Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

Cycle

Cycle

This is an awesome thread! Because of it, I went out and purchased a QT. My DT is almost done cycling so the timing of finding the thread was perfect. My QT has been cycling for nearly two weeks. I am going to run it 24-7, so I started cycle with dead shrimp. The ammonia spiked within three days (10 gallon tank) and has stayed up. I removed the shrimp. My ammonia is at .05 and nitrite is at .25. Should I do wc, or just keep it as is and wait for everything to settle down?

I am running a heater, bubble stone, HOB filter, lights off. Some diatom on the glass, but very little.
 
This is an awesome thread! Because of it, I went out and purchased a QT. My DT is almost done cycling so the timing of finding the thread was perfect. My QT has been cycling for nearly two weeks. I am going to run it 24-7, so I started cycle with dead shrimp. The ammonia spiked within three days (10 gallon tank) and has stayed up. I removed the shrimp. My ammonia is at .05 and nitrite is at .25. Should I do wc, or just keep it as is and wait for everything to settle down?

I am running a heater, bubble stone, HOB filter, lights off. Some diatom on the glass, but very little.

cool awesome. your almost there. i would do water change when ammonia and nitrites hit 0. diatoms and algae is not a big issue in a QT. as long as u stay on top for water changes and keep light hours minimum (as fish dont need light) you wont see much algae.
 
Thank you for putting all this great info together. I have been scouring the internet and books for about a week or two reading about QT and prophylactic treating of fish. I like your approach the best so far.

I purchased a used (pretty scratched up ) 75 gallon acrylic tank with an in tank trickle filter for use as a QT. I cleaned it all with vinegar and bleach. I put the bio balls into the overflow of one of my tanks a week ago to seed them.

My plan is to buy 2 harems of anthias. 5 Bartletts and 5 lyretail for my 240 gallon mixed reef.
I have a few questions.
1) Are there any special considerations for quarantine of anthias?
2) should I separate the Bartletts from the Lyretail with egg create?
3) Do you think 2 or 3 weeks is long enough to seed the bioballs?
Thanks again,
-Paul
 
Thank you for putting all this great info together. I have been scouring the internet and books for about a week or two reading about QT and prophylactic treating of fish. I like your approach the best so far.

I purchased a used (pretty scratched up ) 75 gallon acrylic tank with an in tank trickle filter for use as a QT. I cleaned it all with vinegar and bleach. I put the bio balls into the overflow of one of my tanks a week ago to seed them.

My plan is to buy 2 harems of anthias. 5 Bartletts and 5 lyretail for my 240 gallon mixed reef.
I have a few questions.
1) Are there any special considerations for quarantine of anthias?
2) should I separate the Bartletts from the Lyretail with egg create?
3) Do you think 2 or 3 weeks is long enough to seed the bioballs?
Thanks again,
-Paul


Hi Paul and thank you for ur kind words.
QT is the way to go and i see u are already on the right start.
bio balls from an established tank will definitely help seed the QT, how long to keep them in there is totally dependent on what medications u will be using.
to answer ur questions:

1. i would use prazipro or formalin to begin with then observe them over 4-6 weeks. if u dont see any signs of ich then u can transfer them, if u like to use cupramine (just because to be sure) u can do so for 2 weeks but dose copper very very slowly over several days.
i personally have 14 ignitus anthias and i only used prazi for 2 weeks and then 4 weeks of observation. no copper.

2. i would separate them as they are semi aggressive fish, territorial and skittish. (also keep top covered for jumpers, even though they are not jumpers but being active swimming school they usually swim and hang out in middle to top part of the tank and if scared they can react fast.)

3. unless u decide to use copper i would leave them there to keep bacteria intact.
keep up with water changes as nitrates may become an issue with bio balls. but nitrates are generally not harmfull for fish till they reach 90+ppm.

An advice: Anthias schools have 1 dominant male and rest females. once male dies a dominant female changes to a male. if there are more than 1 male in school a dominant male will be the only one left sooner or later.
Lyretail is not a problem as they can be bought in specific genders (male or female) but bartletts generally are not sold by genders. so watch for that. out of 20 ignitus i ended up with 8 left as rest males got killed. then i added 8 more and 6 left 2 killed. so with lots of money and patience now i have a school of 1 male and 13 fem.
 
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Great information, thanks again. I was planning on using PraziPro only unless I see signs of ich (as you have instructed).
Should I wait until the anthias are all eating well before I start the Prazi?
I have never keep anthius before, I was planning on those two species because they are reported to be heartier than some and I liked the colors. My book doesn't have ignitus in it, is there a reason you picked that species?
I just looked at your blog. Amazing setup you got there!
-Paul
 
u can use prazi any time u like. some use it as a dip or some as med dosed in QT.
anthias are great looking fish. they are very active swimmers and require small amounts of food several times a day.
I picked ignitus due to simple fact of hardiness and color. try searching ignitus anthias on liveaquaria.com
 
So the gf was wondering if I could put one of those decorative things in my QT. She doesn't quite care for it being so ... empty. I could not think of any reason not to as long as we toss it should there be an outbreak of something or other. Is there a reason that would be a bad idea?
 
So the gf was wondering if I could put one of those decorative things in my QT. She doesn't quite care for it being so ... empty. I could not think of any reason not to as long as we toss it should there be an outbreak of something or other. Is there a reason that would be a bad idea?

most decorative items are usually made for freshwater and they can leech/deteriorate over time causing more issues than its worth specially in a small system as QT.
if you can find something that is made for saltwater then sure go ahead. But remember u can never take it out and use it in any other system if medications are involved specially copper based meds.
 
Hello Bnumair,

Of all the 100's, if not 1000's, of threads I've read here I still can't figure out how I missed this one for so long.

Here's my understanding and plan moving forward. Please comment.

1. I have a 20gal QT that I setup yesterday. Tank has small pump for flow, airstone, heater, and is covered with egg crate. No mechanical filtration as I'll be adding some sponge media to the tank once I place my first fish. Or, do I go ahead and place in QT ahead of time? I assume I can never place this media back in DT since I'll be using Prazipro? I know I can't place in DT if I end up treating with copper.
2. Fish will be acclimated per procedures posted all over this forum. Let bag volume double, dump 1/2, let it double again then fish is ready for release into QT. QT salinity will be set to match LFS, raised as needed over next 6 weeks to match DT.
3. I'll be dipping/rinsing the fish with fresh SW prior to placing in QT. Should I use a medicated dip/rinse? If so, what?
4. I see where you Prazipro treat all your fish. I assume I don't start this treatment until after the first 24hrs? I've also read not to feed them for 24hrs either as the fish should be concentrating on 'relaxing' in the QT. Two pieces of 2" pvc will be placed in QT so they have somewhere to hide.
5. Run Prazipro treatment for 2 weeks then start removal via water changes. Add some carbon at this time to also remove it?
6. Leave fish in QT for an additional 4 weeks and observe. Hopefully all is well and specimen can be released in DT after 6 weeks total.
7. I'll have new saltwater mixed and ready to go at all times. Is there a specific schedule to water changes or only as Ammonia, Nitrites, etc dictate? I'm planning on 5gal water changes. Is that too large or does it matter?

I think that's everything. I'm planning on picking up first two fish ( clowns ) on Thursday. Anything I'm overlooking?

Thanks in advance,
 
Hello Bnumair,

Of all the 100's, if not 1000's, of threads I've read here I still can't figure out how I missed this one for so long.

Here's my understanding and plan moving forward. Please comment.

1. I have a 20gal QT that I setup yesterday. Tank has small pump for flow, airstone, heater, and is covered with egg crate. No mechanical filtration as I'll be adding some sponge media to the tank once I place my first fish. Or, do I go ahead and place in QT ahead of time? I assume I can never place this media back in DT since I'll be using Prazipro? I know I can't place in DT if I end up treating with copper.
you should add the established sponge from DT in the QT right away so it gives enough time for bacteria to establish on and into the new QT. This sponge can be take back to DT after using Prazipro but NEVER after copper treatment. (i personally never take back anything from QT as precaution)
2. Fish will be acclimated per procedures posted all over this forum. Let bag volume double, dump 1/2, let it double again then fish is ready for release into QT. QT salinity will be set to match LFS, raised as needed over next 6 weeks to match DT.
that a good approach. i wouldnt change anything at this step.
3. I'll be dipping/rinsing the fish with fresh SW prior to placing in QT. Should I use a medicated dip/rinse? If so, what?
i wouldnt do a saltwater dip. if u really wanna dip then do a fresh water dip with temp at same at QT and ph also same as QT. or u can do a prazipro dip in some QT's water. I personally will just acclimate and place fish in QT as prazi will take care of most of the parasite problem over next 2 weeks and why subject the fish to several levels of stress.
4. I see where you Prazipro treat all your fish. I assume I don't start this treatment until after the first 24hrs? I've also read not to feed them for 24hrs either as the fish should be concentrating on 'relaxing' in the QT. Two pieces of 2" pvc will be placed in QT so they have somewhere to hide.
That is true. let the fish properly acclimate to the new home (QT) give it 24-48 hrs to adjust and then start feeding and prazipro treatment.
5. Run Prazipro treatment for 2 weeks then start removal via water changes. Add some carbon at this time to also remove it?
correct. 2 weeks of prazipro then water changes and run carbon.
6. Leave fish in QT for an additional 4 weeks and observe. Hopefully all is well and specimen can be released in DT after 6 weeks total.
correct. if after 6 weeks of QT no ich or any other disease is observed then release fish in DT.
7. I'll have new saltwater mixed and ready to go at all times. Is there a specific schedule to water changes or only as Ammonia, Nitrites, etc dictate? I'm planning on 5gal water changes. Is that too large or does it matter?
always keep 2-3 times the volume of ur QT for emergency water changes. i keep 55gal saltwater ready at all time. In an established QT i try not to do any water changes while in treatment but incase there is ammonia and nitrite creeping up then u need to do so and dose accordingly.
I think that's everything. I'm planning on picking up first two fish ( clowns ) on Thursday. Anything I'm overlooking?

Thanks in advance,

i think you have everything under control and thanks for reading and being very clear and having a plan before hand. this is the best thing u can do for urself and ur fish, Plan and read,
Good luck and happy reefing.
 
Excellent. Many thanks for the guidance, confirmations, and prompt response.

No problem, feel free to ask anytime. i lurk the threads all the time and try to get answers as quick as possible.
 
This question has been brought up and has been emailed to me a few time.
Is skimmer required in QT system?

to answer for a fish only QT: NO
for QT'ing corals: YES
 
Great thread! great information and kudos to you for answering all the posts, that is impressive! I have two questions"

1. You talk about a tank transfer as a form of getting rid of Ich, how is this going to help? I must be missing something, if you put the fish in a new tank isn't there a chance there will still be Ich on the fish? I believe there is a life cycle for Ich so some days it shows up on fish and others it doesn't.

2. As to the above post, when are you doing a quarantine thread for corals, i would definately tag along for that thread too! :)

Thanks again for this!
 
Great thread! great information and kudos to you for answering all the posts, that is impressive! I have two questions"

1. You talk about a tank transfer as a form of getting rid of Ich, how is this going to help? I must be missing something, if you put the fish in a new tank isn't there a chance there will still be Ich on the fish? I believe there is a life cycle for Ich so some days it shows up on fish and others it doesn't.

2. As to the above post, when are you doing a quarantine thread for corals, i would definately tag along for that thread too! :)

Thanks again for this!

Well thanks for ur kind words. Also sorry for a bit late response but i see you already got to the transfer method and figured it out.
in short parasite drops off the body and stays behind in the last tank and thus reducing quantity of parasites as u transfer tanks.
Qt for corals is also an interesting subject and i get asked a lot on this topic. I will write something up on it this weekend and post on my blog as sticky's are quite full on this forum but i will post a link here for everyone to know.
Thanks for bringing it up and will definitely a good topic.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask and good luck.
happy reefing
 
Hey bnumair my DT tank fishes has ich and want go get rid if it. Can you show mg how the hypo method work? Thanks in advance.
 
Hey bnumair my DT tank fishes has ich and want go get rid if it. Can you show mg how the hypo method work? Thanks in advance.

Jimmy i am sorry to hear this.... hypo or any ich treatment is well performed in QT. if you dont have one please setup one using methods mentioned in this forum. Hypo is basically a process where salinity is dropped to a certain level which does not promote ich parasite (in short)
here is a beautiful link on hypo written by Sk8r. She is a knowledge power house and i highly recommend you going through this link. it will help you a lot and Good Luck.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1991470
 
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