hypo will kill ich not all parasites.i have a feeling maybe it had some other problems. jumping out of tank proves a very stressed fish.
Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
hypo will kill ich not all parasites.i have a feeling maybe it had some other problems. jumping out of tank proves a very stressed fish.
changing filters means u got rid of the bacteria thus causing a tank to go through mini cycle. that mini cycle can damage gills and cause internal organ damage.
this could be the cause of fish not doing good.
anyways at this time u can do 2x 50% water changes and run fresh carbon and leave the filters in. this is get u ready for next round.
well i am in process of re-doing my new setup and had dual QT setup. i put all the fish in QT and they have been eating well. Started hypo today. i went from 1.024 to 1.020 in 1 day. tomorrow i will drop a few more points on salinity. Hopefully in 3-4 days i will drop it down to 1.009 and hold it there for 2-3 weeks.
here are few pics just for fun.
here are few pics just for fun.
Yes about few days back. i had it in the QT since i got it. but i pulled all others from DT and placed them in QT as well for hypo on all fish while i redo and cycle the main tank.
My 2 QT tanks are connected to same sump so if Achilles has parasites then its safe to assume all fish have it now so i am going to hypo all fish.
My 2 QT tanks are connected to same sump so if Achilles has parasites then its safe to assume all fish have it now so i am going to hypo all fish.
i had not knowingly purchased man made rock 2 yrs back when i put together this setup. after many many tries and lab tests and wasting a lot of money and time i figured its time to take the rock out and replace it with BRS pukani rock. (was not able to keep corals, every coral dies within week)
so while i am cycling and waiting for DT to go back online i had to place all the fish in QT. and due to the fact that both my QT tanks are connected to 1 sump and having a new fish (Achilles) which is known to carry ich and hard to keep. i have to perform hypo. so the older fish gets hypo by default and not by choice.
i didnt run copper as some fish are sensitive.
Anyways i will keep this updated as you are right these fish are hard to keep.
hey bnumair so just an update my QT tank has now been running for just over 3 weeks, i haven't put anything in it or taken anything out other than Topping off with fresh RO/DI
Ammonia spiked and has finally come back down but nitrites are still very high, and haven't moved.. Should i just continue to be patient or should i do a water change to help reduce them?
Also my DT is just over 3 months old and other than battling low alk has been running great but does have some cyano that keep popping up in the sand, i do have a very good Pod population and was curious about a mandarin goby either going into the DT or into the QT and your thoughts on the dragonets
Ammonia spiked and has finally come back down but nitrites are still very high, and haven't moved.. Should i just continue to be patient or should i do a water change to help reduce them?
Also my DT is just over 3 months old and other than battling low alk has been running great but does have some cyano that keep popping up in the sand, i do have a very good Pod population and was curious about a mandarin goby either going into the DT or into the QT and your thoughts on the dragonets
SirSalty
New member
Mirror mess?
Mirror mess?
I've been setting up a permanent QT using a 29g bowfront that I had in storage. The tank is bare-bottom with a hob filter, hob skimmer, heater, etc - fairly average for a QT.
The one detail I didn't think about while setting it up - It's a mirror-backed tank! Am I asking for trouble having fish in QT see themselves in mirror all day? I'm afraid it might cause extreme stress.
I was considering hiding the back with a plastic sheet rather than starting over with a different tank. Any thoughts?
Thanks, any input much appreciated!
Mirror mess?
I've been setting up a permanent QT using a 29g bowfront that I had in storage. The tank is bare-bottom with a hob filter, hob skimmer, heater, etc - fairly average for a QT.
The one detail I didn't think about while setting it up - It's a mirror-backed tank! Am I asking for trouble having fish in QT see themselves in mirror all day? I'm afraid it might cause extreme stress.
I was considering hiding the back with a plastic sheet rather than starting over with a different tank. Any thoughts?
Thanks, any input much appreciated!
QT will take some time to cycle. Also ammonia usually goes down faster. Nitrites end up taking twice as long. Just be patient and let it go through its cycle. I generally dont do water changes during cycle.
Alk is always on the low end of the bargain as being in the lowest unit quantity in seawater. In some reef tanks it can be consumed upto 3 dkh per day. U will need some type of dosing or cal reactor etc to keep it up.
Mandarin/blenny/dragonets will consume up several hundred pods per day. Unless u have a fuge and extremely large colonies of pods I wouldn't try it. 3 month old tank is a bit too young for such. Maybe about 1 yr down or unless u can afford to buy 1000 pods or so every 2-3 weeks.
I do see them going after reflection for 1 to 2 days but after that I don't see a problem. I have a mirror tint on my 300 gal system and except for Achilles tang no one noticed the reflection. She went at it for few days then never cared. Infact it helps them take their aggression out on reflection rather than other tank mates.
Thanks for the advice.
As far as the pods, i do have a Fuge and i'm not sure how large my colony is but it's pretty large from what i can tell, I can see them all over the glass, all over the overflow, all over the rocks including my base rock, and i can see quite a few in my fuge. As far as how many who knows but i'd say just by glancing i would say i have over 1000 already that i can actually see.
I would still add 500 to 1000 pods in ur fuge before trying out a fish that will consume them in few weeks. Also is u see a huge difference in pod population after adding a mandarin then make sure to keep adding pods to ur fuge.
I have heard that ORA has mandarin they breed and train to eat regular food along with pods. So they can be easier to keep.
Either way good luck and safe reefing.
I have heard that ORA has mandarin they breed and train to eat regular food along with pods. So they can be easier to keep.
Either way good luck and safe reefing.
ORA is one of the big farmers of corals and fish.
here is their link
http://www.orafarm.com/products/fish/dragonets/blue-mandarin/
I have never QT'ed mandarin as they have a very thick heavy slime coat and they are not known to catch ich. usually a fresh water dip and in to the main tank.
here is their link
http://www.orafarm.com/products/fish/dragonets/blue-mandarin/
I have never QT'ed mandarin as they have a very thick heavy slime coat and they are not known to catch ich. usually a fresh water dip and in to the main tank.
