Glueing acrylic. What am I doing wrong?

Lyscer

New member
I cannot seem to get a good joint when I glue acrylic and I'm hoping that some of the more experienced acrylic people can help me out.

I am trying to build 2 CA Reactors. I tried this about a month ago and the joints had lots of air bubbles between the tube and the end plates. The first time I did it I was used pins(like sewing pins) and put those all around the tube. Injected the acrylic glue and then pulled them out to slowly settle the tube onto the plate. 1 out of 3 joints were good.

This second time around I saw a video online of a guy that just put the two pieces of acrylic where they needed to go and then ran the applicator along the seem and the seem sucked up all of the acrylic glue. This was the method I tried this time. If I can get my camera to take some good pictures of the joints I will post them.
 
If you want to glue acrylic,there are two possible ways to do it:
1)using thin acrylic solvent first(which works only by capillary action) and then applying thick acrylic solvent(which also works by capillary action and can cover big gaps which were not covered by the thin one)
2)using only thick acrylic solvent,which can be applied in a line along the one of the edges to be glued,then putting the other edge on the edge with the solvent
The most popular way for building aquariums is,by far,the first one because it requires pre-assembly of the pieces to be glued,thus it's more easy to glue the edges of an aquarium.I have also used this way and although there were bubbles or gaps in some points of my joints,I haven't experienced any problem yet.You can try the second way if you want,as it allows you to put the glue first on one edge and then you can put the other piece on it easily.However,if you continue with the first way,you have to put some pressure to the pieces to be glued,so as to hold them together.In that way,the thin solvent runs deeply into the joint and produces flawless seams without many gaps or bubbles.If you watch carefully the video for glueing acrylic,you will realize that this person also puts some force for holding the two pieces to be glued together.You may use some sort of clamps or an adhesive tape to achieve it.
 
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how did you prep your edges? Were they perfectly square? What type of weldon did you use? how is the humidity in your area? Have you tried weighing down the glued pieces or using clamps?

Try using twist ties with the paper stripped off instead of pins...pins seem a little thick.

Welding acrylic does take some feel so you may just need some more experimentation and practice. Vary between weldon 3 and 4, vary soak time before pulling pins, vary thickness of pins.
 
I bought my acrylic from a local shop.

I used weldon 3. I did not put any pressure on it after I put the glue in... Maybe this is where things went wrong.

So if there are bubbles in my joints, should I be worried?
 
What type of acrylic plate are you gluing to? name brand would help
How long did you let the solvent soak?
What did you do to prep the tube ends?
What type of tube is it? cast or extruded? wall thickness?

FWIW, pressure/weight is not necessarily a deal-breaker, sometimes it helps but isn't always necessary.

Not knowing the severity of the bubbles, it's impossible to say whether you should be worried. Not trying to be vague, just honest :)

James
 
#4 may be a bit easier for you to work with, it does not evaporate quitew as fast and will give you a bit more time to get the joint full and things aligned. (if I am wrong James will correct me).
 
Lyscer if you need some weldon 4 I could hook you up with some (im in ogden) or you can head to regional supply on 3rd west and 3500 south or delvies plastics (better prices especially on acrylic) over behind the rc willey warehouse on 3rd west and 2500 south. PM me if you want more specifics. If you need some help and are around the ogden area LMK. I also travel to SLC 2-3x a week.
 
Henry100 (and Lyscer if you're thinking about using the methods he lists) I'm pretty sure that those are not the most popular methods used to glue acrylic tanks. The thin solvents like Weld-on 3 or 4, used by themselves, are ideal for constructing a tank. The thicker solvent should only be used as a last resort since it creates a weaker bond than the thin cements (James please correct me if I'm wrong). Also, using a thick solvent after applying a thin solvent further stresses the acrylic (another reason to avoid using it). Also, the thick solvent does not work by capillary action, it's thick.

I'm not sure which solvents are used for the "dipping" method (again James?) and that's sort of like what Henry100 describes in his second method (sort of). Then the thicker solvent might work better since it can contact the whole surface of the joint to be glued, as opposed to the "pins" method where it won't wick into the joint. Personally, I think one of the other methods you, Lyscer, were using was a better option than this anyway, so it probably doesn't matter which solvent you might theoretically use for this method.

Anyway, good luck. I'm sure if you post some more specifics James will be able to narrow down the source of your problem. I just didn't want you to go to work trying another method which is probably not as good as the one you are attempting already.
 
woz9683,I have to make some comments about some things you wrote and are not correct.First of all,the tensile strength(the strength of the bond you refer to) of the thick acrylic solvent is much higher than the tensile strength of the thin acrylic solvent.I have used the thin acrylic solvent called SPC and the thick acrylic solvent called S2002,from Altuglass.You have to read these:

http://www.carbonacryl.gr/assets/media/File/files/Altuglas/336.pdf

http://www.altuglas.com/literature/pdf/174.pdf

Furthermore,the thick solvent I refer to can definitely work by capillary action.You can read the above text to realize I am right.I think S2002 must be the equivalent of Weld-On 16 because the label which is on its bottle says ''thick glue S2002''.Thus,yes,a thick acrylic solvent can work by capillary action.Finally,theoretically,a properly made bond using the second method I refered to,should be much stronger than one made using thin acrylic solvent.
 
I can't say anything about products by Altuglass, but for IPS products like Weld-On #3/4 is far stonger than #16. Even without technical data (see IPS). You can snap the joint of two pieces joined with #16, you won't be able to with #3/4. IIRC 3 & 4 are good up to 25,000psi, #16 is good for about 8,000psi

I don't know of a single tank builder that uses anything but #'s 3 or 4.....or their own concoction.

Unless they're using very thick material where the capillary method won't work - then they use two parts like #40.

My guess for the problems are:

1) improper joint prep, leaving gaps for air to get in
2) soak time, after applying you have to let the solvent soften the material before pulling the pins (this is experience)
3) not enough solvent, often it takes more than one application - again experience, you get to know how much is enough

Bubbles often come because as the joint hardens it shrinks - drawing in air.

When you pull the pins the solvent shouldn't "spray" as the piece drops - more like an ooze. The more humid the air, the faster it will go.

When enough solvent has been applied you should see a small "filet" on the inside as the solvent works. Pull the pins & you should get a nice clean joint as it shrinks the filet on the inside will reduce to nothing.
 
For Altuglas glues,as everyone can read from the above technical sheets,the tensile strengths are:
thin acrylic solvent SPC:10-15MPa after 4 days of natural hardening
thick acrylic solvent S2002:28-32MPa after 4 days of natural hardening
 
Hmm, fun fun :)
Reasoning for my intitial questions:

The type of plate you are gluing to is important, there are certain brands of (esp cast) acrylic that simply do not glue well, not matter which method you use. Polycast, Cyro (extruded or cast), PlexiGlas (extruded or cast), and all of the extruded materials all glue well so if you stick with the top 3 names, the material is not a major factor in your bubble problem IMO. Some of the cheaper import brands come from factories in which resins are bought on the world resin commodity market without regard to consistency of quality and the quality control at these factories can make the use of cast specious at best. Ie, even though we want to use cast acrylic, if we are using *bad* cast acrylic (for our purposes), you still won't achieve the desired results as the material is pretty much incapable of allowing for those results.

After material choice, preparation of the tube ends is the next most imortant thing IMO. Bad cuts in the tube ends will cause inferior joints in most applications. The tube should sit flat and without gaps. This is an easy thing to take care of for small diameter tube (<8" dia). Just tape a pice of 220 grit sandpaper down to a flat surface and grind the ends on the sandpaper in one direction. If you try to grind it in both directions, most folks have a tendency to rock the piece a little, causing an uneven surface.

Cast or extruded react a little differently, extruded tube reacts much faster and soak time should be minimized to reduce risk of crazing. If proper edge prep was used on the tube, soak time for extruded tube should be no longer than it takes to apply the solvent. With cast tube, maybe wait 15 seconds or so provided the tube ends were prepped well. Waiting too long in either case causes the joint to start to set prior to pulling the wires and then you're just fighting the joint.
* The times mentioned above are based on my experience, YMMV.

The dipping method is something that I would rarely recommend but can be workable. Basically, you're filling a poly tub about 1/8" full of solvent (water thin) and soaking the tube ends in the tub, then placing the tube wherever you want it. It's sloppy, slow, and wasteful. I don't know of any mfr that uses this method.

I would agree that applying 16 after a solvent joint has dried does further stress the material and can induce crazing, esp in extruded materials. I know many DIYers (and some mfrs) do it, but should be avoided if possible.

16 can work by capillary method but requires a large gap and is sloppy. Capillary actioin is simply surface tension wick a solvent into the joint, since 16 is still somewhat liquid - it will follow the surface tension. It still requires at least a decent sawcut edge and since it only takes a minute to prep a decent sawcut - why bother IMO :)

I would argue with the idea that joint strength using 16 or equivalent would be any higher than that of solvent. After all, 16 is just solvetn with MMA/PMMA in suspension. They work by the exact same action, solvent breaking down acrylic. I just don't seee, even in theory, how this is could be derived.

Henry, It does appear that the S2000E is similar to WO 3 or 4, S2002 (S2000 with some gap fill) is similar to WO 16 but without an MSDS, kinda tough to find out how similar these are but if you read the tensile strength notes on both - you will find the results to be exactly the same.
The tensile strength for SPC doesn't mean much IMO without knowing what it is made from, it could simply be acetone or MEK which of course yield a lower bond strength. Please compare S2000E to S2002 (S2000 with some gap fill) as an apples to apples comparison.

Tensile strength of joints are theoretical at best though for our puproses as we will never put that much stress on a joint in operating conditions. Doesn't matter if theoretical tensile strength of a joint is 2500psi, 8000psi, or 25000psi, we will never put that much direct stress on the joint in operation. Furthermore, if it doesn't get a full joint or bite into the acrylic - these numbers are absolutely meaningless.

HTH,
James
 
Yes,Acrylics you are right.I probably use the S2000E(as a thin acrylic solvent) which has about the same tensile strength as the thick acrylic solvent S2002.I am not 100% sure though,because the label of the bottle says only ''thin acrylic glue of a single-component''.Thus,it could also be SPC.Anyway,since you say that S2000E has similar properties to Weld-On 3 or 4,then this must be the thin acrylic solvent I am using.I believe you wrote a very important reply,which erased many dark spots about acrylic glues and glueing acrylic.
 
BruiseAndy - I have been getting my stuff from regional as it is just down the street from my work. And I goto school in Ogden so I am out that way 4 times a week.

Thanks for all of the helpful information. I have no idea on the brand of acrylic I am using. All I know is that it is extruded. The stresses imposed on the acrylic by adding a thicker glue after a thinner one is something I found to be true, which is why I am on round 2 of my reactor. The pin method was used and the joints had a lot of bubbles so it was recommended that a 2-part acrylic glue was to be poured inside the tube 1/16" deep and then to let that harden so it would seal any leaks we had.... When we checked on the tubes an hour later they were cracked all over and were ruined.

Which reminds me. You asked for the wall thickness, it is 1/8". I am gluing that to 1/2" acrylic top plate and a 3/8" bottom plate.

Sorry that this picture isn't too clear. If you need another one I can try to take one.

BubbleJoint.jpg


As far as prepping the tube, it was cut and then sanded on a stationary belt sander with a 200grain or so sand paper. I used a papertowel and some dishsoap to clean the ends of the tube and the plate before placing the tube on the plate and then running the applicator with the weldon around the joint.
 
If you want to practice with another piece; forget the belt sander, they generally don't get things "flat". Try just sanding the end on a piece of 220 on a flat table (as described above). Do not clean with anything but a dry towel or rag. Place the end on the piece to be glued, do not use wires or pins. Pick the piece up with one hand *just slightly* and apply a little solvent. Now, do not move the piece from this location but move the tube up and down in kinduva oblong circular motion, kinda like rolling it around the circumference of the tube but at no time allow it to pull up from the base much at all, maybe a few thousanths (trust me - you'll get it once solvent is there). Do this for 5 seconds or so, you'll start to get a good feel for how the solvent is doing. When you have the tube stationary again, take a look at the joint, should be no bubbles in it, place the tube down and let it be. Should be good to go.
If you still have a problem with it, lemme know and I'll take some pics tomorrow at work for ya with various methods and types of tube :)

HTH,
James
 
Thanks for clearing up the info about the solvents James:) . I would love to see pics of how you prep the ends of a tube if you have the time. Do you ever use a router to prep tube ends or is sandpaper sufficient? I was thinking I could just put the length of the tube up against a rail and spin the tube against the router bit to get a much cleaner edge than with sandpaper.
 
Hi Michael,
Yes I do use an horizontally mounted router for tube ends when the tube diameter is above 8". I have found sandpaper to be quite sufficient for small diameter tube ends, sometimes I'll go over it with 320 after the 220 but that's about it.

HTH,
James
 
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