, I can overlook slightly shorter tentacles and being a little bit bleached. If it has a good zooxanthellae population (the lower 3/4 of the tentacles are brown) and there is good tentacle length, I may be willing to over look a mediocre feeding response.

Here are two things that mean absolutely nothing.

1. Bright colors - I have read several times on this board that, "the colors are very vivid, so it must be healthy". WRONG! Anemones, like sps corals, tend to lose their vivid colors when they are in conditions less than ideal. Vivid anemones (especially blue and purple) just haven't been held in holding facilities very long. That could be a good thing, it could be a bad thing, depending on the facility. I know a guy who holds his anemones for months at his facility overseas. By the time he has them sent to him, they "know" aquarium life, but their colors aren't usually awesome. He has better success than most, but he still loses a few.

2. They are sticky to the touch - This means nothing. I have had giganteas in late stages of decomposition that I couldn't get off my hand without having the tentacles rip off and stick to my fingers. Anemones seem to me to have a feeding sting and a defensive sting. The defensive sting can be very powerful or it can be slight, but there is no feeding response associated with it. The defensive sting can happen when the anemone is a heap of goo. The feeding sting, with the anemone bringing the food to its mouth and extending its stomach, only happens when the anemone is relatively healthy.

That was a little more than I was expecting to write, but I hope it helps. :)
 
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1. For me, I must visit the anemone multiple times. If I trust the LFS, I asked if they have seen it deflated? Even anemone in poor health will look relatively good at times. Often check the anemone late in the day. If it deflates, it is late in the afternoon.
2. The anemone must be stiff and hold itself well against current especially Magnifica and Gigantea.
3. The mouth must be fleshy, may not be really tight but can't be open.
4. Bleach or not may not be really important for me as long as it is not totally bleached.
5. There must be no injury with inner poking through. Gigantea may have bald spots where tentacles ripped off from handling. These will heal fine and new tentacles will grow without problem.
I feel the same way about color and stickiness as Phil. Decomposing Gigantea tentacles will stick to your hand and get ripped off the rest of it's body. Bright color can be due to anemone shrinking. A deflated anemone looks much more colorful then a fully inflated ones.
 
oof, completely forgot about that, Foot is a must, inspect the foot after they dislodge it phender is def right there..
 
I also agree with Minh about visiting the anemone multiple times, especially giganteas. If I am interested, I will go back at least 3-4 times before I buy it. If someone buys it before me, it wasn't meant to be. I don't know if that has ever happened BTW. More often than not I spot something I don't like on the 2 or 3 visit and decide against getting it.
 
I feel the same way about color and stickiness as Phil. Decomposing Gigantea tentacles will stick to your hand and get ripped off the rest of it's body. Bright color can be due to anemone shrinking. A deflated anemone looks much more colorful then a fully inflated ones.

I completely agree. I had a dying gigantea and it was sticky while I was removing it from the tank. Furthermore, it shed its nematocysts and nearly killed a few of my corals.

I also agree that the bright color is due to the gig not being fully expanded, but also because the zoox have died, so there isn't a brown hue. I have yet to see a brightly colored, healthy gigantea (meaning no brown, all brightly colored). This is in contrast to haddoni, which are often brightly colored.
 
LFS for me and a random walk in at that. Nem was super sticky though bleached. Had been in the LFS for 2 weeks so I took a chance for $75.00 as it was blue, a color I always wanted in a gig. It was also super small for a gig which had me even more worried. Wasn't more than 3" when I purchased it. Got lucky I guess. Waiting to see how I do longer term but so far so good. Lots of brown zoox returning so I'm very hopeful that it's going to live a long and happy life with me.
 
Merfin how long ago did you get and how is it doing. I think I'm going to see if I can find someone at the lfs that is brave enough to order one for me and just see how it goes . What do you guys use for your nem QT a seperate tank or system or do you set up the system ahead of time that is going to be it's permanent home. I have three RBTA's and a mag so i don't want to lose them by throwing into the system I have running already. I have a 90 gallon semi cube ( 36L x 24 x 24) that I want to set up specifically for the GIG.
 
Merfin how long ago did you get and how is it doing. I think I'm going to see if I can find someone at the lfs that is brave enough to order one for me and just see how it goes . What do you guys use for your nem QT a seperate tank or system or do you set up the system ahead of time that is going to be it's permanent home. I have three RBTA's and a mag so i don't want to lose them by throwing into the system I have running already. I have a 90 gallon semi cube ( 36L x 24 x 24) that I want to set up specifically for the GIG.

I would set up the cube and wait... and wait... and wait... for the right gig. There isn't a proven way to QT gigs (no known meds to be 100% proven successful) so I don't see a reason to set up a QT tank. Plus, I would never add a gig to a system with a mag and BTAs. The other option is to set up the 90 for the mag and BTAs, then switch things around once the gig is stable in the DT.

Gigs are not rare, so it shouldn't be problem for your LFS to order one for you. The LFS in my area choose not to order them since the survival rate is so low. Just make sure to specifically state that you want only a S. gigantea. Some wholesalers lists don't specify what type of Stichodactyla it is and refer to all of them simply as "carpet anemone", and will most likely ship a haddoni unless specified.
 
ibluewater has some..but i never order from them before. i just googled blue gigantea...

hm...how do i tell if a carpet is a gig or haddoni ?
 
Merfin how long ago did you get and how is it doing. I think I'm going to see if I can find someone at the lfs that is brave enough to order one for me and just see how it goes . What do you guys use for your nem QT a seperate tank or system or do you set up the system ahead of time that is going to be it's permanent home. I have three RBTA's and a mag so i don't want to lose them by throwing into the system I have running already. I have a 90 gallon semi cube ( 36L x 24 x 24) that I want to set up specifically for the GIG.

Mine is relatively new, think I am on week 8 or 9 with it. It's put on some size and the tentacles are elongating nicely since its introduction to the tank. It's also starting to brown up a bit and regain its zoox which is a good sign. From everything I read, I think I just got very lucky and found a hardy one. Certainly the LFS wasn't doing anything special for it and neither did I in terms of introduction to my tank. I temp acclimated and that's it. Put it right into my display tank. While not recommended, I have 3 RBTA in the same tank and so far, no problems at all for anyone. The RBTAs did close up for a day when I put the Gig in so they knew someone new was in the tank but since then, everyone is getting along fine. Hopefully you'll find a healthy one locally.
 
I believe that feeding response is a good predictor for success. The two of anemones that have done the best for me have had good feeding response from the very beginning. Recently I had 8 to choose from. I dropped mysis into all of them and picked the one that was the most aggresive in eating. There were two others that had good form as well(stiff body with good folds and darker coloration with better zooxanthellae population), but had lethargic feeding responses. I went with the gigantea that was more bleached but was very active.

IMO
Absolute requirements:
Good form with folds
Tight mouth
Active feeding

Relative requirements:
Zooxanthellae population
Tentacle groupings around the mouth

Non-requirements
Stickiness: I agree with the previous posters. Stickiness is meaningless - all of them are sticky. They will be deteriorating in the tank and still stick to your hand

My question is why are the anemones dumping zooxanthellaes during transit? Stress response? Poor oxygenation in the bag and getting rid of zooxanthellaes as a hypoxic response in order to reduce oxygen requirements?
 
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