Glass thickness and how water pressure works?

PokerG

New member
Everyone knows that the thickness of the glass goes up when the tank gets higher not because of the water volume per se, but because of the way the water wants to squeeze out the sides.

Is there a proper calculation for working out the thickness used for unusual setups?

For instance:

1: Someone wants to build a tank thats 4ft high but only 12"x12" for the other dimensions. The normal recomendation for tanks of this height is close to 1" thick glass. But for a tank that is only 12"x12" this would be overkill. So how do you do the maths to get the correct thickness?

2: (And my actual situation) I want to build a tank that is 12-14ft long 12-15" high and 12" deep. Now the glass is more likely to bow in the middle than your standard 40G (48"Lx12"Dx15"H). Should I use thicker glass?

What are the precise benefits to bracing that goes along the glass and that goes front to back? (I realise that going along the glass makes the glass less likely to bend as now the brace had to bend as well effectively increasing it strength, same goes for the front to back bracing, but how much is the benefit. I basically need some maths if people have any to show how to calculate tank strengths when filled with water etc.

Bit of a waffle I know but thanks for your help if you can.

Gary
 
Glass Thickness is an often discussed topic. The fnzas site explains it better than I can.

I know I have posted a spreadsheet that I have used before. But, currently I can not find my copy. The Fnzas site no longer has a link to the calculator:(
 
Re: Glass thickness and how water pressure works?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6519128#post6519128 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PokerG
What are the precise benefits to bracing that goes along the glass and that goes front to back? (I realise that going along the glass makes the glass less likely to bend as now the brace had to bend as well effectively increasing it strength, same goes for the front to back bracing, but how much is the benefit.

In your case the use of a 2" to 3" bracing around the tank may not be the best option because of the narrow tank width. After all a 3" brace front and back leaves less than 6" to access the tank. You may find it better to put in a 6" wide brace every 18" to 24".

If you are using acrylic the brace around the edge is more important since acrylic allows more bowing. This is more a viewing issue than strength issue IMO.
 
I would first check that glass is available in the lengths you mention. You don't indicate where you are, but I spoke to a manufacturer in Canada recently regarding a large tank , and was surprised to find that the longest length of starphire he could obtain was 126 inches. In the UK the same glass is available up to 6.5 metres (256 inches). The previous comments about bracing are very valid, especially the front to back suggestion.
 
On a personal note, I wouldn't want to make a tank of that length without the addition of bracing bars. All glass will tend to bend slightly under water pressure, and that's a long length of glass and therefore a lot of potential bending!
 
I have a 9ft reef upstairs that has both lengthwise and front to back bracing at various points along the tank. I just didn't like the idea of using 2" lengthwise bracing front and back as this really would make access to the tank difficult as Fl_seagull pointed out.

The site you guys pointed me to is great, thanks I really appreciate it.

Gary
 
Garf doesnt recomend you build tanks this size, thats one of the reasons I started to ask around. :)

But thanks for the response.

Gary
 
Handling large or long piece of glass can be very scary. Having had a sheet of glass 8 ft long and 3 ft high break in your hands and drop razor sharp pieces around your feet is not something I want to experience again.

Your front, back and bottom pieces are large enough that you may find just handling them will cause them to break.

Also, remember to have the glass shop "seam" the glass square. Some (most where I live) of the shops will not sell unseamed glass. Cutting glass leaves a razor sharp edge. "Seaming" grind the edge so it is safe to handle. In aquarium building these seamed edges makes for better (stronger) joints.
 
Fl_seagull, I am guessing the place I am will get the glass will sell it already seamed but it will be worth asking. thanks.

Gary
 
The shops here quote it as $0.22 to $0,25 an inch! It may have been included in the cost you were quoted. The last quote I got had seaming as 1/2 the cost of the bill.
 
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