Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
Cozwey
Go Canada!!!!
As I was reading thru this thread I came across this post.
My LFS actually has true QT systems in their facility. They go to great length and cost to themselves to QT fish upon arrival.
HOWEVER...... They only QT for 2-3 weeks!
This is not enough as I have found out the hard way.
Cozwey
Go Canada!!!!
Hey Bnumair. We lost two more today. I have a couple questions for you.
Our QT is 55 gallon 48" long. We purchased this so that we have a longer space for the swimmers. Given that our Yellow Tang just passed we now "could" swap to our 20 Gallon.
In doing so we would reduce the costs a bit. We could then CLEAN and cycle the 55 into a perm QT. That would take as discussed upwards of 6 weeks. Then we can begin to rebuild our live stock.
Does this sound reasonable?
Once we get the QT cycled what is your recommendation regarding adding new fish to the QT? Can you add multiple fish? I realize this would increase the risk of transferring possible pathogens to anything brought into the QT.
If I am going to us 1 fish protocol its going to take a long time to rebuild. That is ok as we now have learned to be patient the hard way.
Our QT is 55 gallon 48" long. We purchased this so that we have a longer space for the swimmers. Given that our Yellow Tang just passed we now "could" swap to our 20 Gallon.
In doing so we would reduce the costs a bit. We could then CLEAN and cycle the 55 into a perm QT. That would take as discussed upwards of 6 weeks. Then we can begin to rebuild our live stock.
Does this sound reasonable?
Once we get the QT cycled what is your recommendation regarding adding new fish to the QT? Can you add multiple fish? I realize this would increase the risk of transferring possible pathogens to anything brought into the QT.
If I am going to us 1 fish protocol its going to take a long time to rebuild. That is ok as we now have learned to be patient the hard way.
Hi Cozwey,
once again sorry for the loss, no harm in switching to a smaller qt tank, just move all the stuff over or start over and make sure it cycles.
Once cycled you can place 1-2 small to medium fish in it and few 92-3) days later place few more and so on. This gives bacteria enough time to catch up. Bacteria doubles its size in 15 hrs given there is ammonia present.
Remember your QT clock starts the day last fish enters the qt.
once again sorry for the loss, no harm in switching to a smaller qt tank, just move all the stuff over or start over and make sure it cycles.
Once cycled you can place 1-2 small to medium fish in it and few 92-3) days later place few more and so on. This gives bacteria enough time to catch up. Bacteria doubles its size in 15 hrs given there is ammonia present.
Remember your QT clock starts the day last fish enters the qt.
SS_Sean
New member
I've been doing some reading here and I'm stumped on the ceramic rings in the HOB? I'm sure this has been discussed 20 times, buried here somewhere, but what the heck is this and how do I do it? I have a 10 gallon QT set up, with five small fish beginning QT tomorrow. I have a HOB filter, and will begin the slow drop in spec grav to 1.009 tomorrow.
I used a couple of bags of these when I used a Aquaclear 20.
http://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-A1...8&qid=1392211946&sr=8-4&keywords=aquaclear+20
then I also put some fluval ceramic rings in a media sock and hung them under the return flow from the hob just to have more media for bacteria
http://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-A1...8&qid=1392211946&sr=8-4&keywords=aquaclear+20
then I also put some fluval ceramic rings in a media sock and hung them under the return flow from the hob just to have more media for bacteria
mkoop
New member
Hello, I have a few questions about QT process, my current QT info (cycle completed several months ago):
40G Breeder, Aqueon 70
0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0-5 nitrates
74f, 1.025
Bare bottom, no lights, a few pieces of pvc, eggcrate cover
-3 back up filters sitting in the sump of my DT
I have established a QT tank and am looking to set up a process, the tank salinity matches my DT, temperature is ~4f lower (I figure this is okay and over the last week of QT I will gradually match my display? Is this okay or should I just keep it matching the display always? Not sure if it will likely only save me pennies a month anyways).
I also purchased a separate net and turkey baster.
Now I have added 4 anthias to my QT yesterday, I attempted to feed them a small amount this morning in which they did not eat as they are still calming down a bit. There is also detritus on the bare glass. Should I simply use a turkey baster to remove this daily (which is what I did this morning) or do you just vacuum it out during the weekly water change? I've been monitoring ammonia levels closely and have seen no spike at all but just a bit curious what others conduct as common practice.
I feed my display flake, pe mysis and have some garlic brine as well. Any pro/cons to feeding one over the other in QT or just deal with picky eaters as needed?
Is it a good practice to just run prazipro as a precautionary measure? I also have copper and copper test if I should need them, I assume you don't run copper unless you need to but I have assumed before so I will ask the silly question... do you run copper in QT at all times or only as needed?
More silly questions... in my DT the heaters are in the sump... in the QT it is inside the QT itself as there is not sump... is this correct? The fish are intelligent enough to not burn them selves I hope? hah...
Lastly, is it good practice to use the same salt type in my QT as my DT or can I opt for something less than premium?
Just looking for any best practices as I am new tanks in general and more so the QT process.
40G Breeder, Aqueon 70
0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0-5 nitrates
74f, 1.025
Bare bottom, no lights, a few pieces of pvc, eggcrate cover
-3 back up filters sitting in the sump of my DT
I have established a QT tank and am looking to set up a process, the tank salinity matches my DT, temperature is ~4f lower (I figure this is okay and over the last week of QT I will gradually match my display? Is this okay or should I just keep it matching the display always? Not sure if it will likely only save me pennies a month anyways).
I also purchased a separate net and turkey baster.
Now I have added 4 anthias to my QT yesterday, I attempted to feed them a small amount this morning in which they did not eat as they are still calming down a bit. There is also detritus on the bare glass. Should I simply use a turkey baster to remove this daily (which is what I did this morning) or do you just vacuum it out during the weekly water change? I've been monitoring ammonia levels closely and have seen no spike at all but just a bit curious what others conduct as common practice.
I feed my display flake, pe mysis and have some garlic brine as well. Any pro/cons to feeding one over the other in QT or just deal with picky eaters as needed?
Is it a good practice to just run prazipro as a precautionary measure? I also have copper and copper test if I should need them, I assume you don't run copper unless you need to but I have assumed before so I will ask the silly question... do you run copper in QT at all times or only as needed?
More silly questions... in my DT the heaters are in the sump... in the QT it is inside the QT itself as there is not sump... is this correct? The fish are intelligent enough to not burn them selves I hope? hah...
Lastly, is it good practice to use the same salt type in my QT as my DT or can I opt for something less than premium?
Just looking for any best practices as I am new tanks in general and more so the QT process.
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I have a couple small pieces of rock i just took out of my fuge would that good to add to QT to help it get going.
salajander
New member
Hey there. I'm setting up a new 55g (5 days into a cycle, so a while to go...) and am thinking about what I need to get a QT prepped.
I got a good deal from a LFS for a 10g combo kit. It's from Deep Blue Professional, and came with a standard 10g tank, a little "Biomaxx" HOB filter (also from Deep Blue), a heater, a cover, and a small light fixture.
The HOB has a little carbon filter (I think it's this one) and a foam block (looks like this one).
It seems from reading this thread that this is probably not enough filtration, and I should add some ceramic rings somewhere. Should I try to add them in the HOB itself? There's 3/4 in or so of open space between the carbon and back of the HOB. Or in the tank, near where the water's coming back?
I got a good deal from a LFS for a 10g combo kit. It's from Deep Blue Professional, and came with a standard 10g tank, a little "Biomaxx" HOB filter (also from Deep Blue), a heater, a cover, and a small light fixture.
The HOB has a little carbon filter (I think it's this one) and a foam block (looks like this one).
It seems from reading this thread that this is probably not enough filtration, and I should add some ceramic rings somewhere. Should I try to add them in the HOB itself? There's 3/4 in or so of open space between the carbon and back of the HOB. Or in the tank, near where the water's coming back?
salajander
New member
And another quick QT question - what's everyone's thoughts on introducing the first fish directly into a new DT? (And then using the QT for everything else after that)
If that first fish had ich or some other disease it would be in your display tank and you could not introduce any new fish for 12 weeks or so.
