Glass versus Acrylic
- Thread starter Rudy
- Start date
Rudy
New member
well that is bad news! I am really growing tired of all these aquariu sellers telling me what they are going to seel me is great.
I asked this person why hgis acrylic was only 1/2" thick versus a couple other people I ahve contact whose tanks are 3/4" or 1" think and he said,
"we use .5'' because we know what we are doing, thus do not need margin for error. if you were building it yourself, i would recommend 1"we can supply you with over 1500 references."
The company seems legitimate:
www.aquartaquariums.com
Unpleasantly Confused
I asked this person why hgis acrylic was only 1/2" thick versus a couple other people I ahve contact whose tanks are 3/4" or 1" think and he said,
"we use .5'' because we know what we are doing, thus do not need margin for error. if you were building it yourself, i would recommend 1"we can supply you with over 1500 references."
The company seems legitimate:
www.aquartaquariums.com
Unpleasantly Confused
mcrist
Premium Member
It all comes down to the mighty dollar. If they can under bid a more qualified builder and win the sale with proposing thinner materials than they will do it. Sure it will hold water but I would be concerned with it long term. I want my tank to be built like a tank so that I don’t have any problems now and in the future.
I also went with James from Envision Acrylics.
I also went with James from Envision Acrylics.
mcrist
Premium Member
I want to make sure I understand...
Aquatic Art Aquariums = 1/2" and eurobraced
Envision = 3/4" and eurbraced
Is their anything else different?
I would recommend calling James and talking to him. He won’t try and sell you his tank and he will take the time and explain everything that he does.
Aquatic Art Aquariums = 1/2" and eurobraced
Envision = 3/4" and eurbraced
Is their anything else different?
I would recommend calling James and talking to him. He won’t try and sell you his tank and he will take the time and explain everything that he does.
bureau13
New member
Doesn't Tenecor use 1/2" acrylic? They've been around for a while, I don't remember hearing about any problems. That said...significant bowing, even if there was no real risk of it bursting, would make me nervous.
FWIW, my tank is 3/4" cross-braced (which is why I went with the 4x250W HQI fixture, rather than the more typical 3 lamp configuration) with the bow front being 1/2" (supposedly the bow makes it stronger? I don't know...)
jds
FWIW, my tank is 3/4" cross-braced (which is why I went with the 4x250W HQI fixture, rather than the more typical 3 lamp configuration) with the bow front being 1/2" (supposedly the bow makes it stronger? I don't know...)
jds
Rudy
New member
Jeff, Thanks. I guess the same would hold true for 1" versus 3/4" correct?
Do you think 3/4" will prevent bowing over a prolonged period of time (years)?
If I could get a 3/4" cell cast acrylic for abut the same price as a 15 mm (~5/8") Starphire glass tank, both 72 x 30 x 30, which is the better deal? All the diffeences we've talked about on this thread notwithstanding.
Thanks again.
BrokeColoReefer
Hermit
there is alot to it... the thickness of the material depends alot on the depth of the tank and how well its braced. for example. i could build a 8' long tank that is 20" deep but i would be limited to bracing the top with a minimum of 2 x 4" braces or 3 x 3" braces.. euro brace would not be a option, it would have to be so wide that it would defeat the purpose. If i wanted to eurobrace it with a 3" brace, i would have to use 1" if i had a 4" brace i could get away with 3/4". So to build a 250 gallon tank cheap you would use 1/2" material and brace it well.
jeffbrig
Premium Member
BTW, I have a spreadsheet from Cyro (acrylic Mfr) that calculates acceptable loads for Acrylite GP (this is the good stuff).
For a 72" long tank that's 30" deep with a "closed" top, they say use 1". This assumes that the top is sufficiently braced that the sides don't have to support the full weight.
Of course, they're probably giving a pretty good margin of safety here:
*While the tensile strength of the ACRYLITE GP sheet is 10,000 psi at room temperature, continuously imposed loads below that could cause stress crazing and/or failure. Therefore, 750 psi is the design stress used for water applications.
For a 72" long tank that's 30" deep with a "closed" top, they say use 1". This assumes that the top is sufficiently braced that the sides don't have to support the full weight.
Of course, they're probably giving a pretty good margin of safety here:
*While the tensile strength of the ACRYLITE GP sheet is 10,000 psi at room temperature, continuously imposed loads below that could cause stress crazing and/or failure. Therefore, 750 psi is the design stress used for water applications.
Rudy
New member
Thanks for the spreadsheet and everyones thoughts.
I was all set to order an acrylic tank. I wanted to go to the local LFS to take one final comparisn in peson. I spoke with a guy (owner), in person at my LFS, who told me I shouldn't use Acrylic if I plan to keep any types of inverts, specifically corals, even the hardy soft corals, like mushrooms. He told me due to the need to supplement the tank with calcium, etc. it is more likely to collect coralline algae. The upkeep of which usually requires almost daily, albeit light, cleaning. Although I am not one who neglects my tank, given my need to keep a day job, I allow my tank maintenance to take place weekly, normally on Saturday.
Do you know this to be the case? The person seemed to not have an axe to grind one way or another, but who knows. I have heard so many varying opinions.
Merry Christmas or Happy Hanukah, whichever is appropriate.
Keith
I was all set to order an acrylic tank. I wanted to go to the local LFS to take one final comparisn in peson. I spoke with a guy (owner), in person at my LFS, who told me I shouldn't use Acrylic if I plan to keep any types of inverts, specifically corals, even the hardy soft corals, like mushrooms. He told me due to the need to supplement the tank with calcium, etc. it is more likely to collect coralline algae. The upkeep of which usually requires almost daily, albeit light, cleaning. Although I am not one who neglects my tank, given my need to keep a day job, I allow my tank maintenance to take place weekly, normally on Saturday.
Do you know this to be the case? The person seemed to not have an axe to grind one way or another, but who knows. I have heard so many varying opinions.
Merry Christmas or Happy Hanukah, whichever is appropriate.
Keith
Rudy
New member
Jeff, not a problem in your experience with Acrylic?
The guy said without almost daily attention it would get out of control and the only way to get rid of it would likley reault in scratching. This has not been the casse for you? How long ahve you had your acrylic?
Like I said, I don't mind weekly maintenance, but daily is tough to maintain given work and family.
The guy said without almost daily attention it would get out of control and the only way to get rid of it would likley reault in scratching. This has not been the casse for you? How long ahve you had your acrylic?
Like I said, I don't mind weekly maintenance, but daily is tough to maintain given work and family.
jeffbrig
Premium Member
My acrylic tank has been in use since April 05, about 20 months. I probably clean the insides of the tank twice a month, tops. I have a handful of minor scratches, but nothing that you would notice unless your nose was right up to the tank. Certainly nothing that makes me feel like it's necessary to do a scratch repair.
Tang Salad
Algae skeptic
I've had both and have acrylic now.
No matter how careful, or what anyone says, acrylic wil get scratched. It gets scratches just by being looked at.
The good thing is that acrylic scratches are difficult to see, until you get a lot of them.
No matter how careful, or what anyone says, acrylic wil get scratched. It gets scratches just by being looked at.
The good thing is that acrylic scratches are difficult to see, until you get a lot of them.
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