Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

So do you purchase filter floss in bulk and then cut to fit or buy the refill cartridges and take out the carbon?
 
i always purchased cartridge and took carbon out but u can get floss and cut to size, probably cheaper that route.
 
A couple huge questions for you. I run a 20 gallon long permanent QT for my systems. It has the following: Heater, Aquaclear 70 with Live rock rubble originally from my DT's sump, Filter floss from DT, and a Fluval U2 Underwater filter with Bio-Max and floss. No light. It has two peices of live rock originally from my DT. Tank is bare bottom.

When I add the new fish to my QT, I replace the floss with my current floss from my DT and throw out the old stuff. I also empty 50% of the water in the QT, and fill it back up with my DT water. (then do a regular water change on the DT). All has been good up until I had to medicate for Ich. Now I am confused.

1. I recently had a Powder Blue that I didn't quarantine get ich, I luckily got him out at the first signs, and saved the rest of the fish. But I did my first Cupramine dosage in the QT tank. Now that the tank has had Cupramine, do I have to do anything in particular? Can I still put new fish in the QT to do observation before added to my DT?

2. I know that now that I have added cupramine, I shouldn't ever add the rock, heater, filters or water to my DT, but I did happen to do a water change on my QT with the same hose I usually use for my DT water changes last night. Should I get a new hose for water changes on the DT now?

3. When taking the fish out of QT after medicating, are there any steps that I need to take before putting him back in to the DT? Or just the regular water changes until copper is low after medicating?

4. Should I have a light on it? The room does get light and dark with the window in the room.
 
A couple huge questions for you. I run a 20 gallon long permanent QT for my systems. It has the following: Heater, Aquaclear 70 with Live rock rubble originally from my DT's sump, Filter floss from DT, and a Fluval U2 Underwater filter with Bio-Max and floss. No light. It has two peices of live rock originally from my DT. Tank is bare bottom.

When I add the new fish to my QT, I replace the floss with my current floss from my DT and throw out the old stuff. I also empty 50% of the water in the QT, and fill it back up with my DT water. (then do a regular water change on the DT). All has been good up until I had to medicate for Ich. Now I am confused.

1. I recently had a Powder Blue that I didn't quarantine get ich, I luckily got him out at the first signs, and saved the rest of the fish. But I did my first Cupramine dosage in the QT tank. Now that the tank has had Cupramine, do I have to do anything in particular? Can I still put new fish in the QT to do observation before added to my DT?Just my opinion, but I would break down the tank and bleach everything.

2. I know that now that I have added cupramine, I shouldn't ever add the rock, heater, filters or water to my DT, but I did happen to do a water change on my QT with the same hose I usually use for my DT water changes last night. Should I get a new hose for water changes on the DT now?I have separate supplies for my QT and DT. You do not want to put a net, hose or other from your QT into your DT.

3. When taking the fish out of QT after medicating, are there any steps that I need to take before putting him back in to the DT? Or just the regular water changes until copper is low after medicating?

4. Should I have a light on it? The room does get light and dark with the window in the room.I run mine without any lights. You could have one and turn it on to observe your fish, but I don't.
 


So I should realistically have a hospital tank, and a QT tank? I would hate to have to break down everything and bleach it after I medicate for issues.
 
That is just my opinion. I would not want to introduce a new healthy fish into a tank that was medicated for a sick fish. In your case, I would have a standby hospital tank just in case.
 
1. I recently had a Powder Blue that I didn't quarantine get ich, I luckily got him out at the first signs, and saved the rest of the fish. But I did my first Cupramine dosage in the QT tank. Now that the tank has had Cupramine, do I have to do anything in particular? Can I still put new fish in the QT to do observation before added to my DT?
First off if u noticed ich on your PBlue in your main tank then it might already be too late for the rest of the fish as well. (just my opinion) watch them closely.
Also after medicating your QT with copper you dont really have to break it down to make it an observation tank. I always do water changes in QT after weeks of treatment to bring the copper down to as close to 0 as possible then i use cuprisorb till all the copper is gone turning the QT to hospital tank.


2. I know that now that I have added cupramine, I shouldn't ever add the rock, heater, filters or water to my DT, but I did happen to do a water change on my QT with the same hose I usually use for my DT water changes last night. Should I get a new hose for water changes on the DT now?
i would avoid using anything that u use in main tank just to be on the safe side.

3. When taking the fish out of QT after medicating, are there any steps that I need to take before putting him back in to the DT? Or just the regular water changes until copper is low after medicating?
medication time: (6 weeks in my case)(first 2 weeks at low strength, then 2-3 weeks full strength and last 2 with water changes back to 0)
to ur question yes i do have a few steps i take to ready transfer. after weeks of treatment i start doing water changes till my seachem copper test kits dont show copper anymore. then i use cuprisorb to make sure for few weeks.Then the final day of transfer i give fish a bath in a bucket with water from main tank and net it out after 10-15min to main.


4. Should I have a light on it? The room does get light and dark with the window in the room.
lights are not a must but are good to observe. i do have a cheap t5 fixture with just 2 50/50 bulbs.
 
Thats excellent thank you!

I'm glad I don't have to make two different tanks at the moment.

Luckily with the display tank it has been 4 weeks without any sign of ich on the other fish, but I will continue to watch them. The PB only had one little spec on his fin when I took him out, so I'm hoping the rest will be ok.
 
Thats excellent thank you!

I'm glad I don't have to make two different tanks at the moment.

Luckily with the display tank it has been 4 weeks without any sign of ich on the other fish, but I will continue to watch them. The PB only had one little spec on his fin when I took him out, so I'm hoping the rest will be ok.

i am glad to hear that ur main is ok so far and hopefully soon ur PB will recover too. good luck and happy reefing.
 
I'm in the process of QT'ing a pair of clowns for my DT. The QT is fully cycled. I'm doing Prazi Pro and Cupramine and then after their time they'll go in my DT. My question is: What do I need to do to prep my QT for the next fish? I'm planning a firefish goby next.

Can I just run some carbon to remove the copper and do a 50% water change before adding the next fish? How long do I need to run the carbon to remove the copper?
 
first off i would not mix both meds. do separate weeks. then when the cupramine weeks are over start doing water changes so u bring levels down slowly. after few water changes mostly all the copper will be gone. then u can run carbon, i always ran cuprisorb till all traces of copper are gone.
 
Frozen Shrimp or Live Shrimp?

Frozen Shrimp or Live Shrimp?

Question about the frozen shrimp to kick start the cycle. Can I buy a live shrimp from the Asian markets? Is there something about the frozen shrimp that makes it better? Also, should I remove the shrimp after sometime? Or just leave it in the tank? Thanks in advance!
 
Question about the frozen shrimp to kick start the cycle. Can I buy a live shrimp from the Asian markets? Is there something about the frozen shrimp that makes it better? Also, should I remove the shrimp after sometime? Or just leave it in the tank? Thanks in advance!

very good question..
but answer is the same as always. fish or shrimp either or will probably not survive a cycle. or at worse if they do survive it will be very miserable. cycle will expose them to high levels of toxic's that will damage their internal organs if not kill them. its just cruel.
This is why here on RC we focus on fish-less cycles.
Now with no live animal in question, buy a tray of cocktail shrimp and some cocktail sauce. eat all the shrimp dipping in sauce they are tasty. ummmm.....
and the last one throw it in the QT for 3-4 days. (even less as u test for ammonia everyday) once ammonia hit about 1 or more take it out.
Why is a frozen shrimp better? its because
1. its not alive and not subject to poisoning in toxic water and
2 its dead already and will start decaying soon in water releasing ammonia much needed to kick start a cycle.
 
very good question..
but answer is the same as always. fish or shrimp either or will probably not survive a cycle. or at worse if they do survive it will be very miserable. cycle will expose them to high levels of toxic's that will damage their internal organs if not kill them. its just cruel.
This is why here on RC we focus on fish-less cycles.
Now with no live animal in question, buy a tray of cocktail shrimp and some cocktail sauce. eat all the shrimp dipping in sauce they are tasty. ummmm.....
and the last one throw it in the QT for 3-4 days. (even less as u test for ammonia everyday) once ammonia hit about 1 or more take it out.
Why is a frozen shrimp better? its because
1. its not alive and not subject to poisoning in toxic water and
2 its dead already and will start decaying soon in water releasing ammonia much needed to kick start a cycle.

Awww~ I see! Thx for the quick response! I do plan on utilizing the fish-less cycle for my DT. Just for some reason, did not equate the shrimp for sell in the market at the same level as a damsel. If that makes sense... LOL

I'm probably over thinking on this, but is there a difference between cooked and raw shrimp when kick starting the cycle? Also, I would have to "ghost feed" the permanent QT to keep the bacteria alive when there isn't any fish in it, right?
 
I'm probably over thinking on this, but is there a difference between cooked and raw shrimp when kick starting the cycle? Also, I would have to "ghost feed" the permanent QT to keep the bacteria alive when there isn't any fish in it, right?

no there is no difference in raw or cooked shrimp, point is to introduce any meat that will decay and cause ammonia. i have even started tanks with a piece of frozen fish..
once a tank is cycled and you do not introduce a fish in it then yes ghost feed every 3rd day or so to keep food decaying and producing ammonia to keep bacteria fed.

Note: i keep a PJ cardinal in m y QT tank all the time instead of ghost feeding.
 
no there is no difference in raw or cooked shrimp, point is to introduce any meat that will decay and cause ammonia. i have even started tanks with a piece of frozen fish..
once a tank is cycled and you do not introduce a fish in it then yes ghost feed every 3rd day or so to keep food decaying and producing ammonia to keep bacteria fed.

Note: i keep a PJ cardinal in m y QT tank all the time instead of ghost feeding.

Got it! Thx for sharing the tip about you keeping a PJ cardinal in your QT. Think I'm going to adopt the idea. The tank I got for my QT is 20 gallon. My list of fishes are newbie friendly and think the most aggressive ones will be the pair of black/white clowns and yellow tang I want to add towards end. Do you see any issues if I put the two clown fishes into a 20G QT w/ the cardinal in it? I would be getting small/young clown fishes. Will having three fishes (the 2 clowns and cardinal) in a 20G QT for 4 weeks stress them out too much? Believe the clowns won't get territorial until they get older? And I'm assuming the 20G QT tank will be enough to house three fishes as long as I keep the water parameter in check by performing more water changes, am I right?

Once again, thanks for all your expert advice!
 
Got it! Thx for sharing the tip about you keeping a PJ cardinal in your QT. Think I'm going to adopt the idea. The tank I got for my QT is 20 gallon. My list of fishes are newbie friendly and think the most aggressive ones will be the pair of black/white clowns and yellow tang I want to add towards end. Do you see any issues if I put the two clown fishes into a 20G QT w/ the cardinal in it? I would be getting small/young clown fishes. Will having three fishes (the 2 clowns and cardinal) in a 20G QT for 4 weeks stress them out too much? Believe the clowns won't get territorial until they get older? And I'm assuming the 20G QT tank will be enough to house three fishes as long as I keep the water parameter in check by performing more water changes, am I right?

Once again, thanks for all your expert advice!

my cardinal been there from day 1. been through medications, copper treatment and bad days. it also been with lots of tank mates or all kinds and aggression levels. i have never had any issue with a cardinal and some other fish. PJ cardinal is probably the least aggressive fish i have kept in QT. it dont bother no one and no one bothers her.
2 clowns and a pj will be just fine in a 20gal (same as my QT)
keep up with water parameters.

Note: another tip is to buy an egg crate sheet from homedepot or lowes and place it long ways dividing the tank in equal long ways half of 10gal each or u can also go fron back to front.
going long ways give more swimming space than front to back.
 
my cardinal been there from day 1. been through medications, copper treatment and bad days. it also been with lots of tank mates or all kinds and aggression levels. i have never had any issue with a cardinal and some other fish. PJ cardinal is probably the least aggressive fish i have kept in QT. it dont bother no one and no one bothers her.
2 clowns and a pj will be just fine in a 20gal (same as my QT)
keep up with water parameters.

Note: another tip is to buy an egg crate sheet from homedepot or lowes and place it long ways dividing the tank in equal long ways half of 10gal each or u can also go fron back to front.
going long ways give more swimming space than front to back.

Cool! I actually have an egg crate sheet already as I plan to separate the pump, heater, air stone, and any other goodies from the fish. Will separate the fishes if they seem to be fighting.

How do you secure the egg crate sheet in the tank? Just fit it snugly against the glass?
 
Cool! I actually have an egg crate sheet already as I plan to separate the pump, heater, air stone, and any other goodies from the fish. Will separate the fishes if they seem to be fighting.

How do you secure the egg crate sheet in the tank? Just fit it snugly against the glass?

yup or cut your egg crate in a way that it looks like a T-shirt. then its easy to remove and place.
here is a rough sketch.
eggcrate.png
 
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