Hal
New member
So after moving in to my new house I'm ready now to build my basement fish equipment room. This is my third house since I started keeping saltwater fish, and I've had a basement fish equipment room in each of my two previous houses. * I cannot emphasize how much easier it is to do things in the basement vs under the stand, but that's probably obvious.
I'm going to take the existing space under the basement stairs, a la Harry Potter, and enlarge it to about 10 x 12. Of course, this space will still have the back of the descending stairs in it, so headroom will be a little tight in one corner.
I've had a few floods in my day so I'm stealing Nineball's idea to put a 3 inch of dam around the perimeter of the room. Based on the square footage it on should hold around 200 gallons. I'm also planning to put in a utility pump that will sit on the floor and pump into a bathroom drain. The utility pump will drain all but 1/4 inch, which I can get with a wet/dry vac.
Here's the space before we start. "We" is myself and my retired dad, who's the most handy person I know. God bless him, as he knows how to build just about anything. I'd be Youtubing for hours without him. :reading:
You can see a line of masking tape on the floor that bisects the door. That line of tape represents the back of my fish tank on the first floor. As you can see, my tank runs out into the room. I'm very lucky in that just behind the door is a steel I-beam that runs underneath the left third of my tank.
You can also see a 3/4 inch piece of plywood that is screwed and glued across the bottom of 3 joists. This stiffens the joists considerable (we did the math) to prevent floor sag.
Lastly, because of where I live, we have "heaving soil". Essentially it's a special type of clay that expands when it gets wet. This can be a real problem for basement floors, causing heaves. For this reason, all of the walls in the basement hang from the joists, with a gap between the baseboard of the wall and the actual floor. The 2x4 blocks that you see should have been removed by the builder to create an air gap. Then a 60d spike or equivalent is shot through the baseboard of the wall and into the baseboard on the floor. If the floor heaves, the baseboard on the floor will push on the point of the spike, and force the head of the spike up so that it emerges from the baseboard at the bottom of the wall. This way there the floor can lift without it buckling the wall.
I'm going to take the existing space under the basement stairs, a la Harry Potter, and enlarge it to about 10 x 12. Of course, this space will still have the back of the descending stairs in it, so headroom will be a little tight in one corner.
I've had a few floods in my day so I'm stealing Nineball's idea to put a 3 inch of dam around the perimeter of the room. Based on the square footage it on should hold around 200 gallons. I'm also planning to put in a utility pump that will sit on the floor and pump into a bathroom drain. The utility pump will drain all but 1/4 inch, which I can get with a wet/dry vac.
Here's the space before we start. "We" is myself and my retired dad, who's the most handy person I know. God bless him, as he knows how to build just about anything. I'd be Youtubing for hours without him. :reading:
You can see a line of masking tape on the floor that bisects the door. That line of tape represents the back of my fish tank on the first floor. As you can see, my tank runs out into the room. I'm very lucky in that just behind the door is a steel I-beam that runs underneath the left third of my tank.
You can also see a 3/4 inch piece of plywood that is screwed and glued across the bottom of 3 joists. This stiffens the joists considerable (we did the math) to prevent floor sag.
Lastly, because of where I live, we have "heaving soil". Essentially it's a special type of clay that expands when it gets wet. This can be a real problem for basement floors, causing heaves. For this reason, all of the walls in the basement hang from the joists, with a gap between the baseboard of the wall and the actual floor. The 2x4 blocks that you see should have been removed by the builder to create an air gap. Then a 60d spike or equivalent is shot through the baseboard of the wall and into the baseboard on the floor. If the floor heaves, the baseboard on the floor will push on the point of the spike, and force the head of the spike up so that it emerges from the baseboard at the bottom of the wall. This way there the floor can lift without it buckling the wall.
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