Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

I am setting up a QT today in preparation for a new addition and I have a few questions regarding the cycle. In the past, I have always added a piece of shrimp to get an ammonia spike and just waited for the nitrogen cycle to complete. I am wondering if it is possible to add all newly mixed saltwater (15 gallon tank) and some fully cured live rock from my DT to have a biological filter in place right off the bat and forgo the normal cycle or at least cut the time by adding the rock. I can add any amount within reason, my DT and sump are quite packed with it so I wouldn't miss it. I also have some sponges in my sump that act as bubble traps in place of baffles (wish I would have done baffles!) that I could add to the HOB filter that will be in the QT with filter floss in it. Let me know what the consensus is on whether or not it is possible to add 10-15 lbs of rock and/or sponges from the DT today along with the newly mixed saltwater and than add a fish next weekend.
 
I am setting up a QT today in preparation for a new addition and I have a few questions regarding the cycle. In the past, I have always added a piece of shrimp to get an ammonia spike and just waited for the nitrogen cycle to complete. I am wondering if it is possible to add all newly mixed saltwater (15 gallon tank) and some fully cured live rock from my DT to have a biological filter in place right off the bat and forgo the normal cycle or at least cut the time by adding the rock. I can add any amount within reason, my DT and sump are quite packed with it so I wouldn't miss it. I also have some sponges in my sump that act as bubble traps in place of baffles (wish I would have done baffles!) that I could add to the HOB filter that will be in the QT with filter floss in it. Let me know what the consensus is on whether or not it is possible to add 10-15 lbs of rock and/or sponges from the DT today along with the newly mixed saltwater and than add a fish next weekend.

Hi
i would avoid putting rock in QT. if you can use the established sponges/filters from the main tank it would be better. LR will bring its own problems to QT which might be harder to control later on.
 
question... I have about 8lbs of extra liverock that's been sitting in my sump along with a filter (to collect bacteria)... Can i use water from my display tank water change and some of that rock to start a "cycled" permanent QT tank?
 
question... I have about 8lbs of extra liverock that's been sitting in my sump along with a filter (to collect bacteria)... Can i use water from my display tank water change and some of that rock to start a "cycled" permanent QT tank?


No rock or sand in a qt. You can use water from your DT and a filter that was soaking in your sump for a couple weeks.
 
ok awesome...i do have a filter that's been soaking for over a month now. Thanks!

If it's going to be a permanent QT throw an uncooked shrimp in there or feed it every day or so with fish food to help with the cycle. The bacteria in the filter and water will speed the cycle along.
 
Hi Bnumair,

i have a little bit of a crisis on hand with one of my prize fishes. I have a white tail bristletooth tang and he's been fine since i got him but for last couple of weeks he's been just hanging around swimming right in front of my mp40. He did not show any signs of anything and ate well. I was on vacation and i got back a day ago and last night i noticed bloches on his skin. Then late last night, i noticed he just basically fell to the ground barely moving his fins. I quickly netted him and put him in my QT tank which is cycled. He still just lay on the ground looking almost dead. Didn't know what else to do so i dosed the tank with 500mg of Cypro and also added another antibiotic that i dont remember the name of right now. I also added prazi pro. Well i left him there last night and i was sure to find him dead this morning. Well this morning, i was surprised to find him actually swimming around!! He looks like he has stuff on him but i think the meds helped. here is what he looks like:

Notice a black sport or something also on his upper lip. Should i continue daily cipro meds and prazi with 50% daily water changes?
 
Hard to tell or say what could have been the issue. But if there is internal parasite or disease and prazipro and antibiotics are working then I would continue to do so as per the manufacturer recommendation.
 
Well he's still alive but has not eaten since last Sunday. I'm in the process of acquiring some CP to start treatment with that. I also started lowering the salinity as of yesterday and that seems to be helping him breath easier.
 
Not eating and breathing heavy sounds like ich. Does it have any other signs of ich. Like scratching twitching etc?
 
Not eating and breathing heavy sounds like ich. Does it have any other signs of ich. Like scratching twitching etc?

Nope, just what i stated and very lethargic, it takes a lot of his energy just to keep himself up straight.

I finally was able to get CP so i just started this dose tonight so we'll see how it goes. He was doing a little better tonight because i lowered the salinity to about 1.010, he's swimming and breathing a bit easier. Could also be the Cipro and Septra that are helping.
 
Would Hagen Fluval Pre-Filter Media, 750 gram be sufficient media for a 55g quarantine to house 2/3 medium sized tangs? or do you have a recommendation on a specific ceramic media to use?

Thanks!
 
I had a few quick questions regarding an "emergency" QT. My wife doesn't want *another* tank set up, so no permanent QT for me. I'll simply be setting up a spare 10g tank whenever bringing home a fish.

When setting up a "temporary" QT like this:

1. Since it won't be cycled, how often and in what quantities should I expect to do water changes with 1-2 fish? I'll likely start the process with a couple 5 gallon buckets with the TTM and then this QT for observation to limit their time in this tank.

2. What is the best way to limit the speed at which ammonia accumulates? I see mentions of ceramic media, filters in sumps, dosing Prime, etc. What combination would you suggest? Is there any other way to make maintaining a temporary/emergency QT easier?
 
I had a few quick questions regarding an "emergency" QT. My wife doesn't want *another* tank set up, so no permanent QT for me. I'll simply be setting up a spare 10g tank whenever bringing home a fish.

When setting up a "temporary" QT like this:

1. Since it won't be cycled, how often and in what quantities should I expect to do water changes with 1-2 fish? I'll likely start the process with a couple 5 gallon buckets with the TTM and then this QT for observation to limit their time in this tank.
fish size and appetite is a factor, obviously; but the answer to your question depends mostly on how quickly ammonia builds up. the smaller the fish and the less you feed the fish the less ammonia will build up. also what matters is how often you are OK doing large water changes (time and $ factor). If you don't care about that part (which really would be so small for a 10g anyway), then you could do large 50% water changes daily if you really wanted, fish would be fine as long as salinity and temp matched. probably though all you would need to do is dose Prime or AmQuel every couple days and do large water changes every 4-5 days. This will keep ammonia in check just fine and you don't ever need a true 'cycle' to occur.

2. What is the best way to limit the speed at which ammonia accumulates? I see mentions of ceramic media, filters in sumps, dosing Prime, etc. What combination would you suggest? Is there any other way to make maintaining a temporary/emergency QT easier?
If you are OK using bacteria from your DT (meaning whatever you are QT'ing for isn't already in the DT), then the best bet, IMO/E, is to have a sponge filter that has been soaking in your DT for over 4 weeks to become your biological filter for the QT... works like a charm and is pretty much an instant cycle where ammonia shouldn't be a problem. I keep 2 running in my DT at all times just to be ready
 
Thank you for the response! Just a quick follow up:

1. So if I have the option of #2, then it renders my first question moot, correct, since #2 would always be preferable? Plus it would allow for less frequent waterchanges, less frequent/no dosing, and less maintenance over the course of the QT

2. For the sponges, are you just talking about a filter sponge that can be stuck in the back of a HOB? Something like this if I were using an AC?
 
Correct, if you can add an existing fully seeded biofilter to the tank right off the bat, then that is preferred. That sponge will work just fine as long as you are using the same HOB (or one that fits that sponge) on the QT as well.

I personally prefer these: Hikari Aquarium Solutions Bacto-Surge Foam Filter

Just my personal preference in QT's to use airpump's instead of HOB or Powerheads. Other options work just as well except when doing TTM.

Regardless, keep an eye out for ammonia the first week to make sure the fish aren't overpowering the biofilter.
 
While I understand the setup process...I have problems finding the room for it. My fish room is very small. I have made the best of the space that I have for my 5' 180 in wall.

So right now not real sure what to do about the QT tank setup. I fully agree that I need one as for I learned that lesson a long time ago.

Have a little space right below all of the APEX setup area but that's also kinda in the door way.

This was an old bar at the back of our living room I have converted to small fish room.

My two 55 gallon tanks are in the garage thought about putting the QT area out there as well....but it gets really hot in the garage here in Texas.
 
There doesn't seem to be any space in the fish room as far I can see of the pic. You can take it to the garage but will have to invest into a chiller.
 
Bnumair; Thanks for the superb thread and being so helpful.

I have a few questions for you. I have a 150G DT and 2 40G Breeders QT tanks running full time. I had a Kole Tang and Flame Angel in 1 QT Tank together, 4 weeks no signs of anything. Put them in the DT after 4 weeks, after a few days signs of ICH and now my Kole Tang looks like he has Brook.

I caught the Kole Tang and put him back in one of the QT Tanks, I will catch the Flame Angel as soon as possible and put him in the same tank as the Kole Tang as well. I am treating the Kole with ParaGuard, for the Brook and then after this treatment I will treat with Cupramine. My question regarding this situation, I was planning on treating with the Paraguard until the signs of Brook are gone, and then how long should I wait or do I need to wait before beginning the Cupramine treatment? Do I need to do any water changes or put carbon to remove the medication?

My next situation, I was planning on getting an Achilles Tang, and an Xmas Islands Emperor Angel. I was thinking it would be best to put them in the same QT tank which is the vacant one at the moment, and treat first with 4 weeks of Cupramine and then 2 weeks of Prazi Pro, and I was planning on leaving the tank fallow for 9-10 weeks.

Any suggestions or things that you think I should do differently?

What happens if I get the achilles first and then the Emperor a few days later, will it be an issue? Should I begin the cupramine treatment when they both are in the tank together?

Sorry for all the questions at once,

Thanks,
Arman
 
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