Good tips for Top down shots

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13723004#post13723004 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I shoot topdowns every couple of months, and it is just like shoot from the front of the tank. My camera is in Macro mode, f/2.8, with the lowest ISO avialable. They are corals, not fish. You don't need to take high speed action shots. Don't use the flash either.


On my camera if I set my ISO low my shots will be blurry like Primetimes ...... the shutter speed will also super low.

what camera are you using Melev?
 
I've been using Fuji cameras for years, but I'm about to get my first Nikon D70s. In a week or so, I'll try that out with a photo box and post my results.

Higher ISO is probably helping evade camera shake. ;) 400 should be more than plenty.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13724669#post13724669 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I've been using Fuji cameras for years, but I'm about to get my first Nikon D70s. In a week or so, I'll try that out with a photo box and post my results.

Higher ISO is probably helping evade camera shake. ;) 400 should be more than plenty.

I don't understand how a higher ISO would make camera shake ? it will make more noise but there shoould not be any camera shake if you hand is steady. When there is not enough light with a SLR you either up the ISO or slow the shutter speed. You really can't slow shutter speed not unless you have camera on a tripod.

this is Why Brocks picture is blurry his ISO was @ 200

I only use lower ISO with a tripod and I get got results with that. But Top down its different.

I will show you later what will happen low ISO on my top downs shots
 
I said 'evade' camera shake, as in avoid it. You've increased the shutter speed to deal with your caffeinated hands. No more Red Bull before picture-taking. :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13724775#post13724775 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I said 'evade' camera shake, as in avoid it. You've increased the shutter speed to deal with your caffeinated hands. No more Red Bull before picture-taking. :lol:

LOL oops I was not reading what you type right , I was about to say, you where not making any sense to me LMAO


I am not supposed to have caffeine but I still drink it anyways lol.


Take some more top downs with the lens hood and see what happens
:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13724886#post13724886 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Why would you need a lens hood in a photo box?

I don't have a photobox lol I really don't like them. Most of my shots from above look like they are overexposed or have this white cast on the pics. Mr snadman suggested I try to use my lens hood .
 
It sounds like you just haven't found a box that you can be comfortable with. If you can't break the surface with something, you'll always be unimpressed with your shots. You have a great camera.

I saw a thread where a guy built a box with an empty plastic jug. He cut off the base, because the camera lens would go through that end. The opening of the jug (where a lid screwed on) had a piece of acrylic siliconed to it to create a viewing panel. It was a very cheap solution, but it seemed like a clumsy option to me. However, the pictures were great. Perhaps he had a helper to hold the viewing container.

What you want to do it something like this:
<img src="http://melevsreef.com/pics/macna19/melev(scott_osborne).jpg">
 
yeah the one I did use was not like the one you have, It was at my friends shot he has some that are wider and not deep enough.

Where can I get one made ? or buy one like yours online ?
 
Kerry,
Check with Greg Carroll or Kenny/Pookstreet. I have one each from them. The one from Greg has a lip to mount DSLRs.

P1010666.jpg
 
I think the problem that I have is that my frag tank is only 12" high. Therefore the corals are not far away enough from my lense. Maybe I need to get a photobox that will allow my lense to be further away from the corals.
 
I'm not sure if this will work (can't post from work so copying another link) but here are some shots using a basic (non DSLR) camera and a photo box that Marc made

each picture is focused on a different subject but from the same spot

0chromis.jpg


1chromis.jpg


2chromis.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13727999#post13727999 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Primetime33
Now those are nice!!!

I hate to even post anything fter those shots...
Billyclub.jpg

Looks great !
 
Here are some of those pictures, now hosted on my site. These first two pictures were in a green house lit with sunlight only.

marc1.jpg


marc2.jpg


These were under MH lighting, and the water was maybe 10" deep. The camera was within 4" of the corals.

marc3.jpg


marc5.jpg


marc8.jpg
 
Primetime33 - those are awesome, close up, top down, pics :eek1:

Marc - I already brag enough about you - those are so so :rolleyes: haha - joking of course, love the apstasia volcano with zoalava
 
Thanks Kerry and psteeleb. That was one shot out of a million that turned out ok. IIRC, that was at 400 ISO and a photobox.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13739472#post13739472 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rigleautomotive
Does the camera lens need to be right up against the front pane of the box to take a good photo or can it be back a bit.

mine (a Marc build) does not have the lens up against the box. The camera is mounted to the back pane and allows space for the lens to focus. On mine the lens is probably about 4-5" back but on a DSLR with a standard or smaller macro lens, I would guess it would be about 2-3" back.
 
thanks,i was not clear on that.the pics are awesome thru the box so i will try and build one from the scrap acrylic i have laying around this weekend .
 
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