Agree. Bio spiral or better yet seachem stability can start a tank fast.
Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
Agree. Bio spiral or better yet seachem stability can start a tank fast.
bat21
New member
My dt is 66 gallons. Would a 5 gallon be large enough for a qt? My wife and I live in a one bedroom apartment in new york city, so space is a major issue.
There's a spot that would work perfectly for a 5g, but a 10g would basically require rearranging the apartment, which my wife is understandably against.
The largest fish I might ever get would be a 3-4 inch wrasse.
Can I get away with a 5g?
There's a spot that would work perfectly for a 5g, but a 10g would basically require rearranging the apartment, which my wife is understandably against.
The largest fish I might ever get would be a 3-4 inch wrasse.
Can I get away with a 5g?
yes its possible but smaller the tank better your husbandry skills. will require more attention and less chance to recover if disaster strikes. but all manageable and possible.
Good luck and safe reefing
rishu_pepper
New member
Hi I have a few questions on setting up my QT.
Currently my fish are just finished their TTM today. I have a 10g with new saltwater ready to go as a QT. Fish are all in there now.
My DT is running fallow now (a new tank but the rocks from previous tank were ich infected since my hippo had ich when we had the old tank/rocks, the rocks were transferred to the new tank). The fallow will end in one month.
With that in mind, how do I seed the new QT? I assume I can't just put ceramic media in the DT sump since there's a possibility that the water is icky?
Assuming I cannot do the seeding, is it okay to just do frequent WC to keep ammonia down and water clean? If so, how often and how much?
I don't plan to use Cupramine. Yay or nay?
Currently there is no HOB filter, but I am willing to go buy one if necessary. Which one is recommended for a 10g? Do I put anything in there, other than filter floss?
Thanks for the help.
Currently my fish are just finished their TTM today. I have a 10g with new saltwater ready to go as a QT. Fish are all in there now.
My DT is running fallow now (a new tank but the rocks from previous tank were ich infected since my hippo had ich when we had the old tank/rocks, the rocks were transferred to the new tank). The fallow will end in one month.
With that in mind, how do I seed the new QT? I assume I can't just put ceramic media in the DT sump since there's a possibility that the water is icky?
Assuming I cannot do the seeding, is it okay to just do frequent WC to keep ammonia down and water clean? If so, how often and how much?
I don't plan to use Cupramine. Yay or nay?
Currently there is no HOB filter, but I am willing to go buy one if necessary. Which one is recommended for a 10g? Do I put anything in there, other than filter floss?
Thanks for the help.
if I were you I'd take a gallon bucket of fresh mixed saltwater get a hob filter to run on it and add amonia, heater, and possibly a bacteria in a bottle type product or a tiny bit of rock rubble from a trusted source, if there is one and let it cycle. This way you could dodge such frequent WCs the later half or so of fallow period. Just my .02
First off fallow time frame is minimum 10 weeks. not sure if you are left with 4 weeks or you are only running fallow for 4 weeks.
Seeding is easy, try seachem stability and or get some ceramic media from a friends tank. if you cant seed then yes water changes will the other best option. i would check for ammonia 2-3 times a day and if anything registers on ammonia do water change. how much? well if you do 50% water change ammonia will decrease by 50% and ammonia at any level is lethal for fish so be prepared to do large sums of water changes.
If fish are already through tank transfer method and its done right and fish dont show any signs of disease then no need to subject them to copper.
any HOB rated for 30 gal or plus will do the job. i would leave carbon out.
Good luck and safe reefing.
rishu_pepper
New member
Oh I meant I am down to the last four weeks.
I will try to ask a local reefer for a bag of trustworthy ceramic media seeded. At the moment, I will keep a close eye on ammonia and do necessary WC as needed.
Thank you for the advice.
Spar
New member
There is no such thing as a trustworthy wet item from another persons tank. If it didnt source from YOUR qt procedures, assume it is tainted. Just use a bacteria in a bottle product, easy and done.
rishu_pepper
New member
What is the exact step? Add Seachem Stability each day and monitor Am/Nitrite/Nitrate and do necessary WC? Will I still need to put ceramic media into the HOB filter?
Thank you
Washout
New member
Heya RC,
I wanted to see if I could get some feedback on my QT/Receiving tank. Mine’s set up a bit differently than most because I wanted to possibly eventually use it as a breeding tank for my cardinals and possibly a pair of clowns. I actually set it up with a sump for a filter instead of a HoB. I won’t be using copper in this tank as I am a firm believer that building a strong immune system in a fish is a better solution for treating ich.
25 gallon display
20 gallon tall sump, 3 chambers (filtration, holding, return)
New rock for filtration
Being that I was using new dry rock for filtration I thought it would be a good idea to cycle it for a longer period than normal. It’s been going for 2 months now, I removed what was left of my shrimp a few days ago, and last night did a 15 gallon water change. Levels seem good now, so I think I am going to add a pair of clowns possibly today to it, or should I perhaps give it a bit more time? Honestly I am not sure how long it takes dry rock to properly cycle.
I wanted to see if I could get some feedback on my QT/Receiving tank. Mine’s set up a bit differently than most because I wanted to possibly eventually use it as a breeding tank for my cardinals and possibly a pair of clowns. I actually set it up with a sump for a filter instead of a HoB. I won’t be using copper in this tank as I am a firm believer that building a strong immune system in a fish is a better solution for treating ich.
25 gallon display
20 gallon tall sump, 3 chambers (filtration, holding, return)
New rock for filtration
Being that I was using new dry rock for filtration I thought it would be a good idea to cycle it for a longer period than normal. It’s been going for 2 months now, I removed what was left of my shrimp a few days ago, and last night did a 15 gallon water change. Levels seem good now, so I think I am going to add a pair of clowns possibly today to it, or should I perhaps give it a bit more time? Honestly I am not sure how long it takes dry rock to properly cycle.
Spar
New member
What is the exact step? Add Seachem Stability each day and monitor Am/Nitrite/Nitrate and do necessary WC? Will I still need to put ceramic media into the HOB filter?
Thank you
There are instructions on the bottle of what to do, but correct, you dose a certain amount up front and then dose every day or couple of days. the important dose is the first. the bacteria will make its way on to rocks and other surfaces (including glass) and start its work consuming ammonia and nitrite.
definitely monitor ammonia (don't bother with nitrite or nitrate) and do WC's as necessary. you can buy a nifty suction cup ammonia tester made by Seachem to give you a constant and easy reading. water changes will be your friend until things stabilize, but that should happen very quick.
no need for the ceramic media. but won't hurt anything for the QT.
... and I am assuming that seachem products are in canada also, but regardless, any bacteria-in-a-bottle product will work for you. there are many brands out on the market.
rishu_pepper
New member
Cool, I will buy a bottle of Stability tomorrow and a Ammonia Badge as well.
With this setup, can I keep it up permanently? As in, after these fishes go in, when I buy new fish I can just put them in this QT?
Spar
New member
yep, not a problem at all. just remember to feed the bacteria when there are no fish in there. just a little fish food here-and-there (1/4 of what would if fish were there). i keep a 10g running permanently for new non-fish, even when nothing is in there.
rishu_pepper
New member
Awesome, that's good to know! Thanks so much for walking me through this. It was a bit daunting setting it up for the first time with so much different literature on QTing.
Should I use PraziPro with this batch? In relation to this, can Prime and PraziPro go together in the same tank?
prazipro and prime will fine to use in same tank as long as there are no other medicine being used specially copper based.
rockerboi09
New member
Setting up a new QT
Setting up a new QT
My tank has been set up for around 2 years and I've never quarantined. I am looking at adding quite a few more fish soon and definitely want to set up a permanent QT first. I have a question regarding this first. I am still reading through the thread so sorry if it has been answered.
When I first receive the fish I will be doing the tank transfer method to eradicate ich. Every 3 days I will move the fish to a new tank and on the 2nd and 4th transfer I will be treating with PraziPro. Once the tank transfer is complete, I will move my fish into QT to observe and fatten up.
My question is regarding the actual QT. My thoughts are that I would use a 30 or 40 gallon breeder for the QT with a HOB with biowheels. I was also wanting to add a 55 gallon sump to the system. The sump would be used to keep a larger water volume and maybe keep a couple/few damsels (or less aggressive fish in case I need to separate 2 tangs during QT) in to keep the QT cycled at all times.
If I set it up this way, I would make it so that if I need to treat the fish in the display with a medication, I will just close off the sump and treat the display until the medication has been removed. The HOB filter will insure that the bio filter is still in place during that time. Will this work?
Also, I was wondering if this does work, could I keep rock and sand in the sump as I do not plan on using copper at all? Could I also keep macros growing in there to feed to tangs as I QT them? Thank you in advance.
Setting up a new QT
My tank has been set up for around 2 years and I've never quarantined. I am looking at adding quite a few more fish soon and definitely want to set up a permanent QT first. I have a question regarding this first. I am still reading through the thread so sorry if it has been answered.
When I first receive the fish I will be doing the tank transfer method to eradicate ich. Every 3 days I will move the fish to a new tank and on the 2nd and 4th transfer I will be treating with PraziPro. Once the tank transfer is complete, I will move my fish into QT to observe and fatten up.
My question is regarding the actual QT. My thoughts are that I would use a 30 or 40 gallon breeder for the QT with a HOB with biowheels. I was also wanting to add a 55 gallon sump to the system. The sump would be used to keep a larger water volume and maybe keep a couple/few damsels (or less aggressive fish in case I need to separate 2 tangs during QT) in to keep the QT cycled at all times.
If I set it up this way, I would make it so that if I need to treat the fish in the display with a medication, I will just close off the sump and treat the display until the medication has been removed. The HOB filter will insure that the bio filter is still in place during that time. Will this work?
Also, I was wondering if this does work, could I keep rock and sand in the sump as I do not plan on using copper at all? Could I also keep macros growing in there to feed to tangs as I QT them? Thank you in advance.
Last edited:
Spar
New member
Your plan sounds good for your TTM tanks and process.
Regarding the permanent QT, your plan will work with everything you mentioned including having sand and rocks (only a worry for copper and/or if you plan to do TTM using the tank, which you are considering neither). Don't bother with the Damsels (mean and likely will bother your QT'ing fish) - you can just feed your tank fish food to keep it cycled. Macros will be great for the QT.
Regarding the permanent QT, your plan will work with everything you mentioned including having sand and rocks (only a worry for copper and/or if you plan to do TTM using the tank, which you are considering neither). Don't bother with the Damsels (mean and likely will bother your QT'ing fish) - you can just feed your tank fish food to keep it cycled. Macros will be great for the QT.
rockerboi09
New member
Will having the rock or sand keep the water column cleaner for longer? Would it be better for me to occupy the space in my sump with a fluidized bed with K1 Kaldnes and still having a HOB filter on the back of the top QT, or possibly just having HOB filters on both tanks? Also, maybe instead of a Damsel I could keep cardinals or mollies?
Last edited:
Spar
New member
Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
Rock and sand will help yea but you really dont need the sand unless you just like it. Bare bottoms are the standard for QTs, even if permanent. You want to be able to quickly do large water changes and/or complete scrub downs in the case something goes wrong. Id recommend sticking with just rock and the HOBs to keep it as simple as possible.
I just got a nice HOB refrugium for chaeto that i like for my permanent QT.
Again fish just aren't necessary, but if you prefer to always have something in there, then cardinals or another nonaggressive and nonterritorial fish are better. You could always separate them since you have a sump if you see anyone bothering eachother.
Rock and sand will help yea but you really dont need the sand unless you just like it. Bare bottoms are the standard for QTs, even if permanent. You want to be able to quickly do large water changes and/or complete scrub downs in the case something goes wrong. Id recommend sticking with just rock and the HOBs to keep it as simple as possible.
I just got a nice HOB refrugium for chaeto that i like for my permanent QT.
Again fish just aren't necessary, but if you prefer to always have something in there, then cardinals or another nonaggressive and nonterritorial fish are better. You could always separate them since you have a sump if you see anyone bothering eachother.
bnumair: I'm going to start a new 20 gal qt ( my last one that was permanent I converted to nano......lol )
I was thinking to take a Poly Pad and put it under my return pump in the sump of my DT. It will reduce hum , take out toxins and was hoping " gather needed bacteria for the new QT. Would I be correct in this thinking or know ?
I was thinking to take a Poly Pad and put it under my return pump in the sump of my DT. It will reduce hum , take out toxins and was hoping " gather needed bacteria for the new QT. Would I be correct in this thinking or know ?
Similar threads
