griss' Tank Upgrade Thread
- Thread starter griss
- Start date
Not through the thread. It's between the threaded fitting and the bottom glass.
Yes, the ring in pic 2 screws onto the thread. Without it, the standpipe is wobbly. With the ring screwed on, no wobble. Then the adapter in pic 3 screws onto the thread.
We shall see. Pro Clear (provided plumbing) is strange, first it's metric PVC and the company is located in Florida which makes it, at least in my mind, even stranger. Plus, there's not a traditional bulkhead for the drain or return pipes.
The overflow is so crowded, deep and dark, I can't really tell what's at the bottom lol. Maybe once I drain the citric acid tonight I'll be able to get a better look.
Can the ring be eliminated? If you just thread the adapter on, can it reach the glass? This would be best because then you just need a seal between the adapter and the bottom of the tank. With that ring you need two seals.
My “down tubes” came pre installed with those plastic rings. I’ve never seen them off.
You should have 3 O-rings, (2 same size, 1 smaller for return) place inside the black screw on coupler, and hand tighten.
So, on mine, that plastic ring is first underneath and holds the overflow tube. I assume Pro-clear has a gasket on the bottom glass inside to make the seal, but this part came pre assembled to me, so I can’t see that.
All I had to do from there is screw those black PVC pipes (3) your pic number 3, onto each pipe, but, an O-Ring was required inside those black pipes to complete that seal. Both overflows have a O-ring and the Return the same.
In addition, each overflow has a “screw” type silencer dropped into the overflow from the top.
Then, from each black pipe, for me, I used a metric to standard coupler to complete the rest of the plumbing in standard.
I would think our tanks are the same, but, you never know.
Here’s a pic under mine. They do look them same.
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vlangel
Premium Member
O my goodness George, I sure have missed a lot. I couldn't find your thread so had about 5 pages to catch up on.
Sorry about the leak, Uhgg, that's why I only do the most simple plumbing and that with flex tubing.
On a positive note, I think you nailed the aquascape. I love it, except I agree about the center placed Tonga rock that Mrs Griss placed. Sneak it someplace else to the right or left but not dead center, LOL.
Sorry about the leak, Uhgg, that's why I only do the most simple plumbing and that with flex tubing.
On a positive note, I think you nailed the aquascape. I love it, except I agree about the center placed Tonga rock that Mrs Griss placed. Sneak it someplace else to the right or left but not dead center, LOL.
I'll have to check tonight.
Makes sense. I have o-rings in the pic 3 adapter, so I'm good there. The more I'm thinking about this, one of those plastic rings (I can't remember which one) came loose when we moved the tank. I actually found it loose in the stand. I wonder if the standpipe shifted and got debris under it and that's breaking the seal from the gasket that we all assume is in there. Another thing I'll have to check.
Thanks, the Tonga rock has already been relocated. I've been so focused on this leak, I haven't thought about posting updated pics.
Thank all of you, for all your help and sharing of ideas. Sometimes, when you're too close to a problem, you don't think to look into the most basic simple, fixes. Hopefully, one of the suggestions will fix the leak.
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Yea mine is like Uncle99 described. Good luck and I’m sure you’ll figure it out
Interesting. Last night, I put the threaded ring back on, filled the overflow with citric acid and put a bucket under the pipe. 24 hours later and less than a 1/4 cup of acid was in there. It was dripping a LOT less.
Took the threaded ring off and giggled the standpipe. It’s a bit loose but I can’t simply pull it out. This also, led to the drip frequency I saw last night.
I also tried to unscrew it from the bottom glass but it won’t turn.
So, I’m thinking it’s partially siliconed in there. I’m going to neutralize the acid, remove it, put freshwater in the overflow and then remove that. Tighten everything back down and refill the overflow and test for leaks.
My thinking is, *maybe* the acid dissolved whatever was breaking the seal?
Took the threaded ring off and giggled the standpipe. It’s a bit loose but I can’t simply pull it out. This also, led to the drip frequency I saw last night.
I also tried to unscrew it from the bottom glass but it won’t turn.
So, I’m thinking it’s partially siliconed in there. I’m going to neutralize the acid, remove it, put freshwater in the overflow and then remove that. Tighten everything back down and refill the overflow and test for leaks.
My thinking is, *maybe* the acid dissolved whatever was breaking the seal?
Good plan, see what effect that has.
Do all three leak, or just one?
Did you have to install the overflow pipes?
Well, I still have a leak.
Just the one is leaking. As I mentioned, after we moved the tank from the previous owner’s house, I found the ring inside the stand. So, maybe something is still in the seal.
I did not have to install the overflow pipes, they were installed when I picked the tank up.
I think I’m going to have to pull the pipe but I’m unsure how to safely do that without damaging it. Removing the ring and pulling up does nothing. I tried to unscrew it and it won’t turn.
Looking closer, I’m pretty sure the overflow/standpipe was siliconed in. I might have to just use brute force to pull it out and hope I don’t damage anything. That overflow (as you Pro Clear owners know) has no room to do anything in it.
Or, would putting a ton of silicone around the underside threaded fitting and screwing the ring back on potentially seal it?
Or, would putting a ton of silicone around the underside threaded fitting and screwing the ring back on potentially seal it?
vlangel
Premium Member
Yes, much better!
It’s 19mm glass so it can take it.
The seal you have a leak in needs to come out and inspected. You may discover the reason which would be great.
-I would check the rubber seal to ensure it’s actually there and not damaged, clean of any debris.
-That it Is fitting flush between the glass and the standpoint flange.
I thought I read you “found” a seal? Could it be for the leaky standpipe?
I’m not in favour of using any silicone for this critical seal. It’s kinda guess work. It could work, then not work, and now with all your stuff in, you’re a bit screwed.
You’ve spent a ton of time getting this far.
Unfortunately this IMM is a crucial juncture where “might work” won’t cut it.
Sorry, to add a complication, but I think well worth it.
Do it right and do it once.
So, despite the fact that I can’t gently pull or twist the pipe out, just yank it? That’s a bit nerve wracking.
Do you think the overflow pipe is not already siliconed in? If so, why if it so hard to remove? I know you think there’s a gasket/seal but, would they have used silicone too?
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