Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
knight2255
New member
I got an unexpectedly large powder blue tang(5-6") that is probably too small for my 20g tank. I've got a dollar store storage tub for xmas type ornaments that I'd like to upgrade the 20g to. I was planning on only filling it half way, I really only need it for the swim room footprint. I was also going to reinforce the sides with 2x4's, anybody tried or heard of anyone doing this?
tassod
New member
Ok, first off I want to say I'm guilty of not using my QT for my first fish so I'm going to have to live with the consequences. Having said that, I believe my blue tang might have ICK. I got him last Saturday and he seemed fine, and still does actually but i noticed last night for the first time a very tiny small white spot on him and its got me worried. The unusual behavior so far and this might be because he's new to the tank is that he will not eat with the rest of the fish ( i have 2 oscillaris clowns, 1 foxface, 2 chromis, 1 lawnmore blenny and one Diamond Watchman goby). The rest of the crew which act and look very healthy know when its feeding time and wait and attack the food when it comes in but the blue tang will go hide instead. If i throw manually food his way, he will come out and start eating it. He also pecks away at algae all day. Another funny thing is he wont touch any sea weed that I put on a clip for him.
In any case, i want to get my QT setup asap to put him in there. I've had my aquaclear biomax ceramic rings sitting in my DT sump now for the last 10 days or so. Can i mix some new saltwater and fill the QT tank and run my aquaclear filter with the filter media that has been sitting in my sump? Also, what would be the best method to treat the fish, hypo or copper?
i am sorry to hear that the blue hippo has broke out with ick. if u see white specks like salt on her then most likely its ick and needs to be addressed other wise it will wipe out the entire tank. unfortunately u will have to qt all fish in the tank hippo is in whether they show signs of ick or not its in the tank now and soon enough rest will get it too.
i would take out all fish from the infected tank and qt them and run hypo as u have wide veriety of fish and dome may not do well with copper.
if u were to setup a qt tank with dt water and the filter seeding in r dt u should have instant cycle. but dont assume it just check for ammonia everyday till ur sure. then slowly start dropping salinity till u reach 1.009 and hold is steady there. ATO will not be a bad investment for it.
once u reach 1.009 then u should see ich fall off soon. once all ich signs are gone including from gill (cant see) but u can tell by heavy breathing and shyness non eating etc. once fish are back to normal hypo 4 weeks from that point on then start increasing salinity. then observe for another 2 weeks.
if u have all the fish u mentioned in qt u may wanna get few extra ceramic rings or floss and place them in media socks and then into qt for more surface area for bacteria to handle the bio load.
good luck and keep me posted.
i would take out all fish from the infected tank and qt them and run hypo as u have wide veriety of fish and dome may not do well with copper.
if u were to setup a qt tank with dt water and the filter seeding in r dt u should have instant cycle. but dont assume it just check for ammonia everyday till ur sure. then slowly start dropping salinity till u reach 1.009 and hold is steady there. ATO will not be a bad investment for it.
once u reach 1.009 then u should see ich fall off soon. once all ich signs are gone including from gill (cant see) but u can tell by heavy breathing and shyness non eating etc. once fish are back to normal hypo 4 weeks from that point on then start increasing salinity. then observe for another 2 weeks.
if u have all the fish u mentioned in qt u may wanna get few extra ceramic rings or floss and place them in media socks and then into qt for more surface area for bacteria to handle the bio load.
good luck and keep me posted.
u can get away with all those fish (they are mostly small fish) in a 20 for a short term (2 month) qt.
google ich and pics for it and see if it matches to what ur hippo has. generally its going to look like someone took a shaker of salt and sprinkled it all over ur fish.
if thats the case, its ich and trust me tangs are known carriers. if u never qt and treated it then i am positive its ich.
i personally qt all fish, prazipro all fish for 2 weeks then observe 4 weeks but rules change for tangs. after prazipro its a must 3-4 week copper.
google ich and pics for it and see if it matches to what ur hippo has. generally its going to look like someone took a shaker of salt and sprinkled it all over ur fish.
if thats the case, its ich and trust me tangs are known carriers. if u never qt and treated it then i am positive its ich.
i personally qt all fish, prazipro all fish for 2 weeks then observe 4 weeks but rules change for tangs. after prazipro its a must 3-4 week copper.
I have a permanent QT set up that I havn't treated just yet.
I have a few questions on maintaining biological filtration.
Does bio wheel,ceramic media, carbonless filter cartridge absorb copper?
If yes does the water changes,carbon, and cuprisorb effectively remove residual copper from media where it is safe and maintain bio.
Thanks
I have a few questions on maintaining biological filtration.
Does bio wheel,ceramic media, carbonless filter cartridge absorb copper?
If yes does the water changes,carbon, and cuprisorb effectively remove residual copper from media where it is safe and maintain bio.
Thanks
cupramine is a very safe form of copper. i have always used it in my QT tank with bio wheels ceramic rings and after treatment used cuprasorb and carbon to remove it successfully. filters on other hand are different story.
i would just take the filters out after the treatment is over and u have moved the fish out of the qt.
Cupramine will effect bacteria but wont kill it in mass. maybe 10-20%. after using curasorb and running carbon and water changes u should be back to 0 copper levels.
tassod
New member
I dunno, i must be seeing things, i guess i'm overly worried being this is my first tang and knowing that they are ich magnets. Here are some pics of him...i think he's fine, this is how he's always been.
adamwheel
New member
Lyretail Anthia with white growth on eye.
Lyretail Anthia with white growth on eye.
The QT is up and running successfully. 29 gallon cycled and housing a few lyretail anthias. My largest female has developed a white growth on her eye. At this point, they've been in the QT for 8 days and have received one treatment of Prazi Pro. Here's a picture taken on my phone. Not the best quality but hopefully good enough.
Thoughts on what it is? What should I treat it with if anything?
I can try to get a better picture if necessary.
Thanks in advance,
Adam
Lyretail Anthia with white growth on eye.
The QT is up and running successfully. 29 gallon cycled and housing a few lyretail anthias. My largest female has developed a white growth on her eye. At this point, they've been in the QT for 8 days and have received one treatment of Prazi Pro. Here's a picture taken on my phone. Not the best quality but hopefully good enough.
Thoughts on what it is? What should I treat it with if anything?
I can try to get a better picture if necessary.
Thanks in advance,
Adam
adamwheel
New member
thanks
thanks
I have noticed that she is locking mouths with a female of similar size. It could be an injury as I noticed it this morning and would've seen it yesterday had it been there.
I'll do a good water change and start a second treatment of Prazi Pro.
Thanks Again,
Adam
thanks
I have noticed that she is locking mouths with a female of similar size. It could be an injury as I noticed it this morning and would've seen it yesterday had it been there.
I'll do a good water change and start a second treatment of Prazi Pro.
Thanks Again,
Adam
shiladitya1991
New member
Hi bnumair, I got a 20g tank today that i want to convert to a QT. It will be a temporary one , I will set it up with water from my DT, PVC pipes, hang on back filter+ Skimmer and Siporax. I am planning to leave the siporax in a meshbag inside the tank itself. During my DT's w/c i am planning to subsequently change a part of the water from the QT as well. In the meantime I don't plan to run the HOB all the time. Maybe once or twice a week when there is no fish.. Does everything sound OK? Any suggestions?
Hi
i am glad ur stepping in the right direction. so let me get this straight. u got a 20 for qt and u have pvc pipes for it to let the fish to hide in or behind. also u have ceramic media (siporax) in a meshbag in the qt.
u have a HOB filter and skimmer but u dont want to run that at all times?
meanwhile water in qt comes from DT and also u will be putting dt's water in qt during water changes...... so far am i right?
if i am right then ur qt may not be cycle when u need it. HOB needs to run at all time in order to creat flow and air water mixture along with bacteria to live.
also if this HOB filter and Siporax is brand new u need to cycle the qt or place the HOB filters and media in ur sump for few weeks to be seeded with bacteria then bring them to qt for instant cycle. but still check for ammonia as bacteria may not be enough to handle bio load.
please correct me in my assumptions if i was wrong somewhere. please feel free to ask any questions u may have.
Good Luck and Safe Reefing.
shiladitya1991
New member
Thanks for your feedback.
Yeah you got it right..
So the main points are :
1) Run HOB at all times.
2) Keep Siporax and HOB filter pad in the DT's sump for a week or two.
My question is will it go through a cycle again ? if so, why?
Yeah you got it right..
So the main points are :
1) Run HOB at all times.
2) Keep Siporax and HOB filter pad in the DT's sump for a week or two.
My question is will it go through a cycle again ? if so, why?
good now that we are on same page.....
1. yes run HOB 24/7 all the time as long as the qt tank is setup.
2. yes leave then in main tank (if its already cycled) for minimum 2 weeks NOT just 1.
after 2 weeks in established tank chances are u will import enough beneficial bacteria that it should be able to handle the a small bio load. if u start off with just 1 small fish it should be ok.
I recommend at that time still check for ammonia due to simple fact its not a guarantee by keeping filters and media in DT can import enough bacteria to handle ammonia being produced.
in case it doesnt be ready to do some water changes everyday till bacteria catches up.
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