Gimmito's 450 L-Shaped Display
- Thread starter gimmito
- Start date
jpsika08
New member
LOL, it does 
Jim, quick question, I think I will install a big UV unit on the DT, maybe the Emperor A. 150W which is up to 1,030 gallons, have you consider one for yours?
I think it can help control the Ich population at least, with this, as numbers will be lower fish will be more prone to fight it, what do you think?
Jim, quick question, I think I will install a big UV unit on the DT, maybe the Emperor A. 150W which is up to 1,030 gallons, have you consider one for yours?
I think it can help control the Ich population at least, with this, as numbers will be lower fish will be more prone to fight it, what do you think?
gimmito
New member
Juan,
I'm on the fence regarding the effectiveness of UV in the aquarium. The size, flow rate, bulb intensity/cleanliness, etc. are all factors. I have one and will probably install one on the makeup water instead. I listened to a podcast regarding quarantine by Dr. Timothy Miller-Morgan on MASNA Live. He suggested doing that to kill any bacteria in our makeup water. I never thought of that !
Here's a link to Lee Birches thread on UV & podcast on QT on the MASNA Livesite:
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f15/uv-u-me-37925/
http://recordings.talkshoe.com/TC-74311/TS-494740.mp3
I'm on the fence regarding the effectiveness of UV in the aquarium. The size, flow rate, bulb intensity/cleanliness, etc. are all factors. I have one and will probably install one on the makeup water instead. I listened to a podcast regarding quarantine by Dr. Timothy Miller-Morgan on MASNA Live. He suggested doing that to kill any bacteria in our makeup water. I never thought of that !
Here's a link to Lee Birches thread on UV & podcast on QT on the MASNA Livesite:
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f15/uv-u-me-37925/
http://recordings.talkshoe.com/TC-74311/TS-494740.mp3
jpsika08
New member
I was just reading that having a healthy aquarium which means water parameters in order, good flow, low stress environment can help fish fight off Ich better.
For example, I have had my Alk at 10.2 DKH, Ca at 400ppm and Mg at 1300 for the last two weeks, corals look healthy and even coraline algae is beginning to appear on the rocks here and there, these are important factors for combating the parasite.
I know my tank has the freaking little bugger, but I sure wish that giving the right foods (with garlic), good water params,etc helps avoid another outbrake, even the "outbrake" I had only caught on 1 fish as we are not sure if the Multicolor ever had it.
What is the Skin Scrape under the microscope thingy?
For example, I have had my Alk at 10.2 DKH, Ca at 400ppm and Mg at 1300 for the last two weeks, corals look healthy and even coraline algae is beginning to appear on the rocks here and there, these are important factors for combating the parasite.
I know my tank has the freaking little bugger, but I sure wish that giving the right foods (with garlic), good water params,etc helps avoid another outbrake, even the "outbrake" I had only caught on 1 fish as we are not sure if the Multicolor ever had it.
What is the Skin Scrape under the microscope thingy?
gimmito
New member
Juan,
I agree the old adage that we are taking care of our water parameters more so than its inhabitants to be true. If we keep consistant parameters, QT, don't overstock, have plenty of hiding spaces, feed well, etc. our animals will thrive. Unfortunately, we have a artificial enviroment that can never duplicate the ocean. Thus, disease and what not have to be addressed. In your case, you nipped it in the bud, but from my understanding cryptocaryon has to run its course without any host. This means running the tank fallow for a few months. Now, as a fellow "large tank" owner I know that's next to impossible. It seems the current fish have built a tolerance to the ich, but introducing new fish of course won't. If you could catch one fish and do a skin scrape (literally taking a skin sample with a blade) and placing under a microscope, it will be the only way to tell if the fish are still infected.
Maybe contacting a fish vet would help ?
I agree the old adage that we are taking care of our water parameters more so than its inhabitants to be true. If we keep consistant parameters, QT, don't overstock, have plenty of hiding spaces, feed well, etc. our animals will thrive. Unfortunately, we have a artificial enviroment that can never duplicate the ocean. Thus, disease and what not have to be addressed. In your case, you nipped it in the bud, but from my understanding cryptocaryon has to run its course without any host. This means running the tank fallow for a few months. Now, as a fellow "large tank" owner I know that's next to impossible. It seems the current fish have built a tolerance to the ich, but introducing new fish of course won't. If you could catch one fish and do a skin scrape (literally taking a skin sample with a blade) and placing under a microscope, it will be the only way to tell if the fish are still infected.
Maybe contacting a fish vet would help ?
gimmito
New member
Juan,
If it were my tank, I would go with number 1. Draining a tank is a last resort, I would partition off the tank with eggcrate first. I think the best way to catch the fish is by feeding and trapping. I don't know how your fish are, but mine will go into a Tupperware if there's food. lol. Another effective way is to turn on the lights at night when they are sleeping and will be disoriented by the bright lights.
I think a uv can't hurt, but I wouldn't rely on it. If you get one, get one with a wiper so it's easier to keep clean.
If it were my tank, I would go with number 1. Draining a tank is a last resort, I would partition off the tank with eggcrate first. I think the best way to catch the fish is by feeding and trapping. I don't know how your fish are, but mine will go into a Tupperware if there's food. lol. Another effective way is to turn on the lights at night when they are sleeping and will be disoriented by the bright lights.
I think a uv can't hurt, but I wouldn't rely on it. If you get one, get one with a wiper so it's easier to keep clean.
gimmito
New member
The first time recharging my Kati Ani resins. The Kati resins use a diluted mixture of muriatic acid and is slowly dripped for 30-45 minutes via a carboy. The Ani resins use a diluted mixture of sodium hydroxide and is slow dripped the same way. The resins are then flushed until zero TDS is achieved.
joao junior
New member
gimmito i pm you.
Brentley25
New member
Amazing Set up!
what does this resins do to your water?
The first time recharging my Kati Ani resins. The Kati resins use a diluted mixture of muriatic acid and is slowly dripped for 30-45 minutes via a carboy. The Ani resins use a diluted mixture of sodium hydroxide and is slow dripped the same way. The resins are then flushed until zero TDS is achieved.
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