Glass Thickness for 30 or 36 Inch Deep Tank?
- Thread starter Kengar
- Start date
yeah, as a former engineer, I'm embarrassed to admit that I overlooked that fact. (Plate bending) I'm thinking 8 feet. On one of the other places I posted, I get a link to a calculator that gives glace thickness for given dimensions. It's includes ability to put in a safety factor. I dont' know what considreations go into it, e.g., frame, no frame, euro brace, etc. For safety, I will just go with 3/4 on the front and rear and have a top piece fabbed from a single sheet of 1/2 glass that has two braces extending across it with three cutoouts therebetween, then silicone-attach it to the top edge
dahenley
New member
a lazer or water cut single sheet of glass cut the way you want it, will cost more then the rest of your build.....
you could just a standard euro bracing with a few cross braces, and be fine. plus more cheap.
in the large tank forum, look up a 900gal bennytheblenny build. his tank was built this way, and larger then yours. it might help with the planning and building. (at least you will get some tips)
hope that helps..
you could just a standard euro bracing with a few cross braces, and be fine. plus more cheap.
in the large tank forum, look up a 900gal bennytheblenny build. his tank was built this way, and larger then yours. it might help with the planning and building. (at least you will get some tips)
hope that helps..
offroadodge
New member
200g
200g
I just had glass cut for my 60x30x27. It cost $1000 just for the glass, the back glass as you can see was cut and drilled (water jet with 45 degree edges) then tempered after for strength in the overflow area. The tank is 1/2 glass (actually 14MM), i eurobraced the top of the tank and now that it has sand and water it has probably a 1/8" bow towards the top. No biggie. A friend has the same tank but 3/4" glass RIMLESS and it has a 1/4" bow. WOW. I would use 3/4" if it were me
200g
I just had glass cut for my 60x30x27. It cost $1000 just for the glass, the back glass as you can see was cut and drilled (water jet with 45 degree edges) then tempered after for strength in the overflow area. The tank is 1/2 glass (actually 14MM), i eurobraced the top of the tank and now that it has sand and water it has probably a 1/8" bow towards the top. No biggie. A friend has the same tank but 3/4" glass RIMLESS and it has a 1/4" bow. WOW. I would use 3/4" if it were me
Attachments
PSU REEFER
New member
My 500g glass is 3/4''
FYI, cap piece made like this:
cost 775 out of a 3188 total quote I just got in (that was including tax). The quote was slightly "off" as the bottom panel was incorrectly priced as low-iron and the top panel was priced as 30" front to back instead of 36", but the basic idea -- that it does not overwhelm the rest of the price -- is still the same. Given the peace of mind and aesthetics due to structural integrity of it being a single cap bracing piece, this is what I am going to go with.
Steveb
Premium Member
When I was looking into large glass tanks the AGE tanks, they could be had with a one piece acrylic eurobrace. I am not sure how they attach it to glass but it may be worth looking into. <edit>
Actually think its one of these...
WELD-ON 1829
http://www.sdplastics.com/ips/bulletin/Assembly_PB1829.pdf
Dow 795 silicon
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1705683&highlight=acrylic+or+glass
Actually think its one of these...
WELD-ON 1829
http://www.sdplastics.com/ips/bulletin/Assembly_PB1829.pdf
Dow 795 silicon
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1705683&highlight=acrylic+or+glass
Last edited:
my understanding from talking to AGE a while back, when I was trying to get ideas for doing my own hybrid PVC/glass tank, is that they have to surface treat the PVC in some fashion to get the sealant to adhere safely. In chemical/thermodynamic terms, increase the surface energy. While it may be lighter to include PVC, I'll be building this right adjacent to where the tank will sit, so transport isn't going to be an issue.
dahenley
New member
great pricing on that 1 piece top.
i mentioned my quote from a previous build (not my build, but someone else's. but now that i recall it, his was just euro braced but they tempered it....)
just curious, are you going to get it water cut? and if so, do they have a multi angle machine to where they can use it to cut a 45 on the top and bottom edges? i say this, because you cant run it through a machine to smooth the tops, and it sure would suck to have your arm in the tank and when you pull it out, you cut the poooo out of your arm. just a thought
i mentioned my quote from a previous build (not my build, but someone else's. but now that i recall it, his was just euro braced but they tempered it....)
just curious, are you going to get it water cut? and if so, do they have a multi angle machine to where they can use it to cut a 45 on the top and bottom edges? i say this, because you cant run it through a machine to smooth the tops, and it sure would suck to have your arm in the tank and when you pull it out, you cut the poooo out of your arm. just a thought
not sure how they will do it, but this is the company i will -- pending one other quote coming in -- most likely deal with: http://kensingtonglass.com/fabtemp/products.php
I suspect they will treat the inner edges to avoid having arm pooooo hit the water! the gentleman I've been dealing with has been most pleasant and professional.
I suspect they will treat the inner edges to avoid having arm pooooo hit the water! the gentleman I've been dealing with has been most pleasant and professional.
Stand build will be first, starting next week or the week after. Tank, per se, will have to wait a month or so due to funds and the "honey-do" factor. . . . . . in other words, if I go that far and start that before finishing the other projects that have been mid-project for the last year, my wife will KILL me 
Stand work is all I'm willing to risk at the moment!
Stand work is all I'm willing to risk at the moment!Similar threads
