Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

[moab]

I use just a simple aqua clear hob on my qt tank, never had an issue with it yet. even during power outages. it fires right back up.

Joe

I was using a hang on the back AquaClear on one of my quarantine tanks. If I unplugged this filter and then plugged it back in to the power it always lost siphon 100% of the time. I had to always restart the siphon by pouring water into the top of the filter. I liked the design and it gets fantastic reviews on Amazon, but I stopped using this filter due to the one I had would not restart during a power failure. I do not recommend this filter for any tank from my experience with it. Maybe you got an extra good one?

I have two of the Tetra Whisper internal power filters that do restart by themselves in the event of a power failure. One has about twice the amount of water flow than the other one even though they are the same exact model. So far this brand has worked great for me.

 

[Dr. Reef]

i am using aquaclear hang on back filter and i have never had a siphon or restarting issue ever nor for no electric or while i turn it off for feeding.

Note: anyways i recommend hobbyist to check them out and make sure you have no issues with HOB filters not starting back up. After all HOB is the heart of your tank and got to make sure its keeps beating.

 

[blackstrat]

Because I have a small tank (55g) I do not keep a permanent QT.
When I anticipate buying a new fish, I then set up my QT.
No chance of it cycling of course, so I check it every 3 days for Ammonia, Nitrates and Nitrates. 30% water change when numbers are on the rise.
So far, it's worked well for me.

 

[Dr. Reef]

Because I have a small tank (55g) I do not keep a permanent QT.
When I anticipate buying a new fish, I then set up my QT.
No chance of it cycling of course, so I check it every 3 days for Ammonia, Nitrates and Nitrates. 30% water change when numbers are on the rise.
So far, it's worked well for me.

thanks for sharing. yes this method is what i call emergency QT and it works as long as u keep eye on ammonia and nitrites and do water changes.
one helpful tip u can give u is that u can have a few filters laying around in ur main tank/sump that can be pulled out and used in qt can help keeping parameters a bit more stable when needed.

 

[blackstrat]

thanks for sharing. yes this method is what i call emergency QT and it works as long as u keep eye on ammonia and nitrites and do water changes.
one helpful tip u can give u is that u can have a few filters laying around in ur main tank/sump that can be pulled out and used in qt can help keeping parameters a bit more stable when needed.

The "few filters laying around in your main tank....pulled out..." I have questions about, if you don't mind.
Why have them? Where and how would these loose filters work.
Surely they are not floating around the tank ?
Please provide details and theory for my edification.

Thanks

 

[Dr. Reef]

The "few filters laying around in your main tank....pulled out..." I have questions about, if you don't mind.
Why have them? Where and how would these loose filters work.
Surely they are not floating around the tank ?
Please provide details and theory for my edification.

Thanks

no problem, let me try to explain. i have a hang on back filter (hob) on my 20gal qt. if i was to do what ur doing that is filling qt up with tank water and just doing water changes. its great works great but u have no bacteria neutralizing the ammonia thus requiring a bit more work from a hobbyist to keep on top of the water quality.
if u had a few filter cartridges used in hob. somewhere in ur sump. i place them in sump. they will after few weeks get bacteria growing on them.
when needed u can pull them out and use them in the qt and thus u have instant bio filter (full of bacteria) that can neutralize ammonia and thus requiring a little less water changes and a little less attention from hobbyist.
saving u time and money on extra water changes that may not be that much required. and as that ammonia grows so will bacteria on the filter thus catching up soon and there will be a time in few days that there will be enough bacteria that will take care of the ammonia 100% and not requiring water changes anymore (except regular bi weekly changes).
in other situation like urs there is no bacteria (or very little that get transfered via water from main)(which is not much if any).
so ur having to stay on top of water changes and ammonia causing some added stress on fish and more work and bacteria doesnt catches up for a long time.
so basically having an established filter handy is like a shot of steroid a little boost for ur system.
after all a steady system is better than unstable.
hope it helps.
happy reefing.

 

[blackstrat]

Thanks bnumair,

I do understand biological filtering but, I don't have a sump.
My filter is a Fluval 405 a cannister not a hob.
How could I utilize the good idea with my setup?

Many thanks

 

[Dr. Reef]

Thanks bnumair,

I do understand biological filtering but, I don't have a sump.
My filter is a Fluval 405 a cannister not a hob.
How could I utilize the good idea with my setup?

Many thanks

r you using fluval 405 on main or qt or both?
i am assuming u have 2 separate fluval 1 for main and 1 for qt.
if i am not mistaken there are small compartments in the 405 that u can place media in?
if thats right (i never had one) then u can have some ceramic rings in a sock and leave then hiding somewhere in ur main tank and when ur ready to put a qt together pull the sock with rings and place them in the fluval 405 giving u instant bacteria.

 

[blackstrat]

No QT is hob.
So that I understand, placing a bio ball in a sock in the back of my main tank on the sand will trap usable bacteria enough to aid in nitrates in QT?
Hmm.
And then place dt sock into hob filter media compartment?
Will this result in qt being cycled, or merely aid in the breakdown of harmful stuff while guaranteening new fish?

Thanks so much

 

[Dr. Reef]

nitrates dont get broke down in a bare bottom QT. they have to be exported via water changes. having ceramic media in sock and moving it to qt helps in adding bacteria that neutralizes ammonia and nitrites. its basically and instant cycle.

 

[swine]

I know its been said that a tank size of 10 to 20 is fine for a QT. Im limited on space and would like to just get a 10 gallon QT. Im sure it depends for some fish but assuming the fish is healthy and can be in the tank the minimum amount of time what is the largest differentiation in tank requirements would you put in a 10 gallon tank? For instance, can I put a suggested 30 gallon tank size fish in a 10 gallon tank for two weeks?


edit: JK, just found this
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php

Wouldn't mind other opinions though

 

[Dr. Reef]

10-20gal is fine. in ur case if ur limited to space then a 10 gal will work. just keep water parameters in check and top off evaporated water. as long as your on top of things and dont let parameters swing too wildly a 10 gal will work.
regarding size compared to some fish. well i have walked into fish store all over the USA and seen large breed fish in 10gal tanks.
just remember qt or a small tank at LFS is just a motel where fish checks in and stays few nights and move out. as long as room is livable and clean it will be ok.

 

[swine]

10-20gal is fine. in ur case if ur limited to space then a 10 gal will work. just keep water parameters in check and top off evaporated water. as long as your on top of things and dont let parameters swing too wildly a 10 gal will work.
regarding size compared to some fish. well i have walked into fish store all over the USA and seen large breed fish in 10gal tanks.
just remember qt or a small tank at LFS is just a motel where fish checks in and stays few nights and move out. as long as room is livable and clean it will be ok.

Great, that sounds good. Just wanted to make sure that 2 weeks to a month in a 10 gal wouldnt seriously harm the fish.

Do you guys quarantine snails, crabs, shrimp ect too?

 

[Dr. Reef]

i personally dont QT any inverts, i temp acclimate them then slow drip them and then rinse them in tank water before moving them into the main tank.
inverts usually dont do well in shipping/transport and also dont do well with water quality/parameter changes. nitrates are a big no no as well.
so its best to slowly drip acclimate them to ur tank and then release and due to the stated facts i rather not jump tanks too many times. just my 2 cents.

 

[Wind Seeker]

is there any benefit to add formalin to the proprizo/copper protocol? And if yes, how would you incorporate it. Also, any benift of doing a FW dip prior to conducting the above? TIA

 

[Dr. Reef]

is there any benefit to add formalin to the proprizo/copper protocol? And if yes, how would you incorporate it. Also, any benift of doing a FW dip prior to conducting the above? TIA

its never a good idea to mix meds. formalin and prazipro can be used and the way i do it (used to) is bath in formalin and then followed by prazipro treatment in qt for 2 weeks. then 100% water change and followed by copper if required, or just qt for 4 weeks after prazipro.

Note: i do have formalin but i dont use it anymore. not due to any bad effects or nothing but i just do prazipro as a bath and then treatment for 2 weeks. Formalin is also kinda hard to get anymore. most saltwater store online and local dont carry it.

FORMALIN:
Formalin is used as a bath treatment to control external parasitic infections of fish. It is extremely effective against most protozoans, as well as some of the larger parasites such as monogenetic trematodes. Formalin effectively kills parasites on gills, skin, and fins. It is not the preferred treatment for external bacterial or fungal infections. In addition, high concentrations of formalin are used to control fungi on fish eggs. Formalin is not effective against internal infections of any type.

PRAZIPRO:
liquid concentrate praziquantel treatment for aquarium use. Controls disease conditions caused by flukes, tapeworm, flatworm, and internal parasites. Use in freshwater or marine aquariums. Offers rapid control without negatively impacting your biological filtration. May also be used as a preventive. Not recommended for reef aquariums with Feather Duster Worms or other ornamental worms.


*descriptions are copied here from their respective websites.

 

[fio1022]

Hi,
I'm sorry if this was addressed already.
I started my first qt about 5wks ago.
20g with penguin filter (2bio wheels), both new.
I added 2 shrimp and let rot for about a week.i got a strong ammonia reading so removed shrimp.
Well after 3 weeks, the reading stated to come down slowly.another week later and ammonia IsIs starting to creep back up.
I havnt added anything else to feed ammonia.
I know patience is the hardest part but am I overlooking something?

 

[cbbram]

Hi,
I'm sorry if this was addressed already.
I started my first qt about 5wks ago.
20g with penguin filter (2bio wheels), both new.
I added 2 shrimp and let rot for about a week.i got a strong ammonia reading so removed shrimp.
Well after 3 weeks, the reading stated to come down slowly.another week later and ammonia IsIs starting to creep back up.
I havnt added anything else to feed ammonia.
I know patience is the hardest part but am I overlooking something?

I added bacteria (supplement)... seemed to help with the cycle.

 

[Dr. Reef]

after 3 weeks ammonia was going down but didnt hit 0? and if it didnt hit 0 then ur still cycling and you will have to wait it out.
Once ammonia and nitrites hit zero your tank is cycled and ready to go.

 

[fio1022]

Thanks for the r assurance.
I kind of knew the answer,I just was not sure and needed to hear it.
Any idea how long nitrite portion of cycle will take?