gone solar
- Thread starter hobogato
- Start date
jnarowe
New member
that's 1rst grade stuff Carl. You're making it much more complicated than it really is. All you need is a sensor you can pick up at Radio Shack and write the code for your controller. Same kind of sensor in your driveway/security lights. It's a simple ON/OFF and the code for the controller will run the lights based on your needs.
hobogato
New member
for those interested in the purple anemone and the rest of my tank, i continue to post updates in my build thread (little red house) since they are not sps keeper related.
back to the lighting discussion - hopefully one of us can figure out something that will work to turn on some supplimental lighting in the winter or on low sunlight days. my first thought, when you guys first started this part of the discussion was the tunze photo cell that is used to cut the pumps off at night.
as far as the lights not coming on at night, cant that be put into the code of the controller along with the code for the light sensor?
back to the lighting discussion - hopefully one of us can figure out something that will work to turn on some supplimental lighting in the winter or on low sunlight days. my first thought, when you guys first started this part of the discussion was the tunze photo cell that is used to cut the pumps off at night.
as far as the lights not coming on at night, cant that be put into the code of the controller along with the code for the light sensor?
8BALL_99
New member
Yep thats what I'm saying this isn't very hard. A cloud passing over would only trigger the light if you had your photo sensor either set in a bad spot or had one that was VERY sensitive. I would only want it to trigger on very dark stormy days. Not just partly cloudy.
Again just a standard photo sensor wired into a AC with a couple lines of code would do the job. How sensitive the sensor is depends on where you mount it and what sensor you use..
melev
Well-known member
The way I see it, the gizmo (controller) would measure the PAR at a specific time of day, like 12pm. If it isn't strong enough, it turns on the lights for 6 hours. During that period, like 2 hours later, it could check to see if the PAR is higher. If it is, the lights switch off. Otherwise, they stay on. It could measure every two hours, basically at 12 pm, 2pm, and 4pm. The lights would have been on from 12 - 6pm if the PAR never reached the goal setting.
The PAR meter comes with the sensor, and gives you the data. The trick is porting the data to a controller or laptop. The new Apogee PAR meters come with a USB port. Imagine having access to that information on the fly. Hmmm!
The PAR meter comes with the sensor, and gives you the data. The trick is porting the data to a controller or laptop. The new Apogee PAR meters come with a USB port. Imagine having access to that information on the fly. Hmmm!
8BALL_99
New member
I think they already have par Meter/Controllers used for Green houses but they are pretty $$ if I remember right. Even a decent par meter is a few hundred bucks. I think a 2 dollar photo cell would do the same thing but at a much cheaper price. All you had to do is place the photo sensor in a place so it will only trigger the lights if the lighting/par is below a certain point. Sure you woudn't have real time par data. But thats a whole nother deal. It would be very cool though. The other small issue is par meters drift with use. They also need to be sent to the MFG for calibration. So running one 24/7 would probably require constant tune ups. Most of the drive to install solar tubes is to save some cash. If you have to add a few hundred bucks on top of everything else for a par controller that starts cutting into your overall goal. JMO
melev
Well-known member
The thing is, photo sensors notice the difference between day and night. That is what many outdoor light use to click the bulbs on and off. In the case of a solar tube, it would sense daylight even on a very cloudy day. It would have to be dark and stormy.
Maybe it could work if you had some type of limo tint on the sensor. Bright sunlight would penetrate it, but lesser light would be implied darkness. You could even poke the film with a pin to allow the slightest light through it.
Maybe it could work if you had some type of limo tint on the sensor. Bright sunlight would penetrate it, but lesser light would be implied darkness. You could even poke the film with a pin to allow the slightest light through it.
jnarowe
New member
:lol:
You are too smart for that Carl. But the discussion has merit. Even though the security light sensors sense day & night, they still activate on cloudy days. Most of those can be tuned now anyway. You can crank up the sensitivity and the duration. All mine can anyway, so they can each be "customized" to their location around the house.
I would bet you could find the exact right type of sensor online that would adjustable and yet just send an ONN/OFF signal to a controller.
landy
New member
This may be a little OT for the current discussion.
Has anyone used the 21†tube yet?
I went to my local solatube dealer yesterday, and looked at the 14†and 21†tubes in action. It was around 2pm on a nice sunny day. Let me tell you, I could not get over the difference between the two. The owner said that the 21†are equivalent to 1000W bulb. She also stated the 14†is around a 400w bulb. Has anyone seen any published number?
having the clearance with my POS flat roof (2x10’s on 24†center), i left with this.
Still debating on purchasing a second 21â€Â. I guess it depends on the size of tank I FINNALY:mad2: decide on. 4’ cube X 24†OR a 60x36x24 peninsula. I am having a hell of a time deciding.
Landy
Has anyone used the 21†tube yet?
I went to my local solatube dealer yesterday, and looked at the 14†and 21†tubes in action. It was around 2pm on a nice sunny day. Let me tell you, I could not get over the difference between the two. The owner said that the 21†are equivalent to 1000W bulb. She also stated the 14†is around a 400w bulb. Has anyone seen any published number?
having the clearance with my POS flat roof (2x10’s on 24†center), i left with this.
Still debating on purchasing a second 21â€Â. I guess it depends on the size of tank I FINNALY:mad2: decide on. 4’ cube X 24†OR a 60x36x24 peninsula. I am having a hell of a time deciding.
Landy
NaClH20NMYVEIN
Red Dragons!
Nice! Glad to see another AZ person going with solartubes! I plan on using 4 14"ers but It is still about 6 months away. Please make sure to post your progress. I would also love to come by and check them out if you dont mind. Are you planning on any supplemental lighting for color reasons?
JMBoehling
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14692826#post14692826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by landy
This may be a little OT for the current discussion.
Has anyone used the 21†tube yet?
I went to my local solatube dealer yesterday, and looked at the 14†and 21†tubes in action. It was around 2pm on a nice sunny day. Let me tell you, I could not get over the difference between the two. The owner said that the 21†are equivalent to 1000W bulb. She also stated the 14†is around a 400w bulb. Has anyone seen any published number?
having the clearance with my POS flat roof (2x10’s on 24†center), i left with this.
Still debating on purchasing a second 21â€Â. I guess it depends on the size of tank I FINNALY:mad2: decide on. 4’ cube X 24†OR a 60x36x24 peninsula. I am having a hell of a time deciding.
Landy
I've only got (02) 10" tubes, I can't imagine (02) 21's
Look forward to seeing your build..
Thanks,
Jim
marinelife
Active member
So are the Solatube systems the ones I want:
http://www.solatube.com/residential/
I am gonna add these over my new tank.
http://www.solatube.com/residential/
I am gonna add these over my new tank.
