Gold Rim Tang with ich

You really need to understand one simple thing..the ich lives in the water also so even if one fish is only showing signs the "disease" it is in the water. You are taking your chances by leaving the fish in the tank and treating them there..even if it does "cure" them for now any future additions will be at risk..I would suggest you read, read some more and then decide what you will do. Not to mention I hope you have a very large tank for that many/those types of fish. Good luck!
 
I totally agree with fish dog. Where I differ is these natural remedies, I have yet to see one work, but I haven't tried the 2 he suggested, so I don't know. I did try some Kich Ich once and all it did was screw up the sps and have never tried any of them since. Where I do totally agree with him is your QT is not established and moving two tangs and a coral beauty [who is also a very hyper fish] into a established 20 gal would be very risky and into a unestablished would be suicide. I asure you there is way more tanks out there getting along fine with ich in them, I have it in my 240 but you never see any signs of it unless something becomes a problem, like stress from water conditions, overcrowding, and any other nbr. of things. A few specs on the other fish is not something to panic over. If you take the gold guy out the others well almost certainly rid themselves of the few spots they have. I am not familiar with that tang, but as I'm sure you know most are prone to ich and some way more then others. I would odo some research and see if he requires an "aged" tank, meaning a year old or more. I would do hypo in the QT as I don't care what sea chem claims using copper with or without their special product well cause the bio system to crash in a new tank.
You have to make the decision of do I want a ich free tank? If you do you well have to QT everything in the future you want to add, LR, fish, inverts, everything that goes in that tank. Or you can keep things in good order, water quality, get along fish, fed enough to keep all happy and use ich as a indication that everything is fine, kinda like the canary in the coal mine system. I'm sure there is ich in mine but I haven't seen any signs of it in years. JMHO
 
The filter may be a piece of crap! Its one of the kind thats inline with the hood! (FILTER PAD AND BIO WHEEL SET-UP) do yo think that will be enough filtration?
 
Thanx jmann!!

I really appriciate your advice!! Its very confusing and frustating a times when you get advice and it turns out to be the wrong advice ie. PETCO AND Pets Plus!! So your saying that the 20 gallon QT is to small for 3 fish (3-4 inches in size avg.) Well, what i will have to do is quarantine the gold rim once my perameters are in check for the QT. The QT has only cycled for a week and my plan is for it to cycle 4 weeks. I am going to perform a 25% water change today on my DT and start the new treatment of Kordan's Ich attack which fish dog recommended i give a try!! I will keep every on posted on the results.

75 gallon tank (FOWLR) wet dry filter, 300w heater+ 1spare, 9w uv, 2x800 gph power heads, protien skimmer rated for 180 gallons, 100 pounds of fiji live rock. Also, I just receive my new chiller 1/10 hp rated for 80 gallons today!!! woo hoo! my plan is to start the reef tank by the summer!
 
Well!!! I finished the kick ich treatment (15days) performed a 25% water change and started the Kordon's ich attack. After 3days of treatment so far I haven't notice any change in the white granular dots on my gold rim tang! (Frustrating) I am going to continue the treatment (Kordon's kick ich) until the bottle runs out! QT still cycling another 2 weeks to go! I really wish I would have saved my money, oh well you live and you learn. Thanx for everyone's advice! I will continue to keep you posted.
 
I know fish dog personally and I can honestly tell you that he never gives advice based on WHAT HE'S HEARD OR READ! Its personal experience and he has some of the rarest tangs in his tank and they are doing GREAT!

I had a minor ich break out and he told me to try the Kordon, I wasnt too sold on the idea but I tried it any way. The ich was gone in almost 3 days after the outbreak. Of course each case is different but it worked for me. Good luck with your trail!
 
monte5000 said:
Well!!! I finished the kick ich treatment (15days) performed a 25% water change and started the Kordon's ich attack. After 3days of treatment so far I haven't notice any change in the white granular dots on my gold rim tang! (Frustrating) I am going to continue the treatment (Kordon's kick ich) until the bottle runs out! QT still cycling another 2 weeks to go! I really wish I would have saved my money, oh well you live and you learn. Thanx for everyone's advice! I will continue to keep you posted.
Click to expand...


None of the Ich treatments available today will remove the Ich from the fish. They only treat the Ich in the free swimming stage which comes after if leaves the fish becomes cyst and then multiplies and releases the baby parasties to find a host(fish). This entire process can take up to 28 days!
 
If the QT water parameters are in check, go ahead and put the Gold rim in there. He is the host for the parasites!!! Like I stated on my first post ( Goldrims, Achilles, Powder Blues and Powder Browns) are ich magnets.

I QT my Goldrim because the Ick attack can only kill the free swimming parasites and the tangs I mentioned above seem to have soft skin and it is easy for the parasites to attach to them.

Regal Angel said it perfect: Quote:

"They only treat the Ich in the free swimming stage which comes after if leaves the fish becomes cyst and then multiplies and releases the baby parasties to find a host(fish)."

I think your issue has a lot to do with the fish you selected to put in a new tank, alot of these delicate fish need to be researched before purchase and even after that, they need to go in established tanks that's been running for a while.

Get the ich magnet out (Goldrim), finish the treatment, beef up the vitamins/garlic and feed them every day until you get the ich under control. ( I feed my fish everyday! they eat everyday in the wild! right!? BUT I do water changes weekly!

BTW have you thought about getting a cleaner wrasse! They are the Doctor's of the ocean!:reading:

This can be a long process, so hang in there.
 
Thanx Fish dog for the advice using the Ich attack!! I think your observation is 100% correct regarding the fish that I selected and put the fish in the DT prematurly b4 the tank cycled properly (again getting the wrong advice)!! You know, when you first start in this hobby, you want to buy everything!! I didn't let my tank cycle properly now, I am learning the hard way and seeing a lot of problems with my DT. I am having a problem with the ammonia in my tank. I perform water changes 15 gallons every 2 weeks and the ammonia doesnt seem to go down! I feed my fish every other day (a little food.) This is the reason way the gold rim still have traces of ich! I don't want to keep doing water changes but how else do I get the ammonia to 0 (currently at .025 ppm) The QT perameters are not sutable for fish still needs to cycle. I am hanging in there but I am P/O at myself for being so fast. I MUST get my DT under control!
 
Monte5000, try using "Prime" for your DT. It is known to lower ammonia, the product is made by Seachem Prime and you can pick it up at petsmart or petco. Very inexpensive...I personally haven't tried it but I hear about it a lot from other hobbyist. You might wanna do some quick research!
 
What is the pH in the main tank during the day and an hour before the lights come on? Also what is your method of filtration including gph? If your pH is swinging up and down from day to night or even below 8.3-8.4 your fish will continue to get sick. The stress from lack of oxygen wears on their immune system and makes them more prone to outbreaks. Increased circulation will greatly help your fish to recover as this increases dissolved oxygen and raises ORP, which reduces free radicals in the water.
 
Thanx seabayaquatic and iammoc!!

I am currently using "Prime" and I haven't noticed a drop in the ammonia.

The method of filtration I have is a wet dry filter! I believe the return pump is rated for 300 or 500 GPH (is this adequate filtration?)! I have tested the PH early this morning (3am) in the DT and it tested between 8.3-8.4 (same as the night.) I have 2 power heads 800 GPH for flow, salinity at 1.025 all other perameters are spot on except the ammonia. I am going to perform a major water change this weekend (27 gallons.) After the water change, my plan is to start building my refugium (30 gallon.) I am hearing a lot of good things about it. Any advice on refugiums please let me know! The guy at the fish store wanted to charge me $800 to build one (are u crazy???) I can build one myself for less than $100. I will take photos of the process so everyone can see! I am convinced that the reason for the ich is because of the ammonia problem.

75 gallon tank (FOWLR) wet dry filter- (rated for a 75g tank), 300w heater+ 1spare, 9w uv, 2x800 gph power heads, protien skimmer rated for 180 gallons, 1/10 hp chiller-(not installed yet) 100 + pounds of fiji live rock.
 
Last edited:
monte5000 said:
Thanx seabayaquatic and iammoc!!

I am currently using "Prime" and I haven't noticed a drop in the ammonia.
Click to expand...


Most test kits for ammonia will measure total ammonia (+ ammonium).
With Prime you will get some conversion of ammonia that WILL register with these test kits.


If you use Seachem's ammonia badge it only measures ammonia and it will show that Prime is working.
 
monte5000 said:
Thanx seabayaquatic and iammoc!!

I am currently using "Prime" and I haven't noticed a drop in the ammonia.

The method of filtration I have is a wet dry filter! I believe the return pump is rated for 300 or 500 GPH (is this adequate filtration?)! I have tested the PH early this morning (3am) in the DT and it tested between 8.3-8.4 (same as the night.) I have 2 power heads 800 GPH for flow, salinity at 1.025 all other perameters are spot on except the ammonia. I am going to perform a major water change this weekend (27 gallons.) After the water change, my plan is to start building my refugium (30 gallon.) I am hearing a lot of good things about it. Any advice on refugiums please let me know! The guy at the fish store wanted to charge me $800 to build one (are u crazy???) I can build one myself for less than $100. I will take photos of the process so everyone can see! I am convinced that the reason for the ich is because of the ammonia problem.

75 gallon tank (FOWLR) wet dry filter- (rated for a 75g tank), 300w heater+ 1spare, 9w uv, 2x800 gph power heads, protien skimmer rated for 180 gallons, 1/10 hp chiller-(not installed yet) 100 + pounds of fiji live rock.
Click to expand...


The wet/dry should be doing a better job of converting ammonia to less toxic nitrate! Do you have a larger pump or extra pump you could place in the wet/dry to return more water to the display? This would increase the amount of water being processed through the bio balls and increase nitrification. My experience with refugiums is that they don't nitrify ammonia and nitrite like a wet/dry. This would only leave your tank vulnerable still to your ammonia problem.
 
Well just as a precaution, I am going to start my canister filter in parallel with my wet dry filter until I can get this ammonia situation under control! I'll let u know how it works out!
 
Hi all,

Well unfortunately, the gold rim tang did not make it. It died while in the QT. Thats $80 down the drain (Literaly.) Oh well... I am almost finished the refugium (30 gallon) I'll be uploading the pics shortly! I am wondering if I should use the return pump from the refugium to run to the chiller ? I may need to upgrade to a slightly larger pump. Anyone know the best and affordable lights for a reef?
 
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