Gold Rim Tang with ich

monte5000

New member
Hello,

I am new to the site, as well as the saltwater hobby! I am having trouble with my gold rim tang where it has developed some type of granular bumps and unusal markings/ yellow/brownish weird parterns on its body as well. I am currently treating the aquarium with a product called kick ich. I am currently on my 8th treatment (instructions say 15.) The weird markings still remain on the tangs body but the white granular bumps have disappeared. Whats very strange with this situation is every morning around 4am, the white granular bumps seem to reappear(what the @#$%) and a couple hours later they disapear (yellow/brownish weird parterns on its body still remain) ?? The tang also flashes of the live rock in the morning but stops after a couple hours!

All water parameters are within range,,,
Tank is about 5weeks old.

ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRCIATED!!!:sad1:
 
Sounds like ich to me. The appearing and reappearing if ich is part of it's lifecycle. The best way to cure is to remove ALL of your fish out and put in QT and treat with copper, hyposalinity, or something new called quinine sulphate. Good Luck! :)
 
How hard is it to set-up a QT? does it need to cycle for 4weeks prior to me putting the fish in? How big does the QT need to be 20 gallon? I have a gold rim tang, scopas tang, coral beauty, 1 clown and 2 engineer gobbies and clean-up crew. All fish are small in size. :spin3:
 
I had a goldrim with the same problems. They are just like Achilles tangs and Powder Blue Tangs. Notorious for contracting ich.

What I did was take a little water from my Display tank and filled a 20 g QT tanks and dropped my salinity to 1.009 and the ich was gone in two days.

If you don't want to set up a QT then try Kordon's Ick attack. It takes about 3 days to get rid of the ich. I tried Kick ick and it did not work for me.
 
How hard is it to set-up a QT? does it need to cycle for 4weeks prior to me putting the fish in? How big does the QT need to be 20 gallon? I have a gold rim tang, scopas tang, coral beauty, 1 clown and 2 engineer gobbies and clean-up crew. All fish are small in size. :spin3:

Get some filter medium and throw it in your DT and leave it there for a week or 2 so you have a good amount of nitrification bacteria on there. Get the biggest tank you can afford with a heater, powerhead, pvc pipe, and HOB filter. Also get a seachem ammonia alert badge and amquel + or prime to keep ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in check (cannot use with cupramine). Get some DT water and put it in the QT along with filter pad that was in DT and get your fish an put it in there. Treat your fish with ich. Good Luck! :)
 
Thanks a bunch fish dog!! I really don't want to buy another tank (QT) but I will if I have to-- to save my fish!! This hobby can be very frustrating and discouraging but my plan is to stay the course!! Its obvious that this kick ich doesn't appear to be working! I was wondering do you think I should continue and finish-up the treatment (Kick Ich) or should I just go ahead a buy the stuff you suggested? Is Kordon's ich attack reef and Inverts safe?
 
Thanks a bunch fish dog!! I really don't want to buy another tank (QT) but I will if I have to-- to save my fish!! This hobby can be very frustrating and discouraging but my plan is to stay the course!! Its obvious that this kick ich doesn't appear to be working! I was wondering do you think I should continue and finish-up the treatment (Kick Ich) or should I just go ahead a buy the stuff you suggested? Is Kordon's ich attack reef and Inverts safe?

Save your money reef safe treatments dont work. Setup a tank and treat with cupramine for 4 weeks. Leave your main tank fallow for 12 weeks. The important thing is make sure your QT has cycled and you will not get an ammonia spike while the fish are in it.....
 
Thanks a bunch fish dog!! I really don't want to buy another tank (QT) but I will if I have to-- to save my fish!! This hobby can be very frustrating and discouraging but my plan is to stay the course!! Its obvious that this kick ich doesn't appear to be working! I was wondering do you think I should continue and finish-up the treatment (Kick Ich) or should I just go ahead a buy the stuff you suggested? Is Kordon's ich attack reef and Inverts safe?

Might wanna see this thread on kick ich. I've heard mixed results with that stuff. You should try a more proven method such as copper, hypo, or tank transfer.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1787799
 
Gold Rim Tang with Ich (The Remix)

Gold Rim Tang with Ich (The Remix)

Well I took most of you guys advice and forked over the money to purchase a QT (quarantine tank.) I only paid $50 for a used 20 gallon tank with filter (not bad!!)I will set the salinity to 1.019 temp 78-80 degrees. Should I use an aireator? I think I'm going to remove all the fish from my DT
(display tank) and move to the QT (gold rim tang, Clown, Coral Beauty, Scopas tang.) I will leave the inverts in the DT. Is 2 weeks a sufficient amout of time in the QT tank? Any advice will be helpful!!! :bounce3:
 
Well I took most of you guys advice and forked over the money to purchase a QT (quarantine tank.) I only paid $50 for a used 20 gallon tank with filter (not bad!!)I will set the salinity to 1.019 temp 78-80 degrees. Should I use an aireator? I think I'm going to remove all the fish from my DT
(display tank) and move to the QT (gold rim tang, Clown, Coral Beauty, Scopas tang.) I will leave the inverts in the DT. Is 2 weeks a sufficient amout of time in the QT tank? Any advice will be helpful!!! :bounce3:

Follow the directions here. The hardest part of hypo is keeping pH in check. I'd use a powerhead for circulation. You need to maintain 1.008 for at least 4 weeks after you see the last spot of ich. Leave your tank fishless for 8 weeks. Good Luck!
 
Cycling QT

Cycling QT

My plan for cycling the QT is 4 weeks. I opted to put live crushed coral in the tank to have a better control of the PH. The salinity is at 1.009. Many people suggested that I should not put any substrate in the tank (How else would you control the PH?) The Fish store suggested that after the tank runs for 24 hours, bring a water sample into the store. Providing all perameters are within range, I should be able to put the sick fish into the 20 gallon QT!!! Has anyone had any luck regarding this senerio??? What should I do?
 
My plan for cycling the QT is 4 weeks. I opted to put live crushed coral in the tank to have a better control of the PH. The salinity is at 1.009. Many people suggested that I should not put any substrate in the tank (How else would you control the PH?) The Fish store suggested that after the tank runs for 24 hours, bring a water sample into the store. Providing all perameters are within range, I should be able to put the sick fish into the 20 gallon QT!!! Has anyone had any luck regarding this senerio??? What should I do?


You could use Seachems Stability and Cupramine in a QT to move the fish immediately and then treat for Ich! Here is what Seachem says about this:

"You can certainly use Stability to quickly cycle a newly established QT tank. You will want to use the following instructions for best results:

Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 gallons*) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 gallons*) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days.

You should start the 7 consecutive day treatment the day you add your livestock. It is also very important that these bacteria have a place to colonize, such as our Matrix. Matrix is a porous biological media that will house both the aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria that is contained in Stability. Both of these products work hand in hand with one another.

Cupramine can be used in conjunction with Stability in order to treat for ich. However, my recommendation would be to dose the Stability at least several days before beginning with the Cupramine treatment, especially since this is a new system. This is because medications tend to slightly deplete bacterial colonies, thus you will want to make sure you have established a good amount of bacteria before using the Cupramine. Make sense?

Furthermore, if you happen to test for ammonia, depending on the test kit you are using, the reading of ammonia you're getting is most likely a false positive. This is because Cupramine contains an organic amine which is very similar to ammonia in structure and the test kit is likely not able to distinguish between the two. You could use our MultiTest: Free and Total Ammonia test which does not have this issue and will not give a false positive... or you can use our Ammonia Alert badge which works on the same principle and will continuously monitor free ammonia in your tank."
 
Here's my theory, If only one fish is sick, then there's no reason to QT all your fish( Just QT the sick fish). With the proper diet most fish are strong enough to fight off ich. (Garlic and vitamin C) Moving all of your fish is going to be stressful for both parties( you and your fish). Most of the time when hobbist see ich on their fish they stress out more than the fish.

The first thing people will tell you is: Hurry! Take your fish out of their established environment and cram all your fish in a unestablished QT. (20g is to small for all your fish is what i am saying)

Which may work sometimes, but in your situation it just seems to be the goldrim with the problem. QT that fish only.

The Kordon Ick Attack I mentioned a few days ago is reef safe and you can run that in your DT to kill off the ich that's still in the tank. There is also a good treatment out there call Marine Max! It's a two part natural remedy that gives your fish an extra slim coat to fight off diseases. I posted the link below, check it out. That's just my 2cents.

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4270
 
Thanks for the advice guys!! Yes, the ich is promanant on the gold rim tang, however, the scopas tang and the coral beauty are starting to flash of the rocks.. So maybe they're infected as well??? It feels like im spinning my wheels over this! I was told that a 20 gallon tank will be sufficient for a QT for my fish.
 
Hey Fish Dog,

I will be picking-up some of the Kordon's Ich attack and Marine Max from the Fish store today! I hope I have the same success as you! I have a question for you, Do I use the Marine max in conjuction with the Kordon's Ich attack in my 75 gollon tank?
 
Hey Fish Dog,

I will be picking-up some of the Kordon's Ich attack and Marine Max from the Fish store today! I hope I have the same success as you! I have a question for you, Do I use the Marine max in conjuction with the Kordon's Ich attack in my 75 gollon tank?
 
This is bad advice that you are getting here..if you want to fix the problem(ich)all the fish must be qt'd and treated.If you dont want to why bother treating any of them?No reefsafe meds work they are just a dream in a bottle.
 
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Let's set the record straight.

I can only give you the advice of what I have experience in my little 3yrs in the fish game. My QT tanks has been up and running for a year, so it's already established. You are just setting your's up, so that's mean it could go through different cycles that can be detrimental to your fish.

I have seen and heard of people making a situation worse than what it already is. Meaning: throwing all their fish in a small QT, thinking they are helping their livestock and then lose all their fish. A bunch of drastic changes are what usually stress the fish to death. That's why I say just QT the gold rim.

That's like a doctor coming to you and saying, I know you are not sick, BUT let me give you a shot anyway.:sad2:? Flashing doesn't mean they have full blown ich, yet. ( In the future QT all new arrival prior to adding to DT)

All the other advice you are getting is good advice also, but IME, the Ick attack worked and the Marine Max is something I use like once a week after I do water changes. It's give them an extra slim coat so the ich can't find a host.

Just try the Ick attack first and see if it works for you. The only other thing is and this is KEY:get your fish good nutrional food and dose with Garlic and Vitamin C. I use Brightwells products. This will naturally build their immune system and the ich will not be able to find a host and will die out.
 

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Thanx for the info!!!

I am on my way to the fish store now! I just came home to check on the fish, and I noticed that the coral beauty has 3 white granular dots on it??? (what the !#$*) oh boy here way go!! I am feeding my fish every other day, I feed the fish Thera, kelp flakes, Prime reef flakes, frozen food (once a week) and marine algae. I try to give them a different variety every feeding. Should I try feeding them something different? When feeding, I soak there food with vitamin C and garlic. Am I under feeding them? should I use the Vitamin C sup. everyday in the tank?
 
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