Glass for sump baffles

[lcs]

Thanks for the bump, Gary, interesting read.

OK, here it is. Drain/skimmer on the left, then fuge, then return. Heaters will probably be in the return section and the reactors will hang just off to the right.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

what size is that sump?

 

[lcs]

30 long - 36x18x16high

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

5 baffles?

I'm sorry. I'm always baffled why people install so many baffles.

I prefer two baffles/good sump design 101: The first baffle to force water under and a second to force water over. Design your sump so heaters will ALWAYS be submerged.

A simple solution for a refugia is to sink a 2, 5 or 10 gallon aquarium in your sump. For example.. I took a 10 gallon and set it in my 75 sump.

$22 per baffle is something I would never pay.... but I'm a cheapskate.

 

[lcs]

Oops, I was wrong on the dimensions - it's 36x12x16. D'oh.

I'm always baffled why people install so many baffles.

:lol:

$22 per baffle is something I would never pay.... but I'm a cheapskate.

Yeah, I'd really rather not, that's for sure. That's why I'm really hoping the 1/8" will work!

My understanding with the three is to remove bubbles. Honestly, in the three years I've had my current tank, I've never had a bubble problem and the sump is very simple.

So, for the first baffles, just two, under then over, fuge, under then over, then return section?

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

The skimmer weir should be built at the optimal skimmer water level; it'll be a pita pulling a skimmer out to clean detritus from under it when it's sitting on some kind of stand. Building a raised chamber for the skimmer to sit directly on (height is subject to top clearance) will give the pump section a bit more volume. unless you expect bubbles in your fuge you shouldn't need any more than single panel weir.

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

Add that if were to make a seperate fuge/pump section in one sump, I would make the fuge as tall as I thought power off back drain to the sump would allow.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

1/8" will definitely work in many cases...

will it have a lot of pressure pushing on it? A lot of people fill a refugia with sand or rock.... or have one side "dry"... leaving unequal water pressure on both sides. If THAT'S the case it's better to err on the side of caution.

Personally, I like MY idea of sinking a 5 gallon tank in there

 

[lcs]

The skimmer weir should be built at the optimal skimmer water level

That's what I've been reading and you have a point about detritus under a stand. I'll look into the height for the skimmer I'm getting and go from there. Thanks!

I would make the fuge as tall as I thought power off back drain to the sump would allow.

Agreed. I used the calculator here on RC once to figure out what my drain down would be, but I forget the number. I figured I'd make sure I had that amount plus a little extra.

So you guys really think that one 1/8" pane of glass will hold between the fuge and the return? What if I did the double baffle after the skimmer with 1/8" and the last baffle with 1/4"?

I will probably end up with rock (not sure about sand) in the fuge, but it won't be packed in there.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

personally... I'd keep it simple.

When designing my own sump I didn't want rock or sand in it but SOMEHOW it ended up holding rock... and LOTS of it!

Not good, IMO. I should have stayed with my original design. Detritus accumulating in the sump is a BAD THING.

So... if you keep it simple (use baffles to allow bubbles and suspended detritus to settle) you should be able to do 1/8".
If you're gonna get crazy :wildone: and load up one side... better to err on the side of caution.

 

[chiefifd]

What is the latest design for baffles, optimum height from the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the first raised baffle? Is this height more determined to be by flow needed and width of the tank? Example if your have a 12 inch wide sump vs a 18 inch wide sump would that matter? I guess this might have a hand in just how thick your baffle material needs to be.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

if the first baffle is simply forcing water flow under it 1/8" is fine..

only in pressurized circumstances do you need to reinforce 1/8" or use thicker material.

WARNING: 1/8" glass cut at Lowe's has SHARP EDGES

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

Isn't window glass 3/32"?

 

[chiefifd]

Thanks for the explanation, on baffle height that water flows under. I'm thinking of cutting my own glass from old windows. Mostly because I like a project.....and I'm in no hurry to get my planned reef tank up and running.

 

[lcs]

Isn't window glass 3/32"?

I think so. I checked a piece I had cut by Lowes a couple years ago and it says it 3/32. I hope they have full 1/8" glass as well.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

let us know if they have 1/8".. I know they have window glass as they cut it for my lighting splash guards

 

[lhscouchmonster]

I can save you a trip. I actually took a picture of all the glass they carry in store a month ago when was there so I could figure out the prices for my sump glass I needed. Lowes only has 2.5mm glass (a hair bigger than 3/32). Its about 75% are thick as 1/8 inch.

Double up the pieces. It worked well for me.

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[zooman72]

I used simple window glass (edges sanded with a Dremel) for my sumps - here is a 20L with only 2 baffles, and I use the same sump on my 29g and 20L aquariums (this is my 40B):





I have never seen the need for double or triple baffles to seperate each section, and I have zero bubble issues for my return, although the water is not really "flying" through it...

 

[chiefifd]

I have a question about the two baffles that you're using in the sump. What is the turn over rate of water in the sump? It looks very nice from your photos.