GREEN.........why
- Thread starter justy
- Start date
milsaltnewbie07
New member
Post infi about your system. , lights, parameters etc
Tank details 300ltr set up three years.
8 bulb ATI sunpower 24"
Tank parameters are stable two part with doser Kh 7.8 Ca 420 sg 35
I have quite a lot of filtration, live rock, 2 ltr of siporax, 4 ltr of matrix and i use aquaforest products. No3 has ran around 5ppm for the best part of two years since adding the siporax and matrix and carbon dosing nitrates fell to 0.25 Po4 runs around 0.08 to 0.04
Mg 1350 k400
I run about 100ml of phos minus in a reactor.
10 fish fed well, generally colours are good growth is a bit slow.
20 ltr wc every two to three weeks.
Thats it.
8 bulb ATI sunpower 24"
Tank parameters are stable two part with doser Kh 7.8 Ca 420 sg 35
I have quite a lot of filtration, live rock, 2 ltr of siporax, 4 ltr of matrix and i use aquaforest products. No3 has ran around 5ppm for the best part of two years since adding the siporax and matrix and carbon dosing nitrates fell to 0.25 Po4 runs around 0.08 to 0.04
Mg 1350 k400
I run about 100ml of phos minus in a reactor.
10 fish fed well, generally colours are good growth is a bit slow.
20 ltr wc every two to three weeks.
Thats it.
bif24701
New member
Some acros will turn a shade of green when placed in new systems with high lighting and more nutrients. I think this is the fluorescence growing in the tissue and after awhile the true color starts to grow in as the coral adjusts to the environment.
Could be wrong just my observations.
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Well it's definitely true some corals get their green on when put in a new system -- Although besides that, it's typically nutrient related, or an abundance of particular trace elements. Look at the red sea coral color kit, you'll see to bring out colors X, Y, or Z, you need to dose certain elements. Can't recall which particular element helps green pigment right now.. But that may be one of the first things to look at.
One other thing I see advised, and personally believe may be a good idea, is a series of larger water changes over the course of a week. Maybe 3 30% changes spaced over a week, possibly 4 over 1.5 weeks.
I've heard the series of water changes explained as a "reset", and I honestly think there may be something to that. Changing 10% of water weekly means 90% of your old water remains, and that 10% of new trace elements will continually get sucked up faster as the tank matures. Worst case scenario, it won't hurt.
One other thing I see advised, and personally believe may be a good idea, is a series of larger water changes over the course of a week. Maybe 3 30% changes spaced over a week, possibly 4 over 1.5 weeks.
I've heard the series of water changes explained as a "reset", and I honestly think there may be something to that. Changing 10% of water weekly means 90% of your old water remains, and that 10% of new trace elements will continually get sucked up faster as the tank matures. Worst case scenario, it won't hurt.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I dose fauna marin trace elements in my balling salts.
I do have the dose right but i have to dose 24 ml of calcium chloride a day and 116ml of sodium bicarbonate i wonder if the trace elements are being overdosed?
I also found a broken rusty impeller spindle in my tunze nano stream yesterday. That probably dosent help?
I dose fauna marin trace elements in my balling salts.
I do have the dose right but i have to dose 24 ml of calcium chloride a day and 116ml of sodium bicarbonate i wonder if the trace elements are being overdosed?
I also found a broken rusty impeller spindle in my tunze nano stream yesterday. That probably dosent help?
1) Extremely likely the trace elements are building up in the system, and some are being used faster/slower than others. Stop dosing and see what happens.
2) Remove the Tunze immediately if you haven't already.
3) Water change at least twice a week for a month -- It will help get excess stuff out of your system. And again, there's no real downsides here.
