Green Mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus) Breeding Log!

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7484962#post7484962 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ediaz
Mr.Ugly, is the larvae able to exit the kriesel after hatch?
I hope not! :)

The mesh screen is from a reuseable coffee filter. The mesh is open enough for rotifers to pass through, but fine enough to retain the larvae, I think. I had that mesh on a siphon before, and I had larvae get trapped against it.

I'm hoping that I can keep the larvae in a small volume for feeding, and that the mesh will allow metabolites and uneaten rotifers to exchange into the main tank for processing or removal.
 
6-3-06 - ANOTHER spawn - Teh lights went out late tonight...maybe 11:30 PM on the 2nd - we were busy watching a movie when I realized we had left them on too long. ALL lights in the room were turned out. Courtship was already taking place, so I shut off the pumps. I took another look around midnight - still courting but no spawn.

Somewhere between 12:00 and 1:00 AM we had a spawn. Ed was kind enough to forward some advice from a more experienced perspective - while not able to take and apply all his advice, here's what I've changed.

1 - a "new" kriesel. So far I had the most success with my makeshift air-driven kriesel...a hatch of about 25. So this time, I used a new 1 gallon plastic bowl and drilled it up for dual air feeds as before. I did NOT do a cutout for water flow between the kriesel and the 10 gallon tank.

2 - Into the kriesel went roughly 1/2 gallon of the parental tank water, 1/2 gallon of freshly mixed saltwater, and 3 drops of Methelyne Blue. The larval tank's temperature is currently running around 78F.

Let's see if this does any better....I have yet to wire my 4 rpm motor let alone do the whole setup on that stirrer application, but I WILL try that unless this change in kriesel regime produces better results - I'm hoping to start with around 100 larvae, not 1 or 2 ;) Whatever gets me there, that's good enough for starters!

MP
 
Very cool, Matt! Congrats on your success! Please keep us updated, and thanks for the tips.

No luck last night - I watched them for a few hours, but nothing resulted...this time. :)
 
Kayla, you know, the one thing I noticed is that my tank temp went up by a couple degrees over the last 14 days...it typically hovers around 76-77 and is now back up to 80. You may remember that I shifted the photoperiod a couple weeks back too, that kinda threw them off but maybe the temp rise brought them back into the mood?


Matt
 
@#$!@#$!!! It looks like I already crashed BOTH SS Rotifer cultures! One smelled badly of Hydrogen sulfide, the other didn't have an odor but didn't seem to have many rotifers in it. The one that smelled of HS had been fed more heavily than the one that didn't...that's the only difference. Strange though, I'm feeding these cultures the same rate of phyto that my L-Strain get and the L-Strain have been going gangbusters for months.

Hopefully I can get them quickly ramped back up!

Matt
 
6-3-06 - 2:42 PM and well, things look GOOOD in the kriesel. No eggs on the bottom, no eggs with big dots or cloudy eggs....Ed we'll know by the end of the day if that did the trick!

Matt
 
RATBOY! From what I can tell, there is again ONE live larvae in the kriesel upon returning home as of 6-4-06, 1:45 AM. !@#$!@#!

Man, things were looking SOOOO good this afternoon...I just don't know what happened. I'm really going to have to devote time to finishing up the stirrer mechanism (got the power cord, so now all that's left is the motor support and the actual stirring mechanism).

FWIW,

MP
 
OK, so I'm starting to "plan ahead". Lets just say I'm not able to replicate my highest succes (around 25 live larvae) via the stirrer, yet another kriesel, or ANY OTHER incubation device. Let's get back to fertility for a moment.

Based on the feeding, I don't know HOW we could be looking at low fertility from lack of nutrition (remember, the diet is widely varied to now include 4 types of Mysis, 3 or 4 different types of Enriched Brine, + I alternate soaks of Selcon and Vibrance). For the more experienced, any issues with ruling out diet?

Next up, we can probably rule out spawning frequency...this is the 2nd spawn after a two week hiatus in which the male plumped up quite a bit. He's not undernurished and as he intiates the spawns, it's likely that he's feeling his oats and is happy, healthy and ready to go. It seems unlikely that either fish is running out of gametes due to all the mating. So, even though our male has proved his fertility on "some level", all the same, perhaps it's time to rotate him out and try another male?

OK, so there's ONE THING I CANNOT change which is the tank height. My mandarins spawn ON the surface, not "UNDER" it. Is it perhaps possible that we're just never going to get the fertility rate I desire due to the tank height being "restrictive"? Do I tear out all the rockwork to FORCE them to start their mating dance from the bottom (since they already COULD start there if they wanted, but instead usually CHOOSE to start between 4 and 8 inches below the surface)?

Can ANYONE think of anything else to try? Could specific gravity / salinity play a factor in fertility? Temperature? ANYTHING else to try?

I'm wracking my brains here...I'm kinda bummed that I haven't been able to produce the one limited success we had with our hatch rate...it seems like every spawn lately is producing ONE fertile baby which is REDICULOUS! WHY ONE? Why not 50 or none?! WHY ALWAYS ONE?!

Ed, I know I still have variations and concepts to work through but so far things just aren't going my way! I've been keeping pretty thorough records but I can't help but think I'm overlooking something.

FWIW,

MP
 
MP,

First, I have no experience in breeding saltwater fish (only freshwater which are WAY easier). So take my comments as a novice.

1. I wouldn't try to rotate out the male, getting a pair breeding is hard enough!

2. Since they are spawning and you are having SOME hatch, I would not change anything in the tank yet.

3. I would focus on the eggs. There are still a ton of variations you could probably try. When I tried raising nudibranchs I always had a TON of variations I could have tried raising the eggs, I don't see it being any different with fish.

4. I would follow Ed's suggestion of antibiotics/anti fungal before I try anything else. I've read numerous people/threads that say the eggs are very easily infected and seems to be the #1 thing you haven't tried yet in this thread.

Just my observations and trying to encourage you. Don't worry about the low hatch rate yet, you JUST started this whole project :) Patience and trying a variety of methods with the eggs should eventually lead to success.

Brian
 
2. Since they are spawning and you are having SOME hatch, I would not change anything in the tank yet.

The mean hatch is somewhere between 0 or 1 larvae per spawn; the average spawn size I'd estimate as being 250 eggs. So, the HATCH RATE is somewhere around 0.2% - simply HORRIBLE. For all purposes this is really equivelent to having no hatch.

FWIW, the only additional observation I can make on the last spawn was that when I got home and found the 1 larvae all the remaining eggs were on the bottom, cloudy; as you could see from my earlier observations, things looked GREAT around the time the should have started hatching.

MP
 
THE STIRRER HAS BEEN BUILT!

Ok to backtrack, first a couple pictures of the "professional grade" mini hatching jar that failed miserably.

DSCN2759_hatchingjar_setup.jpg


DSCN2763_hatchingjar_closeup.jpg


Ok, so back to the STIRRER! Here's a quick materials list:

1 gallon plastic round fish bowl
6" Nylon propeller
Silicone Air Tubing
1/4" rigid air tubing
4 rpm timing motor
8' lamp plug
eletric "twist" connections
5 minute epoxy

So basically, I used as much easy to find stuff as possible...home depot, my LFS, 1 trip to the local hobby store and 1 trip to a custom fishing rod builder in Indiana who just happened to have the motors for around $3!

I may post some pictures down the line, but for now the real deal is seeing the thing in action! More quicktime vid...turn off the volume, no reason to listen to the TV and the camera constantly refocusing! It's 1 minute of stirring, about 16 mb.

http://www.cichlidrecipe.com/nanoreef/DSCN2769.mov

So, honestly, seeing a "stirrer" in action the thing looks SO DARN SLOW but it DOES seem to live up to the "hype"...the surface water slowly spun around - it takes around 5 minutes for the 4 drops of Methylene Blue to be fully distributed in the water (FWIW the water in the video is just straight cold tapwater).

MP
 
MP,

Very cool video! I had no idea that the propeller would spin THAT slow. Can you explain the reasoning behind 4rpm instead of say, 8-12? I know too fast would hurt the eggs, just curious.

Nice to see the methylene blue, looks like you are ready for the next hatch! Good luck!

Brian
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7500038#post7500038 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CirolanidHunter
MP,

Very cool video! I had no idea that the propeller would spin THAT slow. Can you explain the reasoning behind 4rpm instead of say, 8-12? I know too fast would hurt the eggs, just curious.

Nice to see the methylene blue, looks like you are ready for the next hatch! Good luck!

Brian

Brian, it barely moves anything...only slightly more circulation than just throwing an air feed into a specimen cup. The big difference is the rotation of the water on the horizontal plane vs. the vertical plane that you get in a kriesel; that and there's no air driven circulation. Personally, if it works better than the kriesel I'll be amazed and THANKFUL that I bit the bullet and followed the more experienced folks (like RSMAN). Hopefully the next spawn will come tonight.

MP
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7495167#post7495167 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CirolanidHunter
MP,

First, I have no experience in breeding saltwater fish (only freshwater which are WAY easier). So take my comments as a novice.


Brian,your comments are very accurate!Full of good aquaristic common sense,no matter Sw or FW.:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7495167#post7495167 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CirolanidHunter


4. I would follow Ed's suggestion of antibiotics/anti fungal before I try anything else. I've read numerous people/threads that say the eggs are very easily infected and seems to be the #1 thing you haven't tried yet in this thread.

Brian

I have to echo Luis's comments too Brian. BTW, I DID try Methelyne Blue with the last spawn and everything LOOKED GREAT up until 20+ hours in. Granted, Ed provided 4 possible options to look into, MB being only one of them (but also being the one we used exclusively at the African Cichlid hatchery). I've also seen MANY folks artificially incubating without any anti-fungals at all...heck my best hatch was with no chemicals added.

That's really the biggest kick in the pants, the fact that I got a hatch of around 25 in the air-driven kriesel and got to raise them to about 5 days and NOW, duplicating what I did, I can't repeat it. I really feel I'm overlooking something.

MP
 
So I'm sitting here with an empty stirrer and rereading the entire thread to see what I can pick up on. Here's my thoughts for the evening.

I had my best hatch with about 90% FRESHLY mixed water. Ed may have caught onto that already as he mentioned using freshly mixed sterile water in a PM (it's on my TO-DO list Ed!)

I'm thinking about how the kriesel really works..centripital and centrifugal force and got off reading up on my physics...definitely some conficting information out there. Anyway, in a nutshell, if you start stirring things up they want to "stay the course" and go off on a tangent (sure, pun intended if you like). What's keeping the eggs from running into the sides of the "kriesel" type setups? Technically centripital force. Start them spinning up and you get the virtual "centrifugal force" that wants to pull them off on the tangent. The balance is what keeps them in circulation.

Here's the interesting parts...since I'm dealing with loose eggs, they have to be swirling pretty fast to overcome gravity wanting to pull them all to the bottom..well they're slightly positive boyancy helps counter gravity. What I can't quite put my figure on is what produces the "centripital" force that prevents them from hitting the sides of the kriesel? It's not like we're "swinging a ball attached to a string" where the mechanical attatchment of the string is what's keeping them in circular motion...it must be coming from something else. The best I can come up with is the water itself acting somewhat like liquid ball bearings between eggs that come close to the hard surface of the bowl. But again, what I'm NOT seeing within the kriesel is the concentration of the eggs, larvae and food items in the CENTER of the circular motion created by the kriesel. Ideally that's what we'd want, right?

The best thing I can come up with is looking back at Jason's kriesel design that used a slow water feed into the bowl. This created some water movement within the bowl...adding it at the edges and exiting the kriesel at the center hole. This has me thinking...the current of water moving from outside to center while in a circular motion may generate more centripital force than centrifugal force, thereby concentrating more of the eggs at the center area. If I perhaps make ANOTHER kriesel with openings on BOTH sides and use a REALLY FINE MESH (could use some help sourcing that) then perhaps we could acheive the perfect concentration of eggs in the center of the kriesel...the only concern being the flow rate THROUGH the kriesel would have to be very low (perhaps the minijet at it's lowest setting will work).

Granted, I'm doing a LOT of thinking on something that SHOULDN'T have to be so complicated. In Sadvoy's article that I cited a few weeks back in the thread, I reread it and noted that while the details are not specific, to some up their hatching method they basically dumped the eggs in an aquarium with an air feed, that was it.

Then there's the matter of the eggs ending up on the bottom. It was proposed earlier that maybe, prior to hatching, their bouyancy changes? Perhaps if the eggs start to sink in preparation for hatching that could be part of the problem...i.e. they get stuck on the bottom and fizzle out right before hatching.

All of this thinking 'cuz I simply want 100 or 200 larvae to try to raise instead of 1 or 5!

And then there's the whole other issue of WHY air would cause problems with incubation! I'm still not really sure I get it. Maybe airstones are the ticket here? From my experience, we know that air driven circulation CAN work, but why MIGHT RSMAN, Mai and others suggest the propeller-style stirrer as a BETTER alternative. We definitely get a different circulation pattern that is perhaps more natural. I'm also willing to consider that perhaps I got the air flow *JUST RIGHT* in that one successful hatch and haven't duplicated it since.

We also know that the powerhead driven stirrer works, but in my initial design it's not that efficient and difficult to set up, work with and get babies out of.

I ALMOST wish it was a fertility issue..that's something I could understand!

Keeping my fingers crossed for that next spawning and hoping the stirrer does the trick. If I get another dozen spawns or so I should know more...right?

Feeling like Dr. Cambell in "The Medicine Man", at least when it comes to hatching my mandarins!

MP
 
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