Gravity-fed Auto Top-off System

Random Aquarist

New member
What kind of container could I use to attach a bulkhead and tubing to w/out modifying it? I'm not a very good DIYer, so can someone help me out?
 
Just about any container will work. I use a 5 gallon bucket that has a fitting like this, though I bought mine at Home Depot and scored a couple O-rings that fit the MPT for free, which is just connected via 1/4" poly tubing (also HD) to a float valve in my sump. I drilled a hole just slightly smaller than the MPT and merely screwed it in, with an O-ring between the fitting and the bucket.

No electricity, just physics.

Cheers,
Marty
 
Can you please translate that into Stupidian for me please?

Can you please find an example on HomeDepot.com for me. I don't know much DIY jargon.
 
Fill a sink with water, submerge a cup, flip the cup upside down under water, slowly lift cup out of water. Same principle.
 
I am using a siphon and a float valve. Kent float valve at most aquarium supply places. Drill a 5/8 inch hole in the sump, or the holder you want to use, thread the valve on, attach tubing, and start a siphon from the raised bucket to the sump. It will shut off when full, and open as water is evaporated.
 
It is a sealed air-tight container above the waterlevel whether of the display or sump. It will have 2 hoses/lines from the container to the water level. Both lines should have some kind of shut-off.

One line will be longer than the other in the container but not as deep in the sump/display. A rigid tube is best because this needs to be as high into the container as possible. This will be for air intake.

Second line will be deeper into the display/sump and just barely into the container. This will be for the water transfer.

Fill the container and place it into the final location. Place the air intake at a little below maximum water level in the display/sump. Then place the water transfer tube 2 or 3 inches or more lower than the air intake.

For the first time don't put a lot of water into the container. (in case of leaks) Open the valves and as the air intake sucks up air it will displace water from the container through the water transfer line into the display/sump. As the air intake is covered by the new higher water level it will stop displacing the water in the container and the flow should stop until the next time the intake is exposed.

The reason I said to put the air intake a little lower than the max waterline was even with the air intake coverd a little transfer will still happen until some water is in the air intake.

At this time the check for leaks. It is preferred that you use some type of mechanical uniseal not silicone because as stated earlier they will eventually fail.

If you have no leaks, GREAT (it took me 3 tries to get this right). Siphon some water out of the display sump and make sure everything is working right.

One mod you could do is put a fill valve on the top so instead of removing the whole container and lines you can shut the valves and open the fill hole and seal it afterwards.
 
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