Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

$300 is definitely out of my range lol, so i think ill go with what you recommend to be better and that would be the salifert copper?

Salifert-Copper-Test-Kit-99.jpg
 
yes that is the salifert copper kit, i have heard its easy to use and better than seachem.
 
Thanks for all the great information. My QT is up and running and now home to our first two fishes (clowns). My order for Prazipro didn't come in as expected, so just wanted to check to make sure that it's OK to add to the QT with the fish already in. Understand that this will start my counter at that point, but wanted to make sure.

Also, would like some guidance on what to look for when oberving the fish over the next several weeks. I am familiar with ick from fresh water and assume it's the same visible white spots on salt water fish, but what other things am I looking for, visible and behavioral?

Final question - Just wanted to confirm that after the two weeks with Prazipro, do a 25% water change, twice during the 3rd week, and go ahead and change the filter. Should I switch to a carbon based filter at that point? Then continue to observe and watch QT parameters doing a water change weekly or as needed.
 
yes ur 2 week counter will start at the time u dose prazipro. after 2 weeks do 4-5x 25% water changes. no need to change filters as they contain bacteria and replacing them will cause a cycle. u can run carbon in some other form (reactor or media sock) if u like.
then over next 4 weeks look for worms, ich, heavy breathing white or black specks. fish not eating etc.
 
yes ur 2 week counter will start at the time u dose prazipro. after 2 weeks do 4-5x 25% water changes. no need to change filters as they contain bacteria and replacing them will cause a cycle. u can run carbon in some other form (reactor or media sock) if u like.
then over next 4 weeks look for worms, ich, heavy breathing white or black specks. fish not eating etc.

Over what period of time should the 4-5x 25% water changes be done?

What paramters do you recommend for your QT. My 10 Gal is running at 1.025 SG at about 76 degrees. Which parameter is likely to increase now that there is bio load in the tank? How fast with just the two fish and a HOB filter running?
 
I have a 25g QT setup, cycled and have 2 damsels in it currently. I do weekly 20% water changes and watch NO3 (0 -0.2) and NO4 (20), no ammonia, PH is 8.2 and sg = 1.025, temp is 79.2 - 80.2. Other than the damsels, how many fish can I safely put together and do they all need to be treated before being put into DT or just watched? Damsels will stay in QT. I have 2 HOB Penguin 200 filters with bacteria activated blue filter material from DT sump.

Sorry my list for fish:

1 - Flame Angelfish (Last)
(Centropyge loriculus)

3 - Bartlett's Anthias
(Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

2 - True Percula Clownfish (paired, tank-bred)
(Amphiprion percula)

1 - Orange-Back Fairy Wrasse
(Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

1 - Yellowtail Reef Basslet
(Liopropoma mitratum)
 
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Over what period of time should the 4-5x 25% water changes be done?

What paramters do you recommend for your QT. My 10 Gal is running at 1.025 SG at about 76 degrees. Which parameter is likely to increase now that there is bio load in the tank? How fast with just the two fish and a HOB filter running?

in qt i dont monitor much, just salinity and temp. salinity i keep at 1.026 and temp i keep it at 80-81. reason for higher temp is that warmer water fastens some parasites life cycle.
other than just ammonia and nitrites. rest is not relevant in qt.
i personally do 2x 50% water change with in 1 week. reason is to get all the prazipro out of the water in case u have to dose some other med. mixing meds is never a good idea.
ammonia and nitrites are only 2 u need to keep eye on. if qt was cycled properly you shouldnt have an issue.
 
I have a 25g QT setup, cycled and have 2 damsels in it currently. I do weekly 20% water changes and watch NO3 (0 -0.2) and NO4 (20), no ammonia, PH is 8.2 and sg = 1.025, temp is 79.2 - 80.2. Other than the damsels, how many fish can I safely put together and do they all need to be treated before being put into DT or just watched? Damsels will stay in QT. I have 2 HOB Penguin 200 filters with bacteria activated blue filter material from DT sump.

Sorry my list for fish:

1 - Flame Angelfish (Last)
(Centropyge loriculus)

3 - Bartlett's Anthias
(Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

2 - True Percula Clownfish (paired, tank-bred)
(Amphiprion percula)

1 - Orange-Back Fairy Wrasse
(Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

1 - Yellowtail Reef Basslet
(Liopropoma mitratum)

Those fish are all mostly easy and small size fish. you can probably get away will all at same time but if u see any problem from the damsels then use a divider made of egg crate to separate them.
i would just use prazipro first 2 weeks and then observe over next 4 weeks after that.
some fish on the list are not advisable for copper treatment just in case.

Note: sorry i didnt notice the quantities ur planning on keeping (some upto 3) so divide the list into 2. get the clowns and anthias first time and then rest next time.
 
Could not find the answer to this question. If treating with copper based medication (I'm currently using Coppersafe) does evaporation water need to be treated as well or is it like salt where the copper does not evaporate with the water?
 
Could not find the answer to this question. If treating with copper based medication (I'm currently using Coppersafe) does evaporation water need to be treated as well or is it like salt where the copper does not evaporate with the water?

very good question....
as water evaporates it leave behind the minerals salts and metals. so as tank water evaporates it leaves the copper behind as well so increasing the copper content slightly. this is why an ato is a good option for a qt tank.
so a short answer to ur question is no u dont have to treat ato water.
 
Tank has been in Hypo for 16 days now. All fish are doing well and eating very well. salt has been dead on 1.009. temp at 81. i have 1 powder blue tang with a small white spot on his pectoral fin. Could this still be ich? I also treated with Prazipro about 6 days ago. My Hippo has no noticable spots and is looking great. I will continue to treat for another 2-3 weeks. Cant wait till this is over.
 
I don't have an ato on my qt tank. I wasn't thinking the other day and just dumped in fresh but very cold ro/di water to top off. Ended up losing a $50 flasher wrasse so I highly recommend to slow drip your topoff water if it is not preheated.
 
Tank has been in Hypo for 16 days now. All fish are doing well and eating very well. salt has been dead on 1.009. temp at 81. i have 1 powder blue tang with a small white spot on his pectoral fin. Could this still be ich? I also treated with Prazipro about 6 days ago. My Hippo has no noticeable spots and is looking great. I will continue to treat for another 2-3 weeks. Cant wait till this is over.

u cant take a chance without being 100% sure. but my 6th sense is probably ich due to simple fact that qt is bare bottom and there is no sand in the system.
i would wait it out. 2-3 weeks after last ich falls off is not a bad idea just more assuring that it will be a clean transfer.
 
I don't have an ato on my qt tank. I wasn't thinking the other day and just dumped in fresh but very cold ro/di water to top off. Ended up losing a $50 flasher wrasse so I highly recommend to slow drip your topoff water if it is not preheated.

very good advice. when ever ur adding water (whether its fresh water for ato or saltwater for water change) parameters like temp ph salinity etc need to be same. otherwise u will shock ur tankmates.
 
u cant take a chance without being 100% sure. but my 6th sense is probably ich due to simple fact that qt is bare bottom and there is no sand in the system.
i would wait it out. 2-3 weeks after last ich falls off is not a bad idea just more assuring that it will be a clean transfer.

My 220 DT is in hypo. Couldnt catch all the fish.. has rock and sand in it.
 
My 220 DT is in hypo. Couldnt catch all the fish.. has rock and sand in it.

dahhhh.. i had the dumb moment for a second.
well i would still not take a chance. ich can be gone from the skin but still could be in the gills and that cannot be seen with a naked eye.
so wait it out still. give it 2-3 weeks after last ich is observed and fish seems not breathing heavy due to ich in gills.
 
u cant take a chance without being 100% sure. but my 6th sense is probably ich due to simple fact that qt is bare bottom and there is no sand in the system.
i would wait it out. 2-3 weeks after last ich falls off is not a bad idea just more assuring that it will be a clean transfer.

Well the spot is gone on the powder blue tang.(Glad about that) I'm 17 days into hypo. all fish look good. Will continue hypo for 2 more weeks then raise salinity slowley. I now have set up 3- 29 gal QT tanks and a 40B QT tank.
Nothing is going into my DT without Quarintine.

tangs2-5-13106_zps695c8cbb.jpg
 
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NH fish:
Fish look good from what i can see. i am glad there are no more spots on them. just continue for another 2 weeks in hypo then raise salinity 1 point per day till u get back to 1.025.
good luck and happy reefing.
Note: qt is never a bad idea.
 
Ok so I have a 20 gallon tank with two fish,coral, live rock, and a crushed coral substrate. I am upgrading this to a fifty gallon tank that has a sand bottom and i want to make the 20 a qt tank.I know I can't have a substrate in a qt tank so what do I do with it? It has lots of good bacteria and I don't want to just throw it out. Any suggeations?
 
i am not a big fan of crushed coral substrate but if you really dont want to throw it out then u can either use it in sump or lay it down in ur main tank first with new sand on top. eventually it wont stay down and may get mixed and re surface on top but by that time ur good bacteria will have transferred and u can siphon crushed coral out.

Note: u can also place the CCS in a media sock and place it in the main tank for seeding. then pull it out over time.
 
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