gone solar
- Thread starter hobogato
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Solar Tube Help
Solar Tube Help
First off I must say the tanks look awesome in this thread. It is now my turn to join as my heating and electric keep going up.
After a lot of reading the solar tube threads I am very tempted. Since I live in Wisconsin I was planning on using either 3 - 13" or 2 - 18" solar tubes. I have an 180AGA 6 foot tank. I like the 18" as I would only be adding 2 tubes versus the 3 for the 13". Less holes in the roof is a good thing. I am just worried about coverage of the tank.
My thought was to add 4 of the PowerBrite LED Lighting System - Blue for the blue which will use very little power to help supplement and for night time viewing.
Solar Tube Help
First off I must say the tanks look awesome in this thread. It is now my turn to join as my heating and electric keep going up.
After a lot of reading the solar tube threads I am very tempted. Since I live in Wisconsin I was planning on using either 3 - 13" or 2 - 18" solar tubes. I have an 180AGA 6 foot tank. I like the 18" as I would only be adding 2 tubes versus the 3 for the 13". Less holes in the roof is a good thing. I am just worried about coverage of the tank.
My thought was to add 4 of the PowerBrite LED Lighting System - Blue for the blue which will use very little power to help supplement and for night time viewing.
redfishsc
New member
yettihead, you will have to buy a LOT of those PowerBrites do supplement a 180.
If you are going to use LEDs, you are best (cost and power output) to wire up your own DIY rig. You can put a LOT more LED's over that tank for the cost of all those PowerBrites.
That being said, at the moment I would recommend you used something more cost effective like running TEK or IceCap T5HO retro's. 4 6' retros over that tank, running two ATI Blue+ and two UVL Super Actinics would look incredible with a couple solar tubes.
If you are going to use LEDs, you are best (cost and power output) to wire up your own DIY rig. You can put a LOT more LED's over that tank for the cost of all those PowerBrites.
That being said, at the moment I would recommend you used something more cost effective like running TEK or IceCap T5HO retro's. 4 6' retros over that tank, running two ATI Blue+ and two UVL Super Actinics would look incredible with a couple solar tubes.
Another bonus to adding the solar tubes, you may be able to get a tax credit for them. The ones I am looking at meet the 2005 Energy Policy Act which was extended for 2009, but not 2008. This is for 30% of the cost. My ROI has just gotten smaller.
As always consult your tax consultant as I am not one. Keep your receipts if you purchase these in 2009.
I have been in touch with a solar tube distributor that sells Natural Light Tubular Skylights and they seamed very willing to help with specking the units and options for the reefer. They have an option so you dont have to have the ceiling mount diffuser. This way I can bring the tubes closer to the tank without the tubes open. Still checking into it. They do not know specifics of reefkeeping, but were very helpful.
Solatube was not helpful when I contacted them about adding them over my reef.
If your interested in the company I am in contact with, PM me.
As always consult your tax consultant as I am not one. Keep your receipts if you purchase these in 2009.
I have been in touch with a solar tube distributor that sells Natural Light Tubular Skylights and they seamed very willing to help with specking the units and options for the reefer. They have an option so you dont have to have the ceiling mount diffuser. This way I can bring the tubes closer to the tank without the tubes open. Still checking into it. They do not know specifics of reefkeeping, but were very helpful.
Solatube was not helpful when I contacted them about adding them over my reef.
If your interested in the company I am in contact with, PM me.
hobogato
New member
welcome to the solar club yetti, you wont regret it. be sure to post some pics as you go
i now have two A. millepora frags, three stag frags and a cap frag in the tank that seem to be happy, so i am officially an sps keeper again
will get some pics up soon so i can document their progress.
one other cool thing, chanced across a really healthy S. gigantea in an lfs this week and couldnt pass it up. it is still acclimating to the tank, but looks to be very healthy..... wish me luck
first day in the tank
one day later - already open to about 12" - probably will be about 15" when totally settled in (i know, still a baby)
i now have two A. millepora frags, three stag frags and a cap frag in the tank that seem to be happy, so i am officially an sps keeper again
will get some pics up soon so i can document their progress.
one other cool thing, chanced across a really healthy S. gigantea in an lfs this week and couldnt pass it up. it is still acclimating to the tank, but looks to be very healthy..... wish me luck
first day in the tank
one day later - already open to about 12" - probably will be about 15" when totally settled in (i know, still a baby)
I haven't purchased them yet, but am close. Still in the process of the wife's approval. I love the pictures of the tanks under the natual sun light. With the 2 18's I will finally be able to keep some corals that need more intense light or maybe a clam. Plus it is still winter here, I will probably have to wait till may before the weather cooperates for the install.
Keep posting the pictures as I love seeing them.
Keep posting the pictures as I love seeing them.
Ken Griffith
New member
Ace, you are a great engineer, and have an excellent sense of aesthetics! That is the best looking integration of an aquarium with the molding and decor of the room (two rooms!) that I have ever seen.
Sorry to see your troubles with your tank. If I may venture an observation, your crashes have always followed massive changes.
First you broke down the tank to get the damsel out, which stressed your corals and made them vulnerable to the worms.
Then, you put a whole bunch of new fish in at one time in December - including a 3' Moray (aka nitrogen blasting machine)!!! Fish mostly died in a month?
Two weeks after the black ich, you have another full load-out of new fish simultaneous with a change up of your filtration system.
Maybe setup a quarantine tank in the basement and bring your new fish and corals in one or two at a time. Quarantine them for a month or two?
Sorry to see your troubles with your tank. If I may venture an observation, your crashes have always followed massive changes.
First you broke down the tank to get the damsel out, which stressed your corals and made them vulnerable to the worms.
Then, you put a whole bunch of new fish in at one time in December - including a 3' Moray (aka nitrogen blasting machine)!!! Fish mostly died in a month?
Two weeks after the black ich, you have another full load-out of new fish simultaneous with a change up of your filtration system.
Maybe setup a quarantine tank in the basement and bring your new fish and corals in one or two at a time. Quarantine them for a month or two?
Last edited:
hobogato
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14504051#post14504051 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ken Griffith
Ace, you are a great engineer, and have an excellent sense of aesthetics! That is the best looking integration of an aquarium with the molding and decor of the room (two rooms!) that I have ever seen.
thanks
Sorry to see your troubles with your tank. If I may venture an observation, your crashes have always followed massive changes.
First you broke down the tank to get the damsel out, which stressed your corals and made them vulnerable to the worms.
actually, i didnt break the tank down, i just moved the live rock all around to get the damsels out. IMO that has nothing to do with finding AEFW again
Then, you put a whole bunch of new fish in at one time in December - including a 3' Moray (aka nitrogen blasting machine)!!! Fish mostly died in a month?
i didnt add the eel in december, i have had it in the tank almost two years. it was one of three that made it thru the anemone thru the seio incident. the fish i added were mostly tangs and wrasses - both of which can get very territorial once established. therefore, i wanted to add them all at the same time to try to avoid some of the established fish picking on new additions problems. they didnt die slowly, black ich appeared and within a week the fish that died were dead. i dont really think quarantine would have helped.
Two weeks after the black ich, you have another full load-out of new fish simultaneous with a change up of your filtration system.
Maybe setup a quarantine tank in the basement and bring your new fish and corals in one or two at a time. Quarantine them for a month or two?
thanks for the suggestion, but i dont have a basement and everything seems to be doing well now
hobogato
New member
carl - i think it is because the 8"deep sand bed with 20 large mangroves matured enough to efficiently process the nitrogenous waste. i added a couple of air stones to the sump a few months ago because i thought i was having a pH problem (turned out that the aquacontroller needed calibration). about a month after that, the skimmer really slowed and then stopped producing all together. i thoroughly cleaned skimmer and pump, but it still would barely pull skimmate, even set to skim wet. i think that is part of the reason the gorgonians are doing so well - may try a carnation next
nick - it seems to be doing well, it has eaten and stays open round the clock.
nick - it seems to be doing well, it has eaten and stays open round the clock.
hobogato
New member
havent tested for nitrates or phosphates in a long time - my test kits went bad and i just didnt replace em.
air stones are still in - want to make sure i keep the dissolved O2 where it should be.
these are mangroves i have had for over four years - they grow slowly, but are starting to fill up the inside of the stand. i also added lots of macro algae in the section of the sump that used to house the skimmer to help with nutrient export. it also is growing slowly. i have no cyano or algae issues - only clean the glass about twice a week, so i think my nitrates/phosphates are fine.
i also have almost no cleanup crew besides what is naturally occurring (stomatella, bristle worms, and pods)
i also do a 5 gallon water change twice a week - even tho it is small, it really seems to help.
there are two types of mechanical filtration on the tank.
1. a small amount of carbon changed every two weeks to keep the anemone chemical warfare to a minimum.
2. filter floss in one section of the sump to remove particulate from the water - i put it in on friday morning and remove it on saturday, the rest of the week, it is not in the sump.
i also have some 1"-2" acro frags in the tank that seem to be holding their color and stay polyped out - havent had em long enough to see much growth yet.
air stones are still in - want to make sure i keep the dissolved O2 where it should be.
these are mangroves i have had for over four years - they grow slowly, but are starting to fill up the inside of the stand. i also added lots of macro algae in the section of the sump that used to house the skimmer to help with nutrient export. it also is growing slowly. i have no cyano or algae issues - only clean the glass about twice a week, so i think my nitrates/phosphates are fine.
i also have almost no cleanup crew besides what is naturally occurring (stomatella, bristle worms, and pods)
i also do a 5 gallon water change twice a week - even tho it is small, it really seems to help.
there are two types of mechanical filtration on the tank.
1. a small amount of carbon changed every two weeks to keep the anemone chemical warfare to a minimum.
2. filter floss in one section of the sump to remove particulate from the water - i put it in on friday morning and remove it on saturday, the rest of the week, it is not in the sump.
i also have some 1"-2" acro frags in the tank that seem to be holding their color and stay polyped out - havent had em long enough to see much growth yet.
