Hair algae problem

[talon4x4]

I have been so busy at work that I have slacked on the tank. Now I have a crazy hair algae problem. I have a feeling part of it was because I needed new lights, which I have replaced. I spent several hours pulling and sucking out a ton of it. There is still quite a bit that I just can't get to. I'm looking for suggestions on the best clean up crew to get this under control. Are turbos going to be my best bet?? If so, does anyone know if any local stores have the true turbos??

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[S2minute]

Don't get Turbos. They are a waste of money. Most sold come from cooler waters and slowly cook at the temps we keep our reefs at. I went through the same thing with my tank. Neglect due to the fact i'm busy most of the time building my home PLUS my old MH fixture was in serious need of repair and replacement.
What your going to have to do is become super agressive on your husbandry. That means pruning away GHA an inch or longer and maybe even using a stiff brush to get it off. Use a filter sock(s) during maint. Syphon your sump and your entire tank botom if it's bare. Change out 10% of your net water volume each week. Buy some Red- legged hermits based on your tank size but, don't go crazy. If you know your light fixture is in need of replacement or at least the bulbs than do it ASAP. Poor lighting is a major factor in growth of GHA.
Cut back on your feeding. I feed my fish once a day. BE PATIENT . That's your best weapon. I recently upgraded from a MH fixture to an all LED DIY Fixture. The difference was AMAZING. Whatever GHA i had left immeadately started to die off and the tank colors look stunning. Even the fish and corals are reacting well to it. Also, each maint. or even 2-3x a week get in there with a powerhead and blow out your rock. You'll be amazed at how much Ditritus builds up in the cracks. Good luck!. Try www.reefcleaners.com i've had great dealings with them.

 

[The J Man]

Spot on advice above.

Also, each maint. or even 2-3x a week get in there with a powerhead and blow out your rock. You'll be amazed at how much Ditritus builds up in the cracks.

Powerhead removal of detritus is extremely helpful because the HA feeds off the junk it traps.

Hang in there, like everyone says, it won't be 100% overnight.

 

[tmz]

Prune it siphon it, keep detritus buildup to a minimum ,reduce PO4 and keep it low and it will wane. Turbos do an ice job on it but are large and knock stuff around.. Only some varieties of "Mexican" turbos are from cooler Pacific waters and even those have lasted quite a while in my tank and are pretty good on red turf algae.

 

[tmz]

I would not discount the turbo snail even the "mexican turbo" which lives in cooler water but not that cool than the others. It is one of the only effective grazers of red turf algae I know of. It usually has visible stripes.
Here are a few relevant links on that variant which is from the Sea of Cortez:

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/SwSnails/MexicanTurbo.php


Note the temps for the gulf of Caifornia in this one:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gulf_of_California




http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/SwSnails/MexicanTurbo.php

 

[Seaweed Brain]

I've used sea hares in the past and they mowed it all down pretty quick. Then I just kept up on my water changes and regular maintence and it never came back. Not yet anyway. If you do go with a sea hare though you have to make sure you have food available for it after it eats up all the hair algae or it will eventually starve and die. I returned mine back to the lfs after it ate up my hair algae to avoid it starving out.

 

[Jstn]

There is also raising your mg with kent tech m mg supplement. For some reason an impurity in their mg eradicates hair algae. I'm not sure why, seems like some voodoo science but I tried it once and it worked. The key is to slowly elevate your mg to 1500ppm and keep it there for a few weeks, the only side effect u noticed was my snails being very slow and sluggish, almost as if they were "drunk".

 

[tmz]

I've not heard that TechM does anything or hair algae per se. Most report it's effects specifically on bryopsis which can do ok in lower PO4 than other green nusiance algaes.Personally, I'm skeptical and chasing an unknown impurity in the hope it kills a specific type of algae without harming other things is just not for me.

 

[Jstn]

Like I said its voodoo science, but it work for me, the guy asked for help and I gave him an idea.

 

[SquidwardTentacles]

With all the chatter this week on Chaeto, I'm surprised no one offered that idea yet. Chaeto will feed on what your nuisance algae is and help.

 

[talon4x4]

The bulbs were replaced last weekend. I also started using my filter socks again, changed every other day. I'm also running ROX carbon and their GFO. I have 3 Koralia powerheads in the tank (two #3's and a #4). I also only feed once a day, a mixture of spectrum pellets and Omega flakes. Feeding is done via an auto feeder.

The sea hare sounds like a good idea. Could probably trade him away after. If I can't find one I'll grab some turbos and hermits and hope for the best. Any thoughts on how many for a 90gal DT and a 40gal sump? I used to have chaeto that grew like crazy. It eventually got covered in HA and died out. I also had several mangroves, which I sprayed with RODI water every day. After a year or so I did notice some salt buildup on the leaves (even though I sprayed) and decided to wipe the leaves off. Worst thing I could have done. They all died after doing that!! I guess some amount of salt is supposed to be on the leaves?!?

Its funny how quickly this stuff can appear and take over but how long it takes for it to leave. It just kills me because I never had a HA problem before. It was always contained to the sump. I think the old bulbs are what really did me in.

Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions!!

 

[S2minute]

Cheato

Cheato

With all the chatter this week on Chaeto, I'm surprised no one offered that idea yet. Chaeto will feed on what your nuisance algae is and help.

BTW, isen't Cheato supposed to have strong light to grow?? Reason i'm saying is that i have a 20 gal fuge attached to the multi-tank system with a basketball size of Cheato in it and it's lights haven't been working in a long time. I just threw on a pair of "Nano Glo" leds and noticed the cheato has not reduced in size at all.

 

[S2minute]

Turbos

Turbos

eh

 

[S2minute]

Turbos

Turbos

double post

 

[SquidwardTentacles]

BTW, isen't Cheato supposed to have strong light to grow?? Reason i'm saying is that i have a 20 gal fuge attached to the multi-tank system with a basketball size of Cheato in it and it's lights haven't been working in a long time. I just threw on a pair of "Nano Glo" leds and noticed the cheato has not reduced in size at all.

For it to grow, it needs good light and flow. You want it to grow as that's what takes in the nutrients that nuisance algae also consume.

 

[S2minute]

Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo Taxonomy: Zebra Turbo Snail – Zebra Turbo belongs to the Kingdom Animalia, Phylum Mollusca, Class Gastropoda, Family Turbinidae and Genus Turbo.

Scientific names: The scientific name of Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is Turbo species.

Other common names: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is also commonly known Turbo Grazer and Zebra Striped Turbo Snail.

Origin or natural range: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo originates from a warm water region, Belize.

Size: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo may grow up to a diameter of approximately six inches.

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Aggression: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is non-aggressive towards the marine aquarium members.

Compatibility: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is reef compatible.

Venom status: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is non-poisonous in nature.

Morphology:
•The shell of Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is shaped like a top or a turban and is banded with Black and Yellow colors. The shell may however, appear Green in color owing to the growth of Green Coralline Algae on its surface.
•The mantle of Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is large and fleshy and regularly secretes shell to increase its size in order to keep up with the body growth.
Growth enabling environment in your marine aquarium:

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•Aquarium set-up:
•Your marine aquarium should have enough Live Rocks and rocks for Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo to search food upon and to hide in.
•Give ample roaming space to Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo in your reef tank.
•Temperature of water: Seventy-two to seventy-eight degrees Fahrenheit.
•Specific gravity of water: 1.023 to 1.025.
•pH of water: 8.10 to 8.40.
•Illumination: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo does not require lighting in the marine aquarium it inhabits.
•Acclimation: Slowly acclimate Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo to your reef tank’s environment using Slow Drip Method. The slow acclimation process needs a minimum time period of two hours.
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•Food content: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo mainly eats algae, especially Hair Algae.
•Supplements:
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•In case there is not ample food for Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo in your marine aquarium, supplement the snail’s meal with dried seaweed.


• Benefits: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is an algae eater and therefore, keeps your marine aquarium free of algal infestation.
Care:•Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo is easy to maintain.
•Sudden fluctuations in the pH and the temperature of your marine aquarium may give pH shock and temperature shock, respectively, to Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo therein.
•Copper and Nitrates in any form in your marine aquarium may prove lethal for Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo in it.
Caution: Zebra Turbo Snail - Zebra Turbo grows to a considerable size and may disturb and crush the corals and rocks in your marine aquarium. Therefore, keep the snail in a big sized aquarium.